Yet another anodizer thread

Murnax

Murnax

Joined
Jan 27, 2003
Messages
1,277
I've spent some time searching the old threads about anodizers, and there is some good information to be had here. However, I'm still a little unsure if I know everything I need to know to get started, so I hope you don't mind another thread about anodizers.

I was going to buy this unit from reactive metals: http://www.reactivemetals.com/Pages/rmsmini.htm

But then another member here on BF pointed me to this site which appears to have the same unit for much less: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/webtronics/lowcosioubep.html

However, on the cheaper site it doesn't appear to come with the isolating transformer that reactivemetals.com provides. I'm not sure what the isolating transformer does, though, so I'm hoping someone here can tell me if this is a necessary part.

Once I pick a unit, I'm also planning on buying the mini grabber from reactive metals to hold the piece I'm anodizing, some tsp, anodizing tape, and a good set of rubber gloves. Any pieces I'm forgetting that I should also pick up?
 
i was looking to build an anodizer but at that price maybe i ll just buy one
that is if it truely is what i will be needing
 
You need a variac (PN: 99N006): http://www.alltronics.com/transformers1.htm $50 and it's 5amp, excellent quality, has built in volt meter and everything.

Then a full wave bridge like Jason's. You're good to go.

Oh yeah I was able to mount the bridge and an AC/DC switch inside the unit for etching. Made for a nice little package for about $70.

Steve
 
Murnax,
I saw no mention of an isolation transformer on the Reactive page, or the user guide.
I can see no need for one, as the outputs of the power supply are isolated from ground unless you connect the + or - (red or black) connection to the power supply earth gound (green connector.
The two power supplies are the same.
The home-made versions will accomplish the same result for much less.
You have to make sure you've got no exposed components, but other than that, it will work fine.
 
Here's where reactivemetals mentions the isolating transformer: http://www.reactivemetals.com/Data_Instructions/Anodizers/d_mini_instru.htm#

Its a little ways down after the first red highlighted section. I realize I could make one for a little less, and I'm reasonably sure I could build it without much trouble. However, I just feel a little safer buying a ready to go package for slightly more.

Mr. Howell...Thats a great tutorial you've written. I've actually read it before, and since your tutorial as well as a few others I've read on building an anodizer never mentioned an isolating transformer, thats why I thought it might not be necessary.
 
I have noticed that most isolation transformers cost over $100 + s.h. at the electrical supply's and approx. $60 used + s.h. on ebay, for a 4 amp model that is generally needed for an anodizer.

But after much searching on the internet, I did find and purchased a new Stancor GIS-500va unit, 4.35 amp, from a website in Washington state. It was only 24.95. They were very reasonable on the shipping to Texas approx. $13.

http://www.pringledist.com/educ.htm

I have no affilation with them, just wanted to pass on some information that may help some of you that provide so much good info on this forum.

Thanks,
Kelly Waters
 
The output of the rectifier is NOT a proper isolated supply. The positive and negative terminals of the rectifier bridge are at the same potential (give or take about 0.7V) of the peak voltages that appear at the inputs to the rectifier. If the wiring is done correctly, all the way from the input to your breaker pannel of your house through to the ouput of the variac, then the output of the rectifier would be referenced to the neutral and would remain near the earth potential. If the wiring is reversed somewhere, the whole output of your rectifier would be referenced to the hot wire of your mains supply. This would mean that the 10Vdc output from your rectifier would really be riding on 110Vac and either the positive or negative outputs of the rectifier would be LETHAL to touch. The isolation transformer eliminates the possiblility of having a direct connection to the mains. The variac provides no isolation since the output is just a tap on the same winding as the input. If you have some understanding of electricity, draw out the whole schematic, from your breaker panel through to the rectifier output. Then reverse the hot and neutral somewhere and you will see what I mean.

The Stancor isolating transformer that Kelly found would probably be fine.

