Worksharp vs real slack belt

Shmackey

Shmackey

Joined
May 5, 2000
Messages
1,478
I've got an original EdgePro, and I am not too shabby with it. I can get a blade about as sharp as an edge can be, if I do say so myself.

But ... Sometimes it seems silly (not to mention messy) to spend an hour removing metal from a blade. I like the idea of getting 90% there in a couple of minutes--whether I leave well enough alone then or take it to the EdgePro for finishing.

I've never sharpened on a belt but am no stranger to a machine shop. If I'm better off with a real belt plus jigs, that's fine. I was thinking of getting the Worksharp plus "grinding attachment" just to get a feel for what I like, but after the attachment and belts you're at $200--which alone could get a real 1" machine.

Thoughts?
 
I've used belts, paper wheels, and freehand. A paper wheel setup is the fastest method imo. Just use an old hacksaw blade to get the hang of it. Belts are great as well and you have the ease of reprofiling if you go that route.
 
View attachment 1206571 View attachment 1206572 I have a 1X42 belt sander mounted on a tilt plate. The belt, supported by a platen is set at 15 degrees off vertical. The belt, between the end of the platen and the pulley on the spring loaded arm, works as a slack belt grinder. The knife is held with the blade’s edge pointing at the center of the earth. To grind the second bevel, you walk around the rig. The belt travels downward so the process is edge trailing. When coming off the finest belt, you can deburr the edge on the back of the cloth belt (edge trailing).
My homemade jig is set to the same angle as the machine and also to the Spyderco Sharpmaker (for touch up work). One side is 15 and the other is 20, but I am usually on the 15 off vertical side. To change bevels (R to L), you can walk around the jig or rotate it 180 degrees. I usually grind edge leading, again pointing the edge straight down. The jig accepts a wide variety of stones, and they are held in place by gravity (quick changes).
I call the power thing “the handle maker”. I use it mostly on flea market kitchen knives or stubborn or chipped knives. A big pail of water keeps the micro edge cool. I also have buffing arbor with cloth and leather wheels, but I don’t use it much for sharpening.
Large coarse stones on the jig make short work of reprofiling more expensive knives. I have Diamonds, SiC, Al2O3, Arkansas, paper on washboards, paper on platens, etc.
 
Shmackey said:
I've got an original EdgePro, and I am not too shabby with it. I can get a blade about as sharp as an edge can be, if I do say so myself.

But ... Sometimes it seems silly (not to mention messy) to spend an hour removing metal from a blade. I like the idea of getting 90% there in a couple of minutes--whether I leave well enough alone then or take it to the EdgePro for finishing.

I've never sharpened on a belt but am no stranger to a machine shop. If I'm better off with a real belt plus jigs, that's fine. I was thinking of getting the Worksharp plus "grinding attachment" just to get a feel for what I like, but after the attachment and belts you're at $200--which alone could get a real 1" machine.

Thoughts?
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Short answer. Yes. I have one and love it for all the same reasons. I bought it after owning a KME for a while. You won’t find any other variable speed grinder of any size for cheaper.

Even if you decide to step up to a 2x42 or 2x72 later, you’ll always be glad to have a quick little grinder you can use anywhere.

Just be prepared to deburr after using the worksharp. A few swipes on a strop or ceramic rod are critical to get a very sharp edge.
 
I have a custom made 1x30 belt sharapener. The belt is only moving at a slow 800 fps. This and some care on my part ensures the blade does not get too hot. For most low end steel knives I use this with a custom made jig to keep the angles exact (15, 20, 25, 30 degrees). I can put a felt or even a leather belt on and finish. For high end knives with premium steel that need a lot of metal removed to get a nice thin edge, I use the machine to remove the majority of the steel, then I finish with an Edge Pro. Sure takes a lot of time off of just using an Edge Pro. I used to spend an hour or more grinding and grinding to get a good relief on the blade.
 
ricklee4570 said:
I have a custom made 1x30 belt sharapener. The belt is only moving at a slow 800 fps. This and some care on my part ensures the blade does not get too hot. For most low end steel knives I use this with a custom made jig to keep the angles exact (15, 20, 25, 30 degrees). I can put a felt or even a leather belt on and finish. For high end knives with premium steel that need a lot of metal removed to get a nice thin edge, I use the machine to remove the majority of the steel, then I finish with an Edge Pro. Sure takes a lot of time off of just using an Edge Pro. I used to spend an hour or more grinding and grinding to get a good relief on the blade.
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Is there such a thing as a ready-to-use jig for a slow belt grinder? I would think the two together would amount to an oversized Worksharp with better belts.
 
Shmackey said:
Is there such a thing as a ready-to-use jig for a slow belt grinder? I would think the two together would amount to an oversized Worksharp with better belts.
Click to expand...
the Tormek is basically what you've described but costs about 2x a Worksharp. There is also the Grizzly Tormek knockoff.

The Worksharp has a built in angle guide on the blade grinding attachment. Its not exact, but pretty helpful.
 
CasePeanut said:
the Tormek is basically what you've described but costs about 2x a Worksharp. There is also the Grizzly Tormek knockoff.

The Worksharp has a built in angle guide on the blade grinding attachment. Its not exact, but pretty helpful.
Click to expand...

The tormek is a hard wheel, though, right? I assume it makes the opposite of a convex edge.
 
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