WorkSharp vs. HF vs. Kalamazoo vs. ?

MVF · Oct 31, 2010

Yeah, sorry, another one of these threads, but it seems like the more I read about these individually, the more confused I get. I know that there's a world of difference between the Kalamazoo 1"x42" and the WorkSharp, but since I'd be using them for exactly the same thing- sharpening knives- they are both in the running for my next sharpener.

I think I'm a pretty typical BF sharpener- I have a few stones (cheap diamond from HF), some strops (black and green compound from BRKT), a SharpMaker from about 25 yrs ago, and recently picked up an EdgePro. I can get a pretty good edge- shaving easily, but not tree topping. In that regard, the EdgePro has been a bit of a disappointment, but I'm sure with more practice, I would get there.

My issues are: 1. That I keep thinking how much faster and easier it would be with a powered belt, and 2. My convex knives (Fallkniven and BRKT) and the fact that I like convex edges.

The WorkSharp almost seemed like the answer, although I have some concerns about the belt speed, which also happens to be my concern with the HF 1"x30". That's what led me to deciding to save up for the Kalamazoo- according to the specs I've been able to find, it runs about 1800 fpm compared to around 3000 fpm for the HF and I think somewhere around that for the WorkSharp. The prices are HF = $40, WorkSharp = $70, Kalamazoo = $230, so there's a considerable price difference- but I'd only have to screw up one knife to make that not worth it!

So, please, those of you with some experience, what would you do, and why? My collection runs the gamut from large choppers and machetes to small multi-blade folders. What tips would you give someone just starting on "power sharpening"? I know about starting on cheap knives (I've actually got quite a store of old butter knives to practice with), but how do you set/keep angles? Or do you?

TIA, Mike

230grains · Oct 31, 2010

My first belt sander was the HF 1x30. I upgraded to the kalamazoo 1sm. It's a world of difference, tracks wonderfully, great variety of belts. I'd go ahead and just buy the 1x42.

I just posted these pics in another thread but these edges (and satin finishes) were all done on the KM 1x42.

Captain Ron · Oct 31, 2010

Get the kalamazoo and use a paper wheel to finish the blades best setup you can get. The kalamazoo is very well built machine perfect for sharpening. Do not worry about the blade getting hot as long as you keep the blade moving you will be fine.

230grains · Oct 31, 2010

Captain Ron said:
Get the kalamazoo and use a paper wheel to finish the blades best setup you can get. The kalamazoo is very well built machine perfect for sharpening. Do not worry about the blade getting hot as long as you keep the blade moving you will be fine.

I don't see the point of finishing with paper wheels. I own paper wheels, I no longer use them since buying my first belt sander. I can get my knives a hell of a lot sharper on my 1x42 using finishing belts than I can on paper wheels.

cbwx34 · Oct 31, 2010

A lot overlook the Viel Belt Sander. You can get a 1750 motor (which puts it around 1300rpm with its pulley setup) fairly cheap, runs smooth, and you can set it vertical or horizontal without any modifications. Way better than the HF, especially for sharpening IMO.

cbw

Captain Ron · Oct 31, 2010

With the belt sander you have options I like the edges I get with paper wheels for finishing plus it is very sharp and fast and I have better luck with the paper wheels than going through end less grits of sand paper and leather. As the old saying says there is more than one way to skin a cat.

What ever works for you.

MVF · Oct 31, 2010

Thanks for the replies so far, please keep them coming.

230 Grains-What were your issues with the HF that make you say the 1sm is worth spending over 5 times as much for? That's really the way I'm leaning, but I'd sure like to feel justified in spending so much more.

Just so this doesn't turn into another paper wheel debate, please stick with belt sanders. My main concern is with convex edges and the wheels would seem to be the opposite.

How about some tips for getting started- do you use any kind of jigs or rests? Is it just throw some knives on there and learn by doing? 230Grains, your edges look just as precise as anything I've seen come of an EdgePro- is that freehand?

changeofseasons · Oct 31, 2010

I started with a Viel S5 and have never regreted it. I can sharpen convex abovr the platen to convex or on the platen for a V grind. Viel even makes an ok jig for v grinds.

230grains · Nov 1, 2010

MVF said:
Thanks for the replies so far, please keep them coming.

230 Grains-What were your issues with the HF that make you say the 1sm is worth spending over 5 times as much for? That's really the way I'm leaning, but I'd sure like to feel justified in spending so much more.

Just so this doesn't turn into another paper wheel debate, please stick with belt sanders. My main concern is with convex edges and the wheels would seem to be the opposite.

How about some tips for getting started- do you use any kind of jigs or rests? Is it just throw some knives on there and learn by doing? 230Grains, your edges look just as precise as anything I've seen come of an EdgePro- is that freehand?

The HF was a good investment for me, it did what I wanted it to to an extent, but it is very simply put, a very low budget hobbyist sander. That said, the belt tracking SUCKED, and without the ability to have adjustable tension, belts would become overstretched and become useless. It's best to remove the side safety shields for easy belt switching, but when the belts would become loose, they would just fly off. It would become very annoying when you'd get towards the tips too, it had a bad habit of knocking them off a bit as the belts aged. My motor just died randomly one day.

The Kalamazoo is a very nice piece of equipment of very good quality. It has adjustable tension which is great AND IMO the only real way to be able to properly use a leather belt on it. As you use the leather, it stretches a bit. Once stretched on the HF, its as good as useless, but with the KM, it adjusts. 1x42 belts stay sharp longer as well. It may seem like a hell of a price jump, but IMO if you buy the HF and like it, you'll buy the KM down the road anyway. I wish I just started with it.

As for my edges, i've had a lot of practice, when I started, they were junk, and i've come to improve. If you visually compare my edges to an EP, they will pass the test, but the EP in the end will be slightly more "precise" as they're a guided system and I freehand.

I use a variety of belts starting anywhere from 80 to 400 depending on the knife. I don't recommend starting at 80 however as you can really destroy a blade like that if you dont know what you're doing. Use light pressure and keep the blade moving. Practice on cheap knives and follow the shape of the blade. I don't use any jigs or clamps.