Review Worthwhile purchases on a budget

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knifefeller

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Feb 5, 2024
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I started three years ago, with a really tight budget. I wanted to share some cheap equipment that I bought that took me a long way.

14 TPI Hacksaw Blades

Easily the best, and the cheapest, purchase in this post. They halved the amount of time I spent sawing. Lubricate them and they’ll last you a knife or two.

WEN 1x30

My first ”real” knifemaking tool. It was 90 bucks on Amazon and it still works great now. Cannot say enough good things about it. It’s 1.5 hp and eats through steel (admittedly, the platten and tracking aren’t great, but nothing beats the price).
Bastard File

A good Bastard file (without a handle, if you’re cheap like me) is great for precise profiling and cleaning up your sloppy beginner grinds. Again, lubricate!

A CHEAP Drill Press

You can probably get this used for less than $100. Yes, it’s cheaply made, yes, it’s weak, but it beats using a hand drill. With a hand drill, on thick steel, your pins will be crooked. And it’s still faster than a hand electric drill. Once again, lubricate.

Red Label Abraisives 36 Grit Belts

These are the same as the hacksaw blades. They will literally half the amount of grinding you do. They do go quickly though.

Honorary Mention: Bench Vise

It ain’t cheap, but it’s a great investment. It will last you years and years and it feels great to have complete confidence in the thing holding your steel.

Edited by Moderator for language.
 
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Welcome Knifefeller. Fill out your profile so we know where you live and a bit about you beyond the fact that you are 16.

Try to keep the language clean here. Sometimes it is sort of necessary, but when it isn't, use better words. (I probably sound like you grandparents).
I edited the words.

An additional tip to your hacksaw blade is using 14TPI Lenox blades, but even more important - a High Tension Hacksaw Frame. They cost only about $10 more than a regular hacksaw frame but work 10 times as good.
File Handles can be purchased for around $5 and can be moved from file to file.
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Welcome Knifefeller. Fill out your profile so we know where you live and a bit about you beyond the fact that you are 16.

Try to keep the language clean here. Sometimes it is sort of necessary, but when it isn't, use better words. (I probably sound like you grandparents).
I edited the words.

An additional tip to your hacksaw blade is using 14TPI Lenox blades, but even more important - a High Tension Hacksaw Frame. They cost only about $10 more than a regular hacksaw frame but work 10 times as good.
File Handles can be purchased for around $5 and can be moved from file to file.
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My apologies. Nice to meet you!
 
I’d add:
Granite surface plate, Super 77, and sandpaper of your choice.
Carbide faced file guide
Cobalt drill bits
Digital angle cube
Machinist’s square
Magnifying lenses
The file guide is the only thing that hit the $100 mark. The other items were significantly cheaper.
 
vernier calipers are super handy and can be very cheap
a carbide scribe is also good to have
and an automatic center punch
 
As a height gouge (carbide scribe) on the cheap I use lathe groove or parting tool (2$ in yard sale) and deck of playing cards. Clamp it on necessary amount of cards to find almost blade center, scribe line, flip knife blank over, scribe again - done. I usually use my grinder tool rest as a flat surface.
anBn
 
lynx85 said:
As a height gouge (carbide scribe) on the cheap I use lathe groove or parting tool (2$ in yard sale) and deck of playing cards. Clamp it on necessary amount of cards to find almost blade center, scribe line, flip knife blank over, scribe again - done. I usually use my grinder tool rest as a flat surface.
anBn
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I’ve been using drill bits, will also give this a try
 
Lathe cutters, for example, third from the left, have very sharp point. Also, they are with flat shank, easier to clamp and my point- use cards to adjust height. I have done it with drill bits, but I never got that crisp line I am looking for.
And, talking about clamps - in my shop couple of irwin quick grip clamps are in use every day. Bought them 15 years ago, use in every project.
 
buying sandpaper in bulk is way cheaper. They usually come 50 to a box. Running out of sandpaper just when you need it sucks. Hopefully mine showed up today lol
 
When I started making knives as a regular thing, I used three thickness of steel - 1/4", 3/16", and 1/8" (there weren't many other choices). I took a short piece of each and ground both ends at a 45° angle and then tapered that to a 45° "edge." This created a sharp and strong point on each end of the bar. I hardened them and left the tip just barely tempered. I sharpened the tip to be very sharp.
I would pick the one that matched the steel I was using, clamp it on a flat surface, and scribe the blade edge/spine centerlines. I would flip the blade to get a second line. Sometimes the lines were barely separated.

BTW, I quickly learned that .25" was far too thick for most any real-use knife. .1875 was OK for a monster camp knife or bowie, and .125" was good for almost all knives. I have since gone down to .060-.080" for most kitchen knives and .10" for hunters and such.

Most new makers think knives need to be twice as thick as is actually required. I always suggest taking a micrometer and measuring all your kitchen knives, pocketknives, hunters, fillets, and work blades. You will be amazed at how most are under .10". Many will be around.06".
The mistake many new knifemakers make on their first machete is using 1/4" steel. It ends up a heavy steel club, not a machete. Most machete are around .125" thick.
Now, I use .25" bar stock is for forging out a machete. I take a .25"X1.5"X12" piece of stock and end up with a 20" machete. It is fun to watch it form as you draw the steel out.
 
Lorien said:
another relatively inexpensive power tool that doesn't take up much space and is super versatile, but which saves an incredible amount of time is a portable band saw. Only $100-$200 and worth every penny
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Absolutely. Ya use it for so much more than just cutting out blades. On the cheap, don't overlook Home Depot for handle material. I've been stunned at some of the gorgeous walnut they will occasionally carry in their hardwood section. Last time I got some it was $7 a foot. A 1 ft by 1 inch by 6 inches is a lot of knife handles.
 
running bird said:
I’d suggest a magnetic shop light. More light is always good. Especially when hand hand sanding, to make sure you’ve removed every last scratch in each grit
Click to expand...
I’m actually looking into one myself. I was hand sanding a couple days ago on a blank. I had it ground so there was still a 16th inch left. I sliced my pinky open and had to get four stitches.
 
I feel like I could talk about this subject forever - but i'll make a small list;

1. Can't twist clamps. Unbelievably useful, the applications are endless, especially in the knife shop. I picked up a handful as I started, and found myself using them for everything.
2. 1-2-3 blocks. Coupled with some can't twist clamps, and you have a way to drill material clamped together, makes doing pins a breeze. Can check your grinder platen, and various other sanity checks in the workshop.
3. Quality sand paper (rhynowet). It truly is a game changer if you're handsanding blades.
4. Jewelry clamp. Holds small things, for all the little fiddly tasks we do. You don't realize how nice it is to have an ergonomic way to perform the task you're trying. I recently just picked one up, and oh my god how I lived without this thing is a mystery.
5. Granite surface plate. The lifeblood of everything you do. Flatness, & parallel are critical.
 
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