Just a quick question. I ran across a authentic Japanese Samarai sword today, which has a Damascus type folded blade, and a wooden handle and sheath. Admittedly it needs a bit of cleanup, but nothing bad. A bit of light sand paper and it would look new. Is there any intrinsic value for something like this, or are they a dime a dozen?
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WW2 Damascus Sword
- Thread starter Serengeti
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
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- 20,978
there are other was to preserve swords that are more acceptable/gentle.
WW2 era is not considered antique...and while not a dime a dozen....I wouldn't be worried about doing light cleanup...with some long-term maintenance figured in too.
Does it have any markings?
WW2 era is not considered antique...and while not a dime a dozen....I wouldn't be worried about doing light cleanup...with some long-term maintenance figured in too.
Does it have any markings?
STOP! Do not put any "sandpaper" or anything else of that nature on your sword! You would almost certainly destroy much, if not most, of its value by doing something so harsh to it. Only clean it with a soft cloth using a good preservative oil on the blade and metal fittings. Don't put oil on the handle. You need to consult someone who knows much more than I do about cleaning a sword of this description, someone on BladeForums or someone elsewhere. PROCEED WITH CAUTION!
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
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Hello Serengeti. If it is in wooden mounts, both handle (tsuka) and sheath
(saya), they could be storage mounts for the blade, also known as shira-saya. The sword may not be of WWII vintage but could be older. You definitely need to have it looked at before doing anything. And as Daniel said do not use sandpaper on it. Just use a light oil and soft cloth to try and clean the blade. The sandpaper will destroy any of the original polish that is there.
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
(saya), they could be storage mounts for the blade, also known as shira-saya. The sword may not be of WWII vintage but could be older. You definitely need to have it looked at before doing anything. And as Daniel said do not use sandpaper on it. Just use a light oil and soft cloth to try and clean the blade. The sandpaper will destroy any of the original polish that is there.
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
All I'm sure of is that it is sitting in a local country trading depot, and when asked about it I was told that it came from an old gentleman who picked it up on the battlefield of Iwo Jima, and that it was an officers sword. Though the blade does have a bit of rust, and only a small amout on the surface, it's still extremely sharp. The folded pattern is very lightly etched. Like I said, the handle is not cord wrapped, it is a black lacquered wood, it appears, matching the same type sheath. I do not have this sword in my possesion, I just thought it a bit strange that something like this would be sitting on a bottom shelf of a local country store. It does have markings on the upper section of the blade, prior to meeting the guard. It appears to have been stamped into the blade and in Japanese, characters are about 9mm in height. They are wanting 180 for it. Keep in mind I wasnt looking for a sword, I just thought it odd, and since I am extremely interest in all things with blades, I just had to ask.
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- Feb 27, 2003
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Where is STeven, when we need him?
If it is genuine, for $180 you really can't miss. I would buy it.
Get as much information as you can about its history and specifically the previous owner. Do absolutely NOTHING to the sword except look at it and take digital images. As the WW2 generation dies, it is common to see great collectibles sold off by ignorant heirs. You might have a real find, but it will take some research.
P
If it is genuine, for $180 you really can't miss. I would buy it.
Get as much information as you can about its history and specifically the previous owner. Do absolutely NOTHING to the sword except look at it and take digital images. As the WW2 generation dies, it is common to see great collectibles sold off by ignorant heirs. You might have a real find, but it will take some research.
P
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2001
- Messages
- 588
Like the others have said DO NOT TOUCH IT WITH SAND PAPER!! Any folded sword weather old or new is worthmore than the asking price. As someone above said it could be an old sword in plain fittings. I suspect that with stamped caracters it is not worth a whole lot but then maybee? If the owner would let you remove the handle and look at the tang it would help to know weather or not it is signed. If signed then it is definatley worth the asking price.
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2001
- Messages
- 816
Buy the sword, then buy a sword cleaning kit. They aren't expensive and you won't damage the blade. If it is a folded blade, then it is worth enjoying. Do a little research and it may be like Christmas morning when you really learn what you are looking at. Until then, just don't do anything to damage the blade.
Sword polishing is an extensive process and it's techniques are personal to each blade. The entire process is meant to bring out the details in the steel whcih means the stones used are to cut the surface of the steel without putting in deep scratches or burnishing the surface. Sandpaper will do both. It will put in deep scratches and burnish the surface and mute the details of the steel. Even 2000 grit paper is out of the question. The final stones in a traditional polish range from 6000-8000 grit, but the cutting action is far different from sandpaper.
Once you learn a little about these blades, you may deem your worthy of a trip to a polisher. It will cost a few hundred dollars, but that will also add to the value of the sword, and given your low buying price, you won't loose anything. Hell, if you want to turn a quick trick, I would probably double your money for you. Send me some detailed pics if you want. We'll talk
Sword polishing is an extensive process and it's techniques are personal to each blade. The entire process is meant to bring out the details in the steel whcih means the stones used are to cut the surface of the steel without putting in deep scratches or burnishing the surface. Sandpaper will do both. It will put in deep scratches and burnish the surface and mute the details of the steel. Even 2000 grit paper is out of the question. The final stones in a traditional polish range from 6000-8000 grit, but the cutting action is far different from sandpaper.
Once you learn a little about these blades, you may deem your worthy of a trip to a polisher. It will cost a few hundred dollars, but that will also add to the value of the sword, and given your low buying price, you won't loose anything. Hell, if you want to turn a quick trick, I would probably double your money for you. Send me some detailed pics if you want. We'll talk