Phil
 
Murnax,
The isolation transformer was to be used with the older mini-anodizer, which is not the power supply on the micro-anodizer page.
That is an error on their pages that used to point to the mini-anodizer, which has been replaced by the SMT micro-anodizer...
The power supply or micro-anodizer requires no isolation transformer.
It's already isolated from ground, so you woun't have ground loop problem as was the case with the min-anodizer.
The Circuit-Specialists CSI12001X is the best value of the two.
If you build the one on the Howell Knives page, and it is done properly, an isolation transformer is not necessay, but it will give an added measure of protection from shock hazard, as explained by pso.
 
Fellas,
I'm trying to decide on one of the two models, listed in the first post of this thread. Has anyone decided on which one is the better unit? It looks to me like the reactive metals unit might be a little better choice, for those of use who are electronically challenged...
 
Other than the labels on the bezel around the readout, they are identcal, and manufactured by the same company. ;)
If you read both the .pdf instruction sheets, you'll find they have the same model number...CSI12001X
Kind of cuts the choice down to who puts the least mark-up on it... :D
 
any coments on the out-put amp's? on the DC end after the bridge of those two units?
when I made mine I when with a 5 amp output variac so I know no differant from what I have now..

the 0-4 and a 0-7 is some big money on those sites or am I reading something wrong here? :confused:
 
Dan Gray said:
any coments on the out-put amp's? on the DC end after the bridge of those two units?
when I made mine I when with a 5 amp output variac so I know no differant from what I have now..

the 0-4 and a 0-7 is some big money on those sites or am I reading something wrong here? :confused:
Click to expand...
From what I've read, the current only controls how long it takes for the color to appear. So less current means you'll have to hold the piece in the bath longer. I haven't actually done any anodizing yet, but that is my understanding. I ordered one of these units yesterday, so I'll let everyone know how it works out when I get it.
 
Hey Murnax
Did you also end up ordering just the following parts from reactive metals?

mini grabber from reactive metals to hold the piece I'm anodizing, some tsp, anodizing tape, and a good set of rubber gloves.

OR did you order some other necessary stuff?

I'm looking forward to hearing your results with this unit, and how easy it is to learn the colors, etc.
Keep us informed brother! Good luck, and thanks!!
 
razorhunter said:
Hey Murnax
Did you also end up ordering just the following parts from reactive metals?
mini grabber from reactive metals to hold the piece I'm anodizing, some tsp, anodizing tape, and a good set of rubber gloves.
OR did you order some other necessary stuff?
I'm looking forward to hearing your results with this unit, and how easy it is to learn the colors, etc.
Keep us informed brother! Good luck, and thanks!!
Click to expand...
I ordered all that except the rubber gloves because I'm sure I can find those locally. I haven't thought of anything else I'd need. I'll keep you posted after I get it, though.
 
Well I thought I'd update this thread now that I've received my anodizer. Just FYI for anyone considering purchasing this equipment, the mini grabber is really too small for knife handles. I made my own titanium hook to hold things.

The power supply seems to work well. I anodized a few scrap pieces of Ti at low voltages (20-30) with no problems.

I'm having a problem with larger pieces, though. I want to anodize a set of handles from a Benchmade 47, but its just not working. The scraps I anodized were about 1/4 the size of one of these handles. Whenever I stick the BM handle in the bath it won't go above about 7 volts. With the smaller pieces it started out at low voltages and worked its way up to the voltage I set, and color appeared almost immediately and changed as it worked its way up the voltages. This behavior is what I expected after reading the instructions for anodizing on reactivemetals site.

When I stick in the BM handles it reads 1 Amp, and if only a small corner of the handle is in the bath it read about 18 volts and as its submerged more it goes down to about 7 volts and nothing else happens (regardless of what the voltage is set to). Any ideas why it won't work? I'm going to be pretty disappointed if a BM bali handle is too large for this power supply.
 
...but what about just making sure that you run you power supply off of a GFIC. That should help protect you from potential shock right?
 
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