Worksharp vs. Lansky guided system

S

solitaire

Joined
Dec 9, 2012
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Trying to decide between getting the Work Sharp belt sander system or the Lansky delux diamond guided sharpener. Im using this to sharpen a couple benchmade auto folders with no serrations. Any opinions or pros and cons?
 
Sort of like comparing apples & oranges, I think. Each has it's own advantages. I think something like the Lansky will be a plus for more delicate work, and there's also much less risk of doing real damage to a blade, as can be done with powered equipment (overheating the steel, or taking too much metal off, too fast, or inadvertently grinding off metal that you didn't want to). The smallish hones of the Lansky system are nice for working with smaller blades, like traditional pocketknives and anything up to medium/large folders. And they afford some light, fingertip control over the work. The 'speed' difference of the Worksharp or any other powered system can be both a good and bad thing: good if you're accustomed to using powered devices and have acquired the 'touch' for them, and potentially very bad if you're not accustomed to them (mistakes are bigger and happen in a flash, on a powered grinder). Much easier to 'finesse' a fine edge into a blade, when done at a somewhat slower pace and with a very light touch, UNLESS one is very skilled with powered equipment.

I think the Worksharp could be a plus on very large or very thick blades (machetes, bowies, etc.), when a large amount of metal needs to come off. Even with diamond hones, that would be a very slow task with a Lansky or similar device.


David
 
I have no opinion as I completely lack finesse with a guided system. My wife gave me a Worksharp as a Christmas present. She also had the presence of mind to pick up a bunch of old kitchen knives from a thrift store. I'll practice on those before I try sharpening anything valuable.
 
I agree with everything David posted. I am a big proponent of the Lansky system and have used it for about 30 years now. It has its limitations, but overall it is a solid piece of equipment that will turn out a great edge with some practice. There is lot written on its use here on BF, so search around here and on YouTube and you will get some great instruction.

bld522 said:
I have no opinion as I completely lack finesse with a guided system. My wife gave me a Worksharp as a Christmas present. She also had the presence of mind to pick up a bunch of old kitchen knives from a thrift store. I'll practice on those before I try sharpening anything valuable.
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GOOD FOR HER! I have seen some pretty damaged knives from folks using the Worksharp system. Burned blades, straight blades that are now recurves (!!) and scorched metal. Yet the guy that I saw demo this product at the gun show was an ace with it and had no problems at all turning out perfect edges. He highly recommended practicing as much as needed to feel good about your skills before tackling a good knife. Like anything else worth knowing, there is a bit of a learning curve. I couldn't believe how sharp that little machine got dull knives in just seconds, though.

For more threads and info than you ever wanted...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/search.php?searchid=4087043

Robert
 
I agree with the practice using some cheap knives. When I got mine, I bought about a dozen thrift store knives @ $1 each or less, and went to town. I burned the tip on the first one I tried (real thin blade) but from there on it all went smoothly. I sharpened them all on the green belt, and then used the 6000 grit belt to polish and finish them on. They turned out great and hair popping sharp.

I then went on to my wives good stainless Soligen kitchen knives. The 8 inch chef knife was razor sharp and polished to a "T". I was very pleased and proud of my success. The wife tried slicing some fresh tomatoes, and complained that the knife was not as sharp as it was before I worked on it. Of course it was rough edged before I sharpened it and it would cut into the tomatoes fairly easily. After sharpening and polishing on the 6000 grit belt, it looked great, but lacked the tootheyness (my new word) to easily start through the tender skin without using a slicing motion with added pressure to cut into the tomato. I had to run it back through the device using the green belt and not use the 6000 belt to finish it. It then was able to slice the tomato with ease.

Lesson learned. For tomato slicing, you need a toothier edge to start the cut.

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
One more thing to think about is the 'dust' factor. Depending on where you plan to use the Worksharp (inside the house, or with other people/family around), that could be an issue. The dust will be everywhere. And a respirator is always a good idea with powered grinders; you really don't want to get all that metal dust into your lungs (or nose, or eyes). ;)


David
 
I have tried a Lansky... stones, Paper Wheels, Edge Pro, Syperdco Sharpmaker & Worksharp..... I found an old 1X42 " belt sander on Craigslist. I then changed out the motor to a 1725 RPM to slow things up. I picked up belts of different grit and a leather belt from Lee Valley. My knives are now very sharp and I enjoy using the belt sander.

