Would you buy a stainless steel Becker?

L

Lawrence Helm

Joined
Jul 24, 2014
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328
I have puzzled over why Becker people, many of them, like to strip their blades. I couldn't see how that would work well unless the metal under the handles wasn't stripped, or if it was that something like what was stripped off was reapplied. Not me, I said to myself. The metal will rust without rust protection.

But then last night I was sorely tempted to bid on a "mirror image" BK2. The mirror-image finish was provided by a finishing company in Missouri. Iron wood handles were included as well. Despite my thinking it a bad idea I was tempted. The poor photos with enough imagination made the knife look stunning. This morning I looked up the finishing company -- maybe it wasn't the same one, but the Better Business Bureau has warning against one finishing outfit in Missouri. Then too I wondered why someone would go to the expense of having the blade finished, getting new handles and a new sheath (not my sort of sheath but an aftermarket sheath none-the-less) and then sell it "new, unused and undamaged" on eBay. Or maybe the knife was returned and being sold by the finishing company.

I ran a search on whether a lot of stripped BK2s ended up rusting, and discovered that a lot of them did -- even BK12s that are sold with dire warnings: this knife will rust! I chickened out and the knife went for $82.

Later on it seemed to me that this stripping of Becker knives is counter-intuitive. Why buy a knife that has a protective coating on it to prevent rust and then strip that coating off? I asked this before on another thread and was told that it if it was used around food some of the protective coating might fleck off and you might end up eating it. If that were the only reason the BK5 has a different coating and was designed to be used to prepare food.

A bit later I wondered why Ethan Becker doesn't make stainless-steel versions of some of his knives; thus satisfying the desire of those who hate protective coatings. I have a lot of Buck knives -- all stainless steel and they seem as though they might last forever. Are stripped, or mirror image, BK2s going to last forever? I don't think so. Sure if you only have a few stripped Beckers and take good care of them they will be fine, but what if you reach my age (80) get sick (I'm not but a lot of people my age are) and neglect your stripped Beckers for a long time?

Or what if you die and leave all your knives to your grandkids who aren't really into knives but one day open the box and wonder why you would have so many rusty knives?

So if Ethan Becker made a stainless steel version of a few of his knives, would I buy them? Even though I don't strip off the protective coating I think I might. Would you?

Lawrence
 
Personally I would not, I just don't like stainless in my fixed blades. As for the coating, many people strip the coating to reduce the drag when going through wood, as for, I just think it looks cool.

I've never had one of my beckers get more than a spot of surface rust, I've never understood why people complain about having to take care of them so they don't rust, all I do is wipe them down with a little WD-40 and put them in the death and they are as goods rain till the next time I want to use them
 
The right kind of Stainless? Yes You bet. I would pay the increase for Super stainless steels especially on the Tweener line. I would Adore a High end steel 14, 15, 16, 17. I think even the 10 and the 12 would be well served by a tougher steel thats stainless or semi stainless. The 2 could be offered in a thinner stock while being stronger over all, if it was done in something like CPM 3v.

I think the reason that it hasnt been looked at more seriously though, is the price point of the Becker line, makes them extremely high bang for the buck, and the upcharge would put them in a different market of buyers.
 
Silverthorn said:
I think the reason that it hasnt been looked at more seriously though, is the price point of the Becker line, makes them extremely high bang for the buck, and the upcharge would put them in a different market of buyers.
Click to expand...

This....

Not going to lie... If I could afford it, I'd like them.

If the 'Snody Big Boss' is any indication of a price point for a higher end stainless or looking at some of the competition. You're looking at between $150-$500, depending on the model and steel. You just eliminated the entire buying group of everybody that wont spend over $100 on a knife.

On the other side of things... A BK11 in Elmax or M390 would be pretty amazing :D I also agree with Thorny that a few in 3V would be insane. Maybe even a tweener in S30V..... I'm going to start dreaming now.
 
Well Lawrence, I have gotten an almost mirror polish on a few of my Becker's and let me tell you, if you plan on using the knife, don't waste your time. The knife will not rust as easy but as soon as that metal is used to cut food, meat, anything acidic, or even some tree saps or the juice stuff found in weeds like thistle, it will patina very quickly. I found my self having to polish out the whole blade after almost every use.

So the silver mirror becomes tarnished very fast. But I still do get a close to mirror finish sometimes but always add a patina right away so I am not disappointed when I can't see myself in the blade after the first use. lol

Now, this whole coating issue has been brought up here many many times before and everyone has there own opinions.

