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Would patina be beneficial on D2 steel EDC?

Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
617
So, I've been using Boker GoBag as EDC ever since I got it. I plan fo retire it and carry Cold Steel Mini Pendleton in 3V. But only after I finish leather sheath for it which will be just in time for autumn.

This blade is not coated, it only developed small black spots from sweaty fingerprinys I didn't remember to wipe off, but this made me think it could corrode. Cutting apple, multiple bugers and other fast foods with it did not corrode it further (it even reduced the spotting). I wash and dry it after every use on food tho.

So, question is, would patina give this uncoated blade any benefits?
If yes - how to do it? I'm not finding anything on D2 patina om YouTube.
Thank you in advance!
 
I find it pretty hard to get any kind of patina on D2 or 3V for that matter -- they both have a bit of chromium. Both will corrode eventually but not as easily as high carbon steels like 1095 etc. I just keep mine dry or wipe them down with BreakFreeCLP if I'm not going to use them for a while.
 
Yes, I found it to help. Stick the blade in a cup of coke and it will patina up nicely in just a few minutes.
You mean the coke a cola won't/don't dissolve D2 like it do 10 penny nails, steel wool, and night crawlers?!?!



The experiment in 8th grade Science Class:
Nine baby food jars with lids, filled 1 each:
Tap Water + nails; Tap Water + steel wool; Tap Water + earthworm
Pepsi + nails; Pepsi + steel wool; Pepsi + earthworm
Coke + nails; Coke + steel wool; Coke + earthworm

(Allegedly, no slimy worms were drowned in the experiment. They was allegedly already dead.)

At the end of the two day experiment, the Tap Water and Pepsi jars contained what was put in them.
The three jars with Coke a Cola only had the Coke a Cola. The nails, steel wool, and worm had all been dissolved.

Science Teacher's Question: "What does this tell you?"

To quote my classmate (honest, it wasn't me) the teacher called on to answer the question:
"If you drink Coke a Cola, you won't have worms?"
 
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After using wipe the blades with mineral oil. (food safe) Does not go bad like olive oil etc. Do not store the blade in a leather sheath for extended periods of time. You should not face any issues doing this. IMO
 
black spots
:) If you got black / brown and not grey/ whitish then I believe you might be able to force a patina with strong acid or other corrosive .

Heat helps accelerate most chemical reactions and make sure blade has oils stripped off first .

I'm not sure if there is much benefit beyond aesthetics . Some say yea and some say nay. :confused:

A nice deep patina may help hold anti-corrosives and thus help ? o_O
 
You mean the coke a cola won't/don't dissolve D2 like it do 10 penny nails, steel wool, and night crawlers?! ...

There is phosphoric acid in Coca Cola and some other dark sodas. That's why it is corrosive. That also makes it especially bad for tooth enamel. It's supposedly bad for bones too but I don't know how true that is relative to internal regulation.
 
Yes, I found it to help. Stick the blade in a cup of coke and it will patina up nicely in just a few minutes.
Thanks for the tip! :D
:) If you got black / brown and not grey/ whitish then I believe you might be able to force a patina with strong acid or other corrosive .

Heat helps accelerate most chemical reactions and make sure blade has oils stripped off first .

I'm not sure if there is much benefit beyond aesthetics . Some say yea and some say nay. :confused:

A nice deep patina may help hold anti-corrosives and thus help ? o_O
Yeah, those spots are black, they look
like paint but I can't wipe them off or wash them off or scrub them. And I know they weren't there when knife was new.

I think I agree with you it's pretty stainless as it is, so I'll let it be the way it is. I'm OK with whatever happens to it naturally as long as it's just black spotting.
 
After using wipe the blades with mineral oil. (food safe) Does not go bad like olive oil etc. Do not store the blade in a leather sheath for extended periods of time. You should not face any issues doing this. IMO
This D2 is in kydex sheath.
But I usually just wipe it or wash and dry it before putting it back in sheath. Food grade mineral oil could help tho. Thank you.
 
I have a many knives in D2 and I've noticed that they won't patina , but when they start to corrode they pit. Small pock marks like acne.
It won't patina naturally as you say though sticking them for a few mins in vinegar or coke will turn the blade grey, I had the same experience as you did which is why I fell back on the 'coke' patina. The salts in meats in particular would cause the pitting if they weren't washed off very well. Especially at the tang where they might collect inside the handle and sit there against the blade metal. It's the reason I stopped carrying my D2 knife in the end. I got fed up having to carefully wash and dry after slicing meat and especially the salami I would have with my lunch.

patinaclean.jpg
 
Here’s a good look at the difference. The LT Wright hunter is D2, the slipjoint is A2. Both have been used on food, outdoor camping tasks , and wild game. The D2 is more grey than when new and has a few black flecks here and there, but the A2 takes that nice patina.

4dOw9S1.jpg
 
Thank you! I will give it some time and then decide if I want to subject it to something that corrosive or not.

Expect pictures if I do!
 
Here’s a good look at the difference. The LT Wright hunter is D2, the slipjoint is A2. Both have been used on food, outdoor camping tasks , and wild game. The D2 is more grey than when new and has a few black flecks here and there, but the A2 takes that nice patina.

4dOw9S1.jpg
That’s a beautiful 20 gauge.
 
That’s a beautiful 20 gauge.

Thank you! It’s got a magnesium receiver and a thinner wall barrel than most standard guns so it’s super lightweight. I always wish I would have kept that fixed blade. It’s a Pro Hunter which was a special run sent to select dealers to sell. I haven’t seen another one in a long time.
 
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