The Worksharp can do a very good job, however, for the same cost as the Worksharp you can (in my opinion) have a better setup with a belt sander. Some people even buy the Harbor Freight 1X30" sander and seem to have good results.
 
I have both and find the Landsky more precise. I have the WS Knife/Scissor attachment. On small blades running it through the grooves the blade is sometimes "suspended" between the top and bottom groove and unless you really keep the "angle" the tip of the blade can tilt out or in to the abrasive. With the Landsky everything is clamped in and as long as you keep the guided rod at the bottom of the groove you're good to go.
 
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I have both. Work sharp was a Christmas present. I keep trying it and am finding I almost always need to touch up on the Lansky to finish.

I tell ya what though, I keep grinding the very tip off my knives with the dang work sharp. Anybody having that problem? What the heck is the problem/solution/secret? Do I need to loose the jig? Is there a technique when drawing the blade through at the end? Please advise--I am all ears.
 
On the Work Sharp, don't drag the tip through the guide. Bring the tip to about the center of the belt and lift it out. Dragging it through will round the tip. It takes a little practice to get it right, but when you get it down, you will like the results. Be careful and don't let the tip stay in the middle of the belt too long or it will overheat the tip. A smooth drawing motion is what is needed, but remove the pressure as the tip begins to cross the belt area. I use the device without the angle jig. I sharpen up close to the upper roller where there is less slack in the belt. I also just sharpen on the down side of the belt, not on the up side. Does that make sense? In other words, not against the belt rotation, but edge trailing. Good luck, with practice you will like the results you get. I know I do.

Omar
 
Im decent at freehanding, pretty good with a lansky and scared of the worksharp. Iv butchered a few knives in a matter of a few passes. Selling it to a friend next week. I use a belt sander almost daily at work. Im not sharpening knives on it but Iv got some experience with em. I just stay away from the worksharp lol, im scared of it. My friend can get some pretty sharp knives from it though.
 
The Worksharp is like any other tool, you have to put in the time using it to master it. I can push cut newspaper easily with the belts that come with the tool. I work for Snap-On now, and I've been selling the heck out of them on my tool truck. I took my personal one on the truck for a week to demo it and see what people thought. After watching me use it to sharpen their knives, and getting a lecture from me on PRACTICING on a few cheap knives before using on anything they consider nice, I've gotten nothing but positive feedback from my customers.

I had a Lansky for 15 years. I sold it a couple of weeks after getting my WS. No comparison in my eyes, especially after the initial sharpening on the WS. In the amount of time it takes to set up a Lansky, I can touch up 10 knives on the WS.
 
cramsey3006 said:
The Worksharp is like any other tool, you have to put in the time using it to master it. I can push cut newspaper easily with the belts that come with the tool. I work for Snap-On now, and I've been selling the heck out of them on my tool truck. I took my personal one on the truck for a week to demo it and see what people thought. After watching me use it to sharpen their knives, and getting a lecture from me on PRACTICING on a few cheap knives before using on anything they consider nice, I've gotten nothing but positive feedback from my customers.

I had a Lansky for 15 years. I sold it a couple of weeks after getting my WS. No comparison in my eyes, especially after the initial sharpening on the WS. In the amount of time it takes to set up a Lansky, I can touch up 10 knives on the WS.
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Im just not willing to sacrifice any of my more expensive knives to maybe get a nice edge. After practicing and getting pretty good, I still messed up a couple knives that cost decent money. Technique changes with thicker blades and different blade shapes. The guide will also scratch satin or coated blades. You could do freehand but thats more learning. Some people are great with it though. Is it better? I dont think so but thats my opinion. I agree that its much faster but that doesnt always mean better. Also, you can o ly get a convex edge with it and im not really a fan of convex edges.
 
bld522 said:
I have no opinion as I completely lack finesse with a guided system. My wife gave me a Worksharp as a Christmas present. She also had the presence of mind to pick up a bunch of old kitchen knives from a thrift store. I'll practice on those before I try sharpening anything valuable.
Click to expand...

I've been looking at picking up a new sharpener for myself and the Work Sharp is one I've been particularly eyeing. I've been using a Spyderco Sharpmaker and it leaves a lot to be desired in a sharpener. In fact, the thing can be down right frustrating at times. :mad: Does this thing work as well as it appears to? Also, what other options are out there for about the same money that will give me good results. An Edge Pro is going to be an eventuality, but it's going to be a good while.
 
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