First off, the main reason the knives are coated is not really to prevent rust, that is part of it, but the main reason I believe is to cover up machining marks and stuff in the metal. If Ka-Bar did not coat them and took all the grind marks out of the blade, these knives would cost us probably 3 to 4 times what we pay now. If any one has ever stripped one then you know what I am talking about. It takes a lot of time to get them nice. Look at the BK-24, that is an uncoated blade, but they stonewash it to cove up the grind lines and you can still see marks on the spine and blade. Actually looks good on that knife though.
It is also easier for companies to store a knife that is coated. It would really suck if you opened that box for the new knife you just ordered and see rust all over the blade. So they would need to oil each one before they ship.

Another reason I think the coating is a good thing is because lot's of guys are not as into knives as we Beckerhead's are. They just buy one and don't really use it but a couple time's a year.
I know even in my tool chest that I keep my knives in in my garage, that if the weather is humid and it rains a lot, any knife that did not have oil on it will start to show slight signs of rust.
That's not all the time, but a couple of times a year I do notice a difference. Just depends on the weather.
So if that was a knife I wanted to let's say, leave in my Jeep or in a BOB or even keep in my hunting pack, I may want that knife to have a coating so I know it is ready to go whenever I needed it. I think that is how most people are.

We all know that the coating comes off very fast even after batoning it through a log once or twice. I know that my knives get used to do all kinds of crazy stuff but it's not usually because I am out in the field surviving. It's because I am at home testing the crap out of them. I am always looking for a chance to use one of my knives. So for me the coating on the blade is absolutely useless. It get's in my way when doing food prep and game cleaning. I like to get if off right away and make the knife my own.

But like I said, most of the guys who get these knives will never use them the way we all do. Lot's of people get them as gifts. I know I have given away lot's of them. And trust me, no one in my family really knows how to take care of a carbon steel blade, so I like the coating on the blades fro them. And it keeps me from having to sand rust off their blades. lol

Becker's were really my first carbon steel blades. I've had tons of knives before this but they were mostly stainless steel. It think a lot of people are used to stainless steel knives and are not used to caring for a carbon steel knife.

Note: The BK-12 and ESEE's will rust a lot faster that the KA-BAR knives. That's for sure. Thank you added Cro-Van!

Anyway, that brings us to the stainless steel question.
There was a stainless S30V BK-7 made a few years ago. It didn't sell well and if you do find one they are usually asking around $250 for it.
The BK-13 is stainless and the BK-24 is D2 which is close to stainless.

In my experience stainless is a lot harder to sharpen than 1095 and is not as forgiving. Meaning I find most SS Blades more brittle and will chip out more.
So for a knife that is made to be beaten on and is able to be sharpened out in the field with little to no supplies (use a rock) the Carbon steel is the way to go.
Some SS blades are made to be beaten on too, but you are going to pay hundreds of dollars to get one.

MY answer is NO. I would not by stainless steel Becker's. I am really happy with the 1095 and since I do strip all my knives, I feel they need me to care for them, Like my little kids. haha Stainless blades don't need you. They are fine for years by them self. :) I like getting out and fondling and oiling my knives every few weeks. LOL Really, I do.

But I would buy a few BK-11's, BK-16's, and BK-15's in D2. I am happy with the D2. The smaller knives that are EDC's may do fine in stainless.

I can understand people living near the coast, like were I grew up, wanting a good stainless knife. But where I am now, I just don't need it.

And yes, I usually don't strip under the handle scales.

Also for a good outdoor's knife, the carbon steel blade is able to make a spark from a rock to make fire. That's a plus.

So for Becker knives to stay in the price point where they are and to be able to still be put to hard use, I don't think the stainless steel would work.
But I wouldn't mind seeing versions of them released uncoated with a nice stone wash finish. Would save me a lot of time stripping.



I will add a picture for those of you who don't want to read. haha

IMG_1018_zps902c8af2.jpg
 
Knives that will be beat-on should be carbon steel, IMO. They tend to be tougher for the money and will be more likely to suffer edge rolling rather than chipping. Therefore a coating of some kind is appropriate for the rabble who aren't knife nerds.

3V would be *amazing* in the big becker line. see also: spendy

S35VN would be excellent for the smaller blades. hell, it's pretty good for a LOT of things, but also: spendy

Most of the hand-tools in your toolbox are probably carbon steel. some are chromed for protection.
 
I'd buy a bk4 or bk7 in 3v even if the price was in the $150 range.

While I prefer carbon steels, there are times when I make trips in wet weather or in wetlands and carbon steel requires much more attention in such environments.

A Machax in a super steel like 3v would be excellent. I know some Beckers are in D2 but I am NOT a fan of D2. It's too brittle for the hard use my knives get. I can't afford to carry a D2 primary blade that could chip or snap while I'm miles from the nearest road with no cell phone or backup blade.



