Worksharp--worth it?

troutfisher13111

troutfisher13111

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Mar 30, 2006
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I have decent sharpening skills, but sometimes I need a little backup. Is the worksharp something for me to consider? Is the Onion model worth the extra cash? Thanks!
 
Yes and yes. I first got the original and later the Ken Onion. The original stepped up my sharpening game considerably, and the KO is a big jump from the original. The variable speed alone makes the KO worth the higher price. Darex, the manufacturer, is great to deal with if any problems ever arise.

There are many reviews of both models in this subforum, which will give you more details and opinions.

Andrew
 
No and yes. :)

I think you will find the worksharp to work well. It does exactly what it says it can do. However, it will only put a convex edge on your blade. If that's okay with you, then you'll be happy with it.

The Ken Onion edition is well worth the money if you are okay with only having convex edges.
 
Yes yes and yes. Before owning my Ken Onion WorkSharp I had never owned or convexed an edge.
All my knives are convex now, IMO after using a Lansky kit for about a year the WS is superior and produces a better working edge.
 
Yes - I have the Ken Onion version and have been very impressed with the edges I'm able to get. The only problem I've had is that I've run out of knives to sharpen.
 
it depends, if you normally sharpen free hand on stones, then no it wouldn't be good. if you like a convex edge tho then it's be a good investment. (in b4 you can sharpen convex on stones)
 
Personally I think the convex aspect of the WorkSharp is way overblown. A true convex that has significant width to the curved convex surface is one thing. Something like the 2" wide bevel of a traditional katana. Or maybe the slightly convexed face of a yanagiba (sushi knife). But what we're talking about here is edge bevels that are usually no more than 1/8" wide, perhaps 1/4" in some cases. Neither of these has any significant curve to them. I've examined many dozens of blades I've done on the WSKO and I can only detect a little bit of curve to the bevel using reflected light. It's probably actually less convex than one done by hand on a stone (without a jig), due to the wobble in most people's stroke on a stone.

In summary, I don't think convex is a significant aspect of sharpening with the WSKO and is just a term that's being thrown around that doesn't affect results either in performance or looks. There are far more significant things to be concerned with when sharpening.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
In summary, I don't think convex is a significant aspect of sharpening with the WSKO and is just a term that's being thrown around that doesn't affect results either in performance or looks. There are far more significant things to be concerned with when sharpening.
Brian.
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I agree that the term convex edge is more of a forum "buzz word" than an actual sharpening design protocol. For me, if the edge is octagon shaped, and still is sharp enough to cut the things that I need cutting with ease, then I don't care what name you put on it. ( highly exaggerated to make a point ) If you can get a good edge that will stay sharp and do the task at hand, then who cares if it is a straight V or a "convexed" edge. As Brian points out, most hand held sharpening jobs whether done with a Work Sharp, a set of paper wheels, or an expensive water stone will be SLIGHTLY convexed due to the inconsistency of the human hand guiding the process. In the end all we want is a good sharp knife that will cut whatever we expect it to cut.

Have a Blessed day and have fun while at it!

Omar
 
I'd say the WS is a no-brainer addition to anyone's sharpening arsenal. The KO model is definitely worth the extra cash. It gives you: variable angles, variable speeds, wider belts (you can also use the skinnier ones from the original if you need to, like for certain recurves, etc.), and a couple of cool attachments that you can add as you go. :thumbup::cool:
 
I can reprofile and put a polished edge on a folder in about 15 mins with my KOWS. How much is that worth?

Jason.
 
I'm also in the market for either the standard or the KO model, good info and reviews.
 
I have the KO model and honestly could not be happier with it.
 
Practice on old knives before you work on your good ones. You can end up with an unwanted recurve blade pretty easily if you don't watch your technique.--KV
 
Doctor_big said:
I can reprofile and put a polished edge on a folder in about 15 mins with my KOWS. How much is that worth?

Jason.
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Not really a way to measure any effectiveness. I sharpen by hand with waterstones and average 10 minutes or less per blade.
 
kvaughn said:
Practice on old knives before you work on your good ones. You can end up with an unwanted recurve blade pretty easily if you don't watch your technique.--KV
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I got the original a short while before the Ken Onion version was announced and immediately began saving my nickels, dimes and quarters. Got the WSKO as soon as I could and it's worth it.

Understanding what sharpening a knife is doing to the knife edge and physical technique are still important.

..... just to state the obvious....:foot:
 
Doctor_big said:
Including reprofiling from, say, 20 to 17 degrees?
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I typically reprofile every knife so, yes. If the blade need a tip repair or a chipped edge fixed then it could take 15-20 minutes.

When using power tools it should only take a minute or two per blade, any longer and it's not efficient.

15 minutes is a LOT of grind time with power equipment. Your knife will have a very short life with such methods.
 
Jason B. said:
I typically reprofile every knife so, yes. If the blade need a tip repair or a chipped edge fixed then it could take 15-20 minutes.

.
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So let me get this straight.... you can take a folder that's made of decent steel -- say a ZT in S30V -- reprofile it down from 25degrees to 20degrees
and put a mirror shine on it in under a half-hour?* With waterstones?* I honestly wouldn't have thought it possible.
 
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