Workshop flooring

Thom Moss

Thom Moss

Joined
Jan 8, 2019
Messages
53
I just built a new detached 1500sq/ft workshop on a cement pad. Was thinking of one of those diy epoxy floor covering kits, (rust-oleum epoxyshield). I am unsure if that’s a good idea for when I am forging, knowing I will eventually drop hot steel on the deck. Curious what others have used or recommend. Right now I plan to just leave a dedicated 15x15 forge area blank. Thanks.
 
I'm glad you got the new shop built. Congrats.
Epoxy is a good floor coating. The area around the anvil will get a bit scarred up, but it will take a long time before it needs to be touched up.
 
I have a ton ( literally) of electrical stuff left over from my build - wire, outlet boxes, etc. I also have ece-0very wiring tool imaginable. Give me a call or text.
 
Welcome Nick. Fill out your profile so people know a bit about you and where you live. That would tell us things like if you are an electrician and how long you have been at it. There care a lot of electricians in Shop Talk, but one more is always good.

Tom and I live in the same area and he comes over regularly. He is a really "by the numbers" kind of guy and will make sure everything is code. We have already discussed the requirements for a metal frame building being different than a frame walled building.
 
I put epoxy down half a year ago and it seems good. Easy to clean, tough and seems fairly resistant to chemicals. Can be sanded.
 
Appreciate the feedback and the offers for help. Bought the epoxy and supplies today and will be doing the whole shop soon. Might try to track down an EM on base this week that I can get to come over to double check my work. (Or pay to help me do the electrical).
 
Make sure the surface is porous before you begin coating. The concrete also needs to be at least 30 days old. A lot of time concrete finishers will power smooth the concrete to make it look nice. This also closes all of the pores which won’t allow anything to stick. This will cause the epoxy to sit on the surface and it will easily flake off.
 
Gos
Dominick Maone said:
Make sure the surface is porous before you begin coating. The concrete also needs to be at least 30 days old. A lot of time concrete finishers will power smooth the concrete to make it look nice. This also closes all of the pores which won’t allow anything to stick. This will cause the epoxy to sit on the surface and it will easily flake off.
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Gosh, that reminds me how tight timings were when I laid epoxy. First a sealer, and a few hours later (when sticky but not dry) the epoxy primer (which also was epoxy). Less than 24 hours after that a coat of the actual epoxy, and second coat 12 hours later. That's by memory, but in general, everything was done while the last coat got to sticky but not fully cured. You also have to make sure that the air has escaped each layer or you get bubbles, so you can't rush it either (i.e., 4 hours bad, 12 hours good, 24 hours bad!). Very time sensitive.
 
J-T-K said:
Gos


Gosh, that reminds me how tight timings were when I laid epoxy. First a sealer, and a few hours later (when sticky but not dry) the epoxy primer (which also was epoxy). Less than 24 hours after that a coat of the actual epoxy, and second coat 12 hours later. That's by memory, but in general, everything was done while the last coat got to sticky but not fully cured. You also have to make sure that the air has escaped each layer or you get bubbles, so you can't rush it either (i.e., 4 hours bad, 12 hours good, 24 hours bad!). Very time sensitive.
Click to expand...

Yeah. Epoxy and urethane floor coatings are pretty interesting. A lot of the 100% solids ones need to be spike rolled to release air. And you have to recoat within x hours or you have to sand the surface. Pretty interesting stuff.

I work for a Fortune 500 paint company and used to run a store that specialized in floor coatings. Pretty neat stuff.

99% if the time an epoxy failed, we would find out it was from poor prep. Either dirt/grease or the concrete was not porous.
 
Appreciate the info. Concrete was poured early December, building was finished weds. I did a basic leaf blower clean and a just water pressure wash today. Have some etcher/cleaner and will scrub it later this week, and pressure wash again, let dry for 2 days then attempt to paint it. Hopefully by Saturday. Semi worried since it is very smooth finish on it now.
 
Before you paint the floor. Bead up a few drops of water on the floor to make sure it absorbs quickly. Do this in a few areas. If it doesn’t absorb water, it won’t absorb the epoxy.

I would also thin the first coat around 50% to make sure it soaks into the concrete. Check for the appropriate thinner.
 
I remember now that I had laid self leveling compound first. That stuff was clearly porous and the epoxy based primer must have bound pretty deep into it, giving it strength.

My tips:
- Follow manufacturers instructions!
- Have a plan on when you put the coats (e.g., whether you start in the morning or evening and that you are free at the right times)
- Don't skimp on primer
- If the space is large, recruit some help to spikeroll before it starts curing (my product was workable for just 15 minutes)
 
My only thoughts 2 days after pressure washing might not be long enough time to fully dry. I work construction and know flooring people are very particular about dampness of concrete before applying flooring over it. They usually tape down a 2 foot square of plastic and see if it condensates for atleast a couple days before applying flooring. IDK
 
I mentioned the time delay to Thom. I was thinking a couple weeks after pressure washing with big fans running. Right now we are running 75-90% humidity and expecting rain regularly for a while. My gut tells me it ain't gonna be dry in two days.

BTW, Thom, I have a big industrial fan you can borrow.
 
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