Bottom line, yes.
A Machax or bk7 in 3v is something I'd like to see.
 
TBL said:
And this is where the problem lies!

The quoted Becker knives in 3V would be double your given price range (easily).
Click to expand...

Ah, I see.
Well, I don't know much about different stainless steels, are there any other shock resistant stainless steels that are more affordable but better than 440c?

I've had choppers in 440c that held an edge great, resisted chipping and rolling very well but ended up snapping under simple chopping chores (not batoning).

I'd want a blade steel that resisted corrosion, withstood shock from chopping and batoning, and also was field sharpenable.


Is there such a thing?



Edit, after reading a chart of common stainless tool steels, I remembered I used to have a fondness for AUS-8.

A bk7 in AUS-8 or AUS-6 would be fantastic.
 
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Dexwithers said:
Well Lawrence, I have gotten an almost mirror polish on a few of my Becker's and let me tell you, if you plan on using the knife, don't waste your time. The knife will not rust as easy but as soon as that metal is used to cut food, meat, anything acidic, or even some tree saps or the juice stuff found in weeds like thistle, it will patina very quickly. I found my self having to polish out the whole blade after almost every use.

So the silver mirror becomes tarnished very fast. But I still do get a close to mirror finish sometimes but always add a patina right away so I am not disappointed when I can't see myself in the blade after the first use. lol

Now, this whole coating issue has been brought up here many many times before and everyone has there own opinions.

First off, the main reason the knives are coated is not really to prevent rust, that is part of it, but the main reason I believe is to cover up machining marks and stuff in the metal. If Ka-Bar did not coat them and took all the grind marks out of the blade, these knives would cost us probably 3 to 4 times what we pay now. If any one has ever stripped one then you know what I am talking about. It takes a lot of time to get them nice. Look at the BK-24, that is an uncoated blade, but they stonewash it to cove up the grind lines and you can still see marks on the spine and blade. Actually looks good on that knife though.
It is also easier for companies to store a knife that is coated. It would really suck if you opened that box for the new knife you just ordered and see rust all over the blade. So they would need to oil each one before they ship.

Another reason I think the coating is a good thing is because lot's of guys are not as into knives as we Beckerhead's are. They just buy one and don't really use it but a couple time's a year.
I know even in my tool chest that I keep my knives in in my garage, that if the weather is humid and it rains a lot, any knife that did not have oil on it will start to show slight signs of rust.
That's not all the time, but a couple of times a year I do notice a difference. Just depends on the weather.
So if that was a knife I wanted to let's say, leave in my Jeep or in a BOB or even keep in my hunting pack, I may want that knife to have a coating so I know it is ready to go whenever I needed it. I think that is how most people are.

We all know that the coating comes off very fast even after batoning it through a log once or twice. I know that my knives get used to do all kinds of crazy stuff but it's not usually because I am out in the field surviving. It's because I am at home testing the crap out of them. I am always looking for a chance to use one of my knives. So for me the coating on the blade is absolutely useless. It get's in my way when doing food prep and game cleaning. I like to get if off right away and make the knife my own.

But like I said, most of the guys who get these knives will never use them the way we all do. Lot's of people get them as gifts. I know I have given away lot's of them. And trust me, no one in my family really knows how to take care of a carbon steel blade, so I like the coating on the blades fro them. And it keeps me from having to sand rust off their blades. lol

Becker's were really my first carbon steel blades. I've had tons of knives before this but they were mostly stainless steel. It think a lot of people are used to stainless steel knives and are not used to caring for a carbon steel knife.

Note: The BK-12 and ESEE's will rust a lot faster that the KA-BAR knives. That's for sure. Thank you added Cro-Van!

Anyway, that brings us to the stainless steel question.
There was a stainless S30V BK-7 made a few years ago. It didn't sell well and if you do find one they are usually asking around $250 for it.
The BK-13 is stainless and the BK-24 is D2 which is close to stainless.

In my experience stainless is a lot harder to sharpen than 1095 and is not as forgiving. Meaning I find most SS Blades more brittle and will chip out more.
So for a knife that is made to be beaten on and is able to be sharpened out in the field with little to no supplies (use a rock) the Carbon steel is the way to go.
Some SS blades are made to be beaten on too, but you are going to pay hundreds of dollars to get one.

MY answer is NO. I would not by stainless steel Becker's. I am really happy with the 1095 and since I do strip all my knives, I feel they need me to care for them, Like my little kids. haha Stainless blades don't need you. They are fine for years by them self. :) I like getting out and fondling and oiling my knives every few weeks. LOL Really, I do.

