WTB lansky stones

T

trains are bad

Joined
Jan 29, 2004
Messages
105
I need a stone between 280 and 600 grit. Where can I get one?

Is diamond good?

If I get a new arkansas can I really use it dry?
 
Diamond stones will cut VERY fast compared to arkensas/ceramic/whatever, I can give you that much...

I don't see why you need a lansky stone between those two grits, for knives, I usually start with 120 if I'm rebeveling and jump all the way to 600, skipping 280. Even if you're using tool steels at high hardnesses, it's kinda unneccessary.

Freehand, you've got A LOT to chose from. But I wouldn't spend too much on your lansky rig. I've got one with 5 stones (120/280/600/1000/2000), which I consider about optimal. But I'm trying to get into freehand, as I usually use my lansky stones in that fasion anyway (freehand). You can get a keen edge much faster and without reprofiling with freehand sharpening.
 
I don't think you need anything between 280 and 600. You'll find many stone sets don't have anything between ~300 and ~600 grit. Heck, I stop at 280 (medium) on my Lansky and had a shaving sharp, toothy edge.

Diamond is quick, and takes less pressure to cut with. And no need for honing oil.

You can use an arkansas without honing oil if it hasn't been treated with oil before you buy it. Once you use oil, you always need to use oil.
 
Well, maybe I don't.

See I use my knife (delica) every day at work cutting mostly rope. So I have to touch the edge up every night. I am concerned about sharpening it down. Stropping doesnt remove enough metal (too slow) and I don't like the polished edge. The 600 takes too long as well and 280 seems pretty aggressive and leaves an overly toothy edge. I was planning on just using an intermediate grit.
 
you could use sandpaper, 400 grit sprayglued onto a flat surface.

Oh, and maybe you could try steeling instead of sharpening every day, your blade should last longer
 
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