Would this work?

years ago and far away, my friend and I were watching tv and we saw a infomercial for this fabulous coating product for cars, something that would let you never wax your car again.

He got some and put it on his car, a 67 Camarro. And dang if there weren't weird off-white splotches all over the car that wouldn't come out :rolleyes:

But he didn't have a cheap-o from India to try it out on first :D
 
If you had a blade only, it should work fine. I suspect that 300 degrees would melt the laha, and might damage the horn. But let us know how it works. :)

Steve
 
300 degrees is high enough to anneal hardened carbon steal, that is to say you would reduce the hardness of your blade at that temperate.

I for one would skip this unless I had just heat treated the blade and had yet to do the anneal step.

2 cents

Glass Smith
 
Sounding more and more like I'll skip the bake on and go with the PermaSlikG
only. :eek:

For Bruise Lee: The PermaSlik works perfect for that distinguished Gray mature sophisticated man of the world look. Recommend putting some painters tape on the forehead and over the ears before spraying. Also before using on the head, you might wanna do a test spray down a bit lower on the body. Use of tape on the privates optional but my friend Leroy tells me the girls love it and one biker babe has been especially creative(details too lurid for public knowledge) :D :eek: .
 
Glass Smith said:
300 degrees is high enough to anneal hardened carbon steal, that is to say you would reduce the hardness of your blade at that temperate.

I for one would skip this unless I had just heat treated the blade and had yet to do the anneal step.

2 cents

Glass Smith
Click to expand...

300 degrees will not anneal steel. It could temper the hardness down, but not not by much at all. I think that most people consider 350 the lowest you can go to temper. A little tempering might actually help, beacause I dont think khuks are tempered at all. Of course, 300 degrees will wreak havoc on every other part of the knife.
 
Jebadiah_Smith said:
A little tempering might actually help, beacause I dont think khuks are tempered at all.
Click to expand...

Really?

What about the teakettle hardening. Is my definition off?

Nam
 
Hardening and tempering are two parts of the same process. Hardening is what is done the moment the water touches that red hot blade. Tempering is relieving stress (usually after hardening) with a controlled application of heat, on carbon steels usually between 300 and 500 degrees F for 30 minutes to 3 hours, sometimes repeated after the blade cools. 300 degrees is a minimal temperature for tempering, if the blade hardened at say 62 RC a 300 degree temper for an hour wouldn't reduce it more than 1 or 2 rockwell points. Subsequent 300 degree tempers wouldn't likely reduce it any more. Depending on how the kamis let the blade cool after hardening, the edge may be tempered by the residual heat in the main body of the blade. Regardless, a 300 degree bake on a khukri won't signifigantly alter performance, unless it was too hard to begin with, in which case it might help a little.

**2nd edit** Permasilk-g, I've heard of that stuff on AR-15 and other firearms discussion boards. Seems it's the best stuff out there for refinishing small parts and especially AR magazines. Good quality stuff, tell us how it works as a blade coating.
 
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