But I would buy a few BK-11's, BK-16's, and BK-15's in D2. I am happy with the D2. The smaller knives that are EDC's may do fine in stainless.

I can understand people living near the coast, like were I grew up, wanting a good stainless knife. But where I am now, I just don't need it.

And yes, I usually don't strip under the handle scales.

Also for a good outdoor's knife, the carbon steel blade is able to make a spark from a rock to make fire. That's a plus.

So for Becker knives to stay in the price point where they are and to be able to still be put to hard use, I don't think the stainless steel would work.
But I wouldn't mind seeing versions of them released uncoated with a nice stone wash finish. Would save me a lot of time stripping.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Dex, a very interesting and informative note. I did some checking and found the S30V BK-7. It was produced in 2009 as a "limited edition" and called BK-77. I did a further search to find out if anyone was selling one and couldn't find one. As to the BK13, I got one of those after I got my first Becker, the BK7 because the 13 was supposed to fit in the little pouch and I wanted to give the BK7 sheath every chance to seem acceptable before I gave up on it and stuffed it in my closet. I never did develop the knack of getting the 13 out of its sheath without risking a cut -- cut myself only once so far and leave it in my desk drawer with eating implements I found on hikes.

You wrote, "It is also easier for companies to store a knife that is coated. It would really suck if you opened that box for the new knife you just ordered and see rust all over the blade. So they would need to oil each one before they ship." I got a Damascus blade from Pakistan with mild rust on it once.

In regard to your comment that Stainless Steel is harder to keep an edge, I got some Buck knives back in the early 80s and always had trouble keeping an edge on my Buck 124 which I used more than my 119 and 120 -- I attributed that to my poor knife-sharpening skills however. :(

As to staying in a price point, Buck's 119 according to them has sold more than any other fixed bladed knife. Maybe because they sold so many they can drop the price relatively low, but there seems to be a big market in Buck Limited edition knives -- mostly better handle material as far as I could tell, but Buck people are willing to spend more for it. On the other hand, most of the Buck people I encountered on their forum are collectors and only very rarely users so that could be the difference. Special editions might not fair as well with Beckers.

If it were to rain on a day I was resolved to hike I would would probably take one of my SS Buck knives the way I'm thinking now. I've got water-proofed cameras as well. :D

Lawrence
 
I think a BK-4 could be made in 3V for $150 retail (not MSRP).
But I'd ask for a higher grind so it would really cut. They'd have to make them in quantity to let them go at that price, though.

I was shown a super fancy build-your-own Buck custom shop knife that was like $400... in 420HC. People are weird. I suppose it was a safe queen, so who cares.
 
The pioneers, mountain men, trappers and explorers carried carbon steel knives. They took care of them because their lives depended on a knife. I wouldn't worry too much about getting your Becker wet. Just wipe it off good when you are able to.
 
Most stainless steels don't impress me. They're either too soft and won't take/hold a decent edge - which has been my experience with AUS8 - or they're too
brittle for serious outdoors use.

I like some for blades in folders, such as Spyderco's VG10. Buck's 420HC is good stuff too.
 
Yup--Carbon steel Cro-Van for me.
There's really no maint. other than wipe down after use,Holds an edge good & easy to sharpen.
I don't need no Stainless!
 
turns out that most of the Beckers in non 1095 materials haven't always been the best sellers

plus they've been expensive compared to 1095 models...

though inexpensive compared to many other brands

people are weirdly fickle :D
 
I don't know a lot about all different steels and their properties, but if there was a SS that would perform well without making the knife too expensive I would consider buying it.

ZAKJAK221,
When I read your posts, I keep imagining a "mhmm" at the end.
I don't think those 'nanner blades' are stainless either.
 
In general, I would probably not be that interested in a stainless Becker, for the reasons articulated above.

Great post, Dex..... and that Machax in the photo 2nd from the top on the right is b'dass! I love the rounded swedge, almost a drop point. Killer! Can you talk about what/how you did that?
 
$tainle$$ is cool. The only knife I have in stainless that is not meant for the galley is a divers knife (other than my Buck Knives and a big Victorinox filet knife). That is about the only time I figure you really need to have a stainless knife, unless you just want one, in which case, party on Garth! :D Ok!

The BK13 is almost stainless I heard it said. Whoever ends up with my bare steel knives will just have to figure it out. Clean knife, sharpen knife, oil knife, use knife, repeat.
 
If the BK7 is ever make in the S30V steel again, I will buy one. I would certainly prefer the rest to be 1095 crovan. Perhaps the smaller one like 11 can be SS
 
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