XM-18 -- How much adjustment (tuning) did you need to do?

Sloop

Sloop

Joined
Sep 27, 2017
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I couldn't get my flipper to open the blade without wrist action. I know there is a technique on the way you push your finger down, but I tried every way I could think of. I ended up disassembling the knife and adding gun oil to the pivot screw, etc. per a video that I watched.
On re-assembly, I found there is a sweet spot you need to achieve when tightening the screw. I added a very small amount of blue Loc-tite and the flipping is closer now to what I see in the videos. As I understand, the knife needs a period of break-in, so hopefully after that, it will be even easier. I can now get it to snap flip without any wrist action although it is a wee bit painful on the finger.
 
I have five Hinderers & they all needed some break-in, but they'll likely not flip as easily as a ZT bearing flipper. I'm perfectly OK with that. I think you'll find that after some use, you'll be tightening up the pivot again.
 
It'll get better with use. And yes, like half a degree turn on the pivot can go from way to tight, to just right.. I usually err on the side of making it on the *slightly* tighter side myself...and let it break in. They will never flip like a ZT or something on bearings though...I'm OK with that. I like the vault like lock up.
 
I typically spend about 15-20 minutes on each of my Hinderers when I get them. Break them down completely, clean them completely, lube them, apply Loctite to the pivot, then go to work on finding that sweet spot. After that I let them sit for a full day (no flipping, no opening at all) and after that they are great. As has been stated, Hinderers aren't going to flip like they are on bearings, however you can get awfully close (or at least I have been lucky on mine).
 
I think alot of comes down to what you perceive as blade play. Like you can get an XM-18 to flip amazing, and check for blade play...doesn't seem to be any. Then, tighten the pivot EVER SO SLIGHTLY, and now the flipping action is just OK, but now the lockup is like a damn VAULT....haha...and you feel like, THAT, is how it should be. Maybe people probably chose the first option with great flipping action, and pretty much no blade play at all.
 
Pivot tightness is just one factor affecting the flipping action. I feel the detent is more important, e.g., benting the lock bar can make a bigger difference.
 
sharp_edge said:
Pivot tightness is just one factor affecting the flipping action. I feel the detent is more important, e.g., benting the lock bar can make a bigger difference.
Click to expand...

If when locked, the lock bar half way covers the back of the flipper -- isn't that exactly where it should be? I don't want to start bending a piece not knowing how much pressure to apply.
 
Please do not degrade this into another "value of the Hinderer brand" discussion. The OP didn't ask about the value, he asked about flipping action tuning

Edit: Mine is still super new and it is still a slow flipper, but I really don't care. If a blade rides on washers, it ain't snappin' open like a Reate. Hell, if you could believe it, I've even seen Shiros on washers fail to deploy. It's not like it's a Hinderer specific thing.

As far as tuning mine goes, I'm going to avoid doing anything to it for a while and see how it goes. I will tinker later on
 
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