Wrapping a handle and picking the correct epoxy question

[meismjg]

I bought a stick tang Lauri blade that I am using to make a puukko style knife. I would like to wrap the handle with jute twine, apply epoxy and wrap some more until I have a full handle.

I tried something similar to this before with fiberglass resin and the resin never fully cured, I think maybe because I live in Miami and it was like 99% humid outside. I bought some loctite epoxy that has a self mixing application nozzle which made it really easy to work with in the past but it does not say "non-toxic when cured". Finally I bought some Gorilla Glue epoxy that needs to be mixed by hand which makes it harder to work with than the loctite epoxy but the package says "non-toxic when cured". I have read that the Gorilla Glue epoxy might not resist liquid very well and the knife handle might get wet from sweat or other reasons.

What substance would be the best way to wrap the handle? Perhaps there is some sort of sealer that is non-toxic and hardens nicely that I can put over the fiberglass resin / loctite epoxy?

I really appreciate some input

Thanks!

 

[John Katt]

fiberglass resin needs to be thoroughly mixed, Any amount that is in the mixing container that didn't get mixed but was scraped out onto the project will remain uncured and tacky, The best way to avoid this is to pour the mixed resin out into a new container without scraping the sides of original mixing container

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The best resins for wrapped handles are quality grade commercial resins. Hobby grade from the hardware store are just asking for sticky handles. Use West System or System Three resin and you will be much happier. For impregnating ito and cord wrap, they excel, IMHO. System Three clear coat is excellent. Regular West system 105 resin and 206 slow cure hardener is also good. The clear coat comes in a small bottle set which meets the small makers needs better than buying quart cans of West System. The West system slow cure 206 hardener allows for careful application without rushing and drips.

Whichever resin you use, the first thing to do is mix it well, and as john pointed out, don't work from the mixing pot. Use two cups...one to mix and one to work from. I use the 2oz. take-out cups used for sauces, and they are perfect for mixing knife handle batches of epoxy. Many knife suppliers sell them, and the Big-box stores have them by the case. A case will last you and a dozen makes a lifetime, but they are pretty cheap by the case.

Once mixed, application is where people go wrong the most. It only takes a small amount of resin to impregnate the fibers. I use a disposable flux brush from HF and apply the resin sparingly. You want it to wick into the wrap, but not coat it. Brush on a very thin coating, turning the knife as you coat. It should soak in and disappear. If the handle gets a "wet" look, it has way too much resin. Keep a piece of cotton cloth handy, and when you think the handle is just right as to the amount of resin, wrap it in the cloth and squeeze hard. Remove ( and discard) the cloth and let the handle dry. I turn it every few minutes, looking for any drips ( which I blot up with cotton cloth) as the resin sets. Once the work pot of resin is set, I let the handle cure for a day or two. The final result is a wrap that looks like plain cord or ito, but is rock hard. I cringe when I see some of the resin coated handles in photos that are completely coated with a layer of "plastic" looking resin.

BTW, tape up the blade first, as it makes clean-up easier.

 

[meismjg]

Thanks! There are some boat stores and hobby shops around I will check for either of those types. I guess my first downfall was shopping at a big box hardware store that doesnt carry much selection .