Worksharp questions

Monofletch

Monofletch

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Jan 14, 2010
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I recently acquired an original Worksharp. I have watch a few Youtube videos but I still have questions.
1st- Do you push the blade all the way down in the guide?
2nd- How do you keep the grind even when you get closer to the tip? I kept slipping off the side wall and the tip wanted to nose dive. I did turn the machine around to use it in the other direction to support the tip. It worked, but seems lime a pain. Any tips or tricks for that?
Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated.
 
I used the Ken Onion model for several years, and was very proficient with it. You don't want to "push" the blade down. Using only the weight of the blade is proper use. Keeping an even bevel is done by raising the back of the knife to keep the belt followig the belly of the knife. And finally, you don't want to pull the knife off the belt. Don't let the knife tip "fall" off the edge of the belt. Rather, you want to either stop the motor, or raise the knife straight up off the belt, BEFORE the knife tip gets to the edge of the belt.
 
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i have the ken onion version, its annoying, so i bought a KME and i havent looked back. probably going to sell the worksharp eventually.

its marketed as easy, but takes lots of skill and practice, as if you dont, you will get scratched blades, uneven convex grinds from side to side and rounded tips. not to mention it only does convex.

i would recommend honing your skills with some really really cheap knives and butter knives.
 
Works fine if you want to re-curve all your blades!I wouldn't use it on a blade I cared about keeping long. Mine sits unused. I went back to freehanding. Progress is not always better.--KV
 
I started with a Rough Rider and madw it screaming sharp with a pointy tip. It was pretty easy. I then progressed to my kitchen "butcher" knife. I got it sharp, but not as sharp as the 1st. I figured there would be a learning curve.
 
Can't help all that much, I use the Ken Onion model with the Blade Grinding Attachment. The BGA essentially turns the unit into a small belt sander that works wonderfully. I'd add that piece if you can. I just used mine yesterday to touch up a Slysz Bowie; looking at the knife closely, you can't even tell it was on a grinder. I basically started midway through the belt progression since it was only a touch up, finishing up with a worn out 12k grit belt with green compound. I then used a standard strop with green compound. Worked wonderfully.
 
I just sharpened my Manix 2 XL. It went very well. Even grind, almost mirror, and really bad ass sharp. I know I have a lot to learn though.
 
Monofletch said:
I just sharpened my Manix 2 XL. It went very well. Even grind, almost mirror, and really bad ass sharp. I know I have a lot to learn though.
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Congrats! Glad you had that level of success, sir. It's great when things pull together like that. My standard MO (unless I have a chipped or otherwise damaged blade) is to sharpen on the Worksharp; I keep notes on the last time I sharpened, that gives me a good idea of how coarse in the grit progression I have to start at; after I finish my grit progression, I use the SharpMaker, typically fine and ultra-fine rods. Then I move back to the WorkSharp, old 12k belt with green compound, and do something between buffing and sharpening. I then move to manual stropping with a leather strop and green compound. By the time I'm done, I have something that I can use on my chin to shave.

I find using the WorkSharp to be quite enjoyable, peaceful, and relaxing.
 
I just sharpened my deer processing kitchen knife with little or no issues. I doubt I will sharpen my 204p Military or my Benchmade 808 on this thing, but for my beaters it is perfect!!
 
Mo2 said:
i have the ken onion version, its annoying, so i bought a KME and i havent looked back. probably going to sell the worksharp eventually.

its marketed as easy, but takes lots of skill and practice, as if you dont, you will get scratched blades, uneven convex grinds from side to side and rounded tips. not to mention it only does convex.

i would recommend honing your skills with some really really cheap knives and butter knives.
Click to expand...

In my experience, it takes very little skill and practice compared to, say, a Sharpmaker (which I am terrible with). When using it free angle, no scratches at all. Uneven convex grinds are due to the incompetence of the user, not the device (same goes for rounded rips). Lastly, you can get a flat, and even hollow grind on the edge with this. Though, you'd have to open your mind as to how, since the advertised method obviously will only get you the convex, which isn't too bad (can whittle hair).

At the end of the day, if you are inept at using belt sanders, you won't have a good time. But if you intuitively understand how they work, you can easily get a razor edge on your knives with the worksharp.

For the OP: I always start with the fine grit, any less would remove way too much steel on anything but a machete. Once you have an even grind (can tell with naked eye), then you can move on to the micro mesh. After that, some honing belt, and you are done. I don't use the guides as instructed in the manual, I just freehand it on the sander, with the blade resting against the top of the guide to stay straight. I also always sharpen with the belt moving off of the edge, never onto the edge.
 
That is correct. I have not touched the green (course) belts yet. I use the 220 and micro mesh and micro mesh with green compound.
 
Cutlover said:
In my experience, it takes very little skill and practice compared to, say, a Sharpmaker (which I am terrible with). When using it free angle, no scratches at all. Uneven convex grinds are due to the incompetence of the user, not the device (same goes for rounded rips). Lastly, you can get a flat, and even hollow grind on the edge with this. Though, you'd have to open your mind as to how, since the advertised method obviously will only get you the convex, which isn't too bad (can whittle hair).

At the end of the day, if you are inept at using belt sanders, you won't have a good time. But if you intuitively understand how they work, you can easily get a razor edge on your knives with the worksharp.
Click to expand...

Partially agree. I think that the Sharpmaker is easier to learn and use, but keep in mind that I use the WorkSharp with the Blade Grinding Attachment. I think the SharpMaker is as easy as it gets.

I will absolutely agree that if you get using belt sanders, the WorkSharp will be easy for you. No question about that, I love the variable speed, the easy tension adjustment, the lack of platens to heat up and retain more and more heat, thereby increasing the risk of applying too much heat to the blade...in many respects, the WorkSharp is a 'safe' belt grinder.
 
I have the kows and like it.

I am curious though for the more professional users than I, what would your normal belt progressions be for a touch up (not a damaged knife or regrind), how fast do you run it and strokes per side?

Realizing that the type of steel plays a lot into this. Right now I am sharpening 1095, M390 and SG2
 
I used the Micro Mesh MX belts. For a basic sharpening, I would use 400, 600, 800, 1200. Sometimes only the last couple.

When I was doing a full reprofile, I would start with the 180, then 240 and so on.

The MX belts are not measured in standard AO "grit". For instance, I believe the MX1200 us equivalent to approx 8000grit.
 
With all of us Worksharp owners on this thread, I feel like the KOWS have come home. (Groan)
 
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