Would an oil finish benefit from soaking?

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
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I've read about the multiple applications but I was wondering if soaking would work better? I even have a vacuum machine I could use. Maybe with some thinning of the oil to help?
This is for tung or other oil finishes.
Anyone tried or has experience with this?
 
I usually soak mine for 15-20 minutes at the first application, then put on two or three light coats after that. I use teak oil. Haven't had any problems, and the finish seems to hold up. I'm not shooting for glossy, haven't tried a built up tru-oil style finish that way.
 
I think using the vacuum would be worth a try. I doubt that just soaking would make much difference over rubbing it in normally, but I've been wrong before. The Count raises a good point about possibly interfering with your glue-up...
 
I have been using teak oil on my handles. I put 10 coats on 1 knife and tried to buff it after 2 weeks - didn't seem to make it any more shiny. However, the coats may have been too thick and the oil is about 5 years old.

If you are going to the trouble of vacuuming bagging, you might try heating the knife to about 150 degrees before putting the oil on - that should open the pores of the wood. Then, immediately apply the vacuum.

Tim
 
Thanks guys, didn't even think about the glue. I might try it in the future but won't take a chance with this knife and go with the application method.

Thanks for saving for the info and saving me a bunch of time. :thumbup:
 
Built my own stabilizing chamber out of 3/8 lexan, micarta lid, and a cheap HF vacuum pump. Use a product called Cactus Juice. Check out www.turntex.com This guy sells the fluid and also makes/sells stabilizing chambers. Nothing but good results......i get a semi gloss finish with just buffing. Plus entire scale is plasticized after stabilization. The curing process utilizes the good ol toaster over.
 
Curing oils like tung and linseed oxidize to cure, no exposure to oxygen, they stay fluid. This is why a thick coat can sometimes "dry" gummy. Soaking briefly in oil, either with or without thinner, is not a problem if the excess is wiped off, but I would be leery of using vacuum to pull oil into the wood, the wood might weep uncured finish for a long time
 
Patrice, you may wish to consider a premium gunstock finishing oil. Dan Farr uses Permalyn (available through Brownell's), and I don't think I've ever seen a better oil finish. He has a unique way of applying it that is somewhat time consuming but works flawlessly. It has a classic luster and is very durable:

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Photo cobbed from one of my buddy Rog's threads. This knife has a goncalo alves handle, and if it ever leaves Rog's collection and doesn't get offered to me there's gonna be fisticuffs! ; )

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I hate trying to get a finish with tung oil (or that other "standard" Tru-Oil.) They rarely fill the pores the way you need to to get good results without a lot of effort. What I use for gunstocks (and I've done a fair number) is Verathane polymer in the satin or oil finish as a filler. Let that penetrate and fill the pores and then put your oil finish on over the top of that. I like Clive Lemon's English Gunstock finishs, but I've used a number of other things (including Tru-Oil). It's a huge time saver.
 
jt, I would rather not build a tank. I now use already stabilized woods most of the time but I wanted to have an option when I need to use a particular piece of wood, like something that has a particular meaning for the recipient of the knife.

Mahoney, that's settles it, I won't try soaking.

Matt, that is just a perfect finish. I have to order some stuff from Brownell's so I will add that to the list as well as eisman's Clive Lemon finish if they sell some there. Dan's process isn't anywhere on the net is it?

I really appreciate all your help guys, thanks.
 
Mahoney said:
Curing oils like tung and linseed oxidize to cure, no exposure to oxygen, they stay fluid. This is why a thick coat can sometimes "dry" gummy. Soaking briefly in oil, either with or without thinner, is not a problem if the excess is wiped off, but I would be leery of using vacuum to pull oil into the wood, the wood might weep uncured finish for a long time
Click to expand...

Thank you for pointing that out. :)
 
Those knives by Dan Farr are beautiful. Does anyone know how he gets that rough finish on part of the scales? Is there some special tool he uses or does he sandblast part of the wood?

Tim
 
Dan stipples those areas with a very small burr on a rotary tool (like a dremel), Tim.

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Brownell's also sells a gunstock oil called Pro Custom Oil, it comes in both a spray and a bottle, I don't like the spray as its too thick. But i have used the oil when I built my rifle, it has a nice satin finish but you can get it up to a gloss, not as high as Tru Oil but I think it is an easier oil to work with. Also, as was mentioned, if you use a thinner on your first couple coats, the wood will suck it right up into it. Or if you use a drying cabinet, that helps too.
 
Last time I tried, we (Canada) can't order aerosol cans from Brownells, so the oil bottles are a good option, even that can be tricky as ITAR rules have made everything more complicated.
 
You won't get the quality finish Dan gets without some concentrated effort.
The good stuff doesn't come easy. If it did, everyone would be doing it and getting those fantastic results.
Everyone else uses Tru-oil.
 
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