WWII Japanese Sword, what did I just buy?

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So I was waiting for a background check on a gun purchase when I guy walked in wanting to sell a shotgun and a sword that were both his grandfathers and they wouldn’t give him anything for them so I followed him out the door and asked what he’d like for them and paid him his asking price.

He said his grandfather brought it back from the war and hung it up in his living room but wouldn’t tell him how he got it which makes me think he smoked whoever it belonged to and didn’t want to tell him that. I can’t find a lot about it other than that it appears to be a Japanese Type 95 NCO’s sword. It has an aluminum handle and the numbers on the sword match the numbers on the sheath.

Should there be makers markings or unit numbers or anything? If so where would they be?

Any idea what it’s worth? I see some on eBay for $2k-$3k+ but I’m sure there’s a lot of factors in basing the value.

 
Can't discuss value at your membership level. You can use successful eBay sales as a guide, but be aware folks can ask unrealistic prices for these swords.
 
It looks to be an oil quenched mono steel blade, so it may not be as valuable as an older Nihonto (folded steel, Hamon, etc) would be?

See the pin by your thumb? If you remove that, you should be able to remove the tsuka (handle) and show us the tang. They are often signed/identified on the tang, which will give us a lot more info for you!
 
I pulled the pin and the handle doesn’t seem to want to come off. I don’t want to force anything and risk damaging it.
 
Check to see if there is a 2nd pin lower on the handle? I am not as familiar with the WW2 mounts.

Many times the wood gets stuck to the tang. Look around 4:24 in this video:
 
From the Japanese sword guide:

Prior to 1945, NCO shin-gunto, non-commissioned officers swords, have all metal tsukas (handles) made to resemble the traditionally cloth wrapped shin-gunto swords. The first model had an unpainted copper hilt. On later models the hilts were made of aluminum and painted to resemble the lacing (ito) on officer's shin-gunto swords. These swords will have serial numbers on their blades and are ALL machine made, without exception. The serial numbers are simple assembly or manufacturing numbers; they are not serial numbers of blades as issued to specific soldiers. If the sword is all original, the serial numbers on the blade, tsuba, saya and all other parts should match.

Value in Japanese sword terms will be nominal.
 
Yours is a Tokyo Arsenal 2A, Type 95 NCO, authorized in 1935. The tsuka can be removed, but it is probably not worth bothering with as it is nontraditionally made. They have no value to collectors of antique Japanese swords.

Military collectors are the only group which have an interest in these. They have gone up in value over the years from when they were sold in nearly every pawn shop for $10 each.
 
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Yours is a Tokyo Arsenal 2A, Type 95 NCO, authorized in 1935. The tsuka can be removed, but it is probably not worth bothering with as it is nontraditionally made. They have no value to collectors of antique Japanese swords.

Military collectors are the only group which have an interest in these. They have gone up in value over the years from when they were sold in nearly every pawn shop for $10 each.

Thanks for the info. A local military collectibles guy said the same thing. He’s got a collector that said would buy it if the price is right. I’m seeing several recent listings where they’ve sold on eBay for $900-$950 plus shipping and tax and also where one on griffin militaria sold for $895 but is missing the rear swivel hook thing.

Is $800 cash a fair price to put on it for a local deal? I really don’t like to do the haggling game and prefer to just set a reasonable price and let the buyer decided if it’s worth it to them or not.
 
As pointed out earlier, you can’t discuss value with your membership level.

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