Yet another Edge Pro – Apex review (long).

yog

Joined
Mar 30, 2001
Messages
423
I’m a long time Spyderco Sharpmaker user, but sometimes you come across knives that don’t have exactly 30deg or 40deg edge bevels, and as the Sharpmaker isn’t necessarily the best at re-profiling I thought I would get an Edge Pro Apex with the stone upgrade kit. I would also strongly recommend getting the instructional video (comes as part of the Pro set), as it’s worth it’s weight in gold.

For those of you not familiar with the Apex, it’s a waterstone based sharpener where you hold the knife in one hand on the supporting bed and move the metal arm which holds the waterstone back and forth with the other hand, the angle of sharpening is adjusted by moving the pivot point of the metal arm up and down to suit, as it’s a simple thumb screw clamp that holds the pivot you can sharpen at any angle you want, although there are about six presets marked on the pivot spindle.
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Considering that this is meant to be the budget version of Edge Pro’s “Pro” sharpener I found the Apex to be very well put together. The body is of thick hard plastic, all the sliding elements slide well for adjustment, but just as importantly lock quickly and tightly when you are happy with their positions. The whole thing came in a neat carry case which included everything you would need to travel with your Apex, right down to water bottle and cleaning cloth, even as far as to include some sand to flatten out your waterstones when they become worn.

After watching the video a couple times I was ready to start, although I did have some worries. The part where you hold and move the knife across the supporting bed (adjusting the angle where necessary to keep the blade perpendicular to the waterstone) with the left hand and move the pivoted arm back and forth with the right hand seemed do’able, but I was not so sure I could do it the other way around (right holding knife, left moving arm) in order to sharpen the other side.
I needn’t have worried, after the first knife the action became second nature either way around. Like the maker Ben Dale says in the video, you can go as slow as you like until you are comfortable, but by the third knife I was zipping along and finding the motion quite therapeutic, a bit like stropping, the forth knife I hardly remember doing at all.

Even though the kit I purchased came with 5 grades of waterstone and a set of polishing tapes, I thought I might skip some stones as it looked a hassle to change them. As it happens changing the stones was a breeze, a few seconds work only, I would have wasted a lot more time using too fine a stone taking out larger scratches if I had skipped any grades.
This was the first time I had used waterstones and I found them extremely good. With the stone upgrade kit you have a wide range to work with, from coarse, which cuts metal like a hot knife cuts butter, to the 600 grit that puts a semi polished edge on the blade. The polishing tapes are also great, and put a literal mirror finish on the edge bevel.

I had four medium sized folders in dire need of re-profiling, and as luck would have it they were 4 different steels, ATS-34, VG-10, S30V and CPM440V.
I was interested to see how the Apex would cope with the various steels I was going to re-profiling, and I was interested in how the steels would differ from one another. In the end the only disappointment was that the Apex went through them all so quickly that I couldn’t determine any difference in the steels.

I had heard that waterstones could be a bit messy and that the slurry produced could scratch the blades as you moved them across the support bed, I kept a paper towel beside me when I sharpened and every time I turned over the knife I wiped it in the towel and hardly had either problem. Even the very slight scratching I had could have been eliminated by taping the back of the blade as suggested on the video for when you sharpen expensive knives.

My intension was to use the Apex to re-profile blades to either 30degs or 40degs and use the Sharpmaker for day-to-day sharpening. Whilst the Sharpmaker is slightly faster to set up and produces no mess at all, I was so impressed with the results of the Apex that I can see it taking over a lot of my day-to-day sharpening.
If you do have a need to re-profile some of the toughest cutlery steels on the market today, or just want that mirror polished finish with very little effort, then I would strongly recommend the Edge Pro Apex.
 
yog :

... the Apex went through them all so quickly that I couldn t determine any difference in the steels.

The coarse stone and the ability to lean into the action easily makes the cutting speed very fast, many times faster than the Sharpmaker for example. The other great positive is that you can directly see what you are honing, which speeds up the process mentally as the progress is obvious.

... I was so impressed with the results of the Apex that I can see it taking over a lot of my day-to-day sharpening.

With the Apex setup, and the stones in soak, it just just pop the blade on the support and take few passes to lightly hone the edge, same time as the Sharpmaker.

It does cost a lot more than what you might be thinking of for a sharpener, but it is not like you are paying this yearly. You buy one and that is it. The only continuing cost is a replacement for the coarse hone, and it will take a long time to wear it away as it is decently thick.

Nice review.

-Cliff
 
You don't need to raise the edge up, and the stones can be flattened on anything abrasive. I use a concrete block and some fine sand or SiC lapping compound. You can also use sandpaper on plate glass.

-Cliff
 
The coarse stone and the ability to lean into the action easily makes the cutting speed very fast, many times faster than the Sharpmaker for example. The other great positive is that you can directly see what you are honing, which speeds up the process mentally as the progress is obvious.

I think this is what I found was one of the better features of the Apex. With the stone above the knife so I had a clear view of things and the ability of going as slow as I liked without fear of the angle changing due to a shaky hand, I felt I had a tremendous amount of control. If an area needed a bit more attention I could go straight to the spot and feather in a couple extra strokes.
 
How small of a knife can you do? Also, how does it handle the tips of a knife, particularly those that are significantly curved. I have used a Lansky for years now and it works O.K. I was interested in the EdgePro systems when I bought the Lansky and have also read the Razor's Edge book. I also would like to get a Sharpmaker for touch-ups. I reclamp the Lansky as I move along the blade, but it has problems near the tips of knives particularly if they have some curve or taper to them, and you can't clamp onto real small blades. I fully believe that some day I'll have the Lansky, sharpmaker and Apex.:rolleyes:
 
The smallest knife I sharpened with the Apex had a 2.5" blade, but on the instruction video it showed a blade that looked to be around 1.5" being sharpened.

As for tips, if the knife is a little longer than the support table (about 2.5"), then you can leave it in one place and do the whole thing without moving the knife.
If the knife is smaller than the support bed or has a very upswept tip, then you just treat it like a large knife and move the angle of the blade gradually to present the tip perpendicular to the waterstone.
This was the action that gave me pause for thought watching the video before I had actually used it. It generally takes me a while to develope hand-eye co-ordination with a new skill, but in this case it was far easier to do than it looked (or even easier to do than it is to describe it here :D ). As said earlier, moving the blade with one hand whilst moving the sharpening arm with the other hand quickly became second nature and aforded me much more precision than I had known with other systems.
 
Funny enough that was my first question to Ben Dale (Edge Pro maker) after I had used it a few times. I don't currently own a recurve but I keep meaning to pick up a BM 710HS. Here's his reply :

"Your Edge Pro stones will do recurves. I have done many Emmerson Commanders
with them. They only cut on the edge of the stone when you go through the
recurve but it works just fine. However it is harder to get as nice a finish
in the recurve area as you will on the rest of the knife, so for all the
fanatics out there I have started stocking 1/2" wide stones in 320 and 600.
These stones are 1/4" thick so they can easily be given any shape you want
by grinding them with the sand."

That is another great thing about the Edge Pro brand, not only will Ben sharpen you a knife free of charge even if you decide not to by his product, but he is very willing to chat about sharpening via e-mail. Ben often has other bits and pieces for sale not listed on his site and a quick chat with him will often get you just what you need.
 
I was a little concerned with sharpening recurves with mine at first, but the process is exactly the same as with non-recurves. The only difference is that the corners of the stone will be cutting vs. the flat surface, but it makes no difference at all. It's exceptional with recurves.
 
Yog:
Excellent review!
Yog
As for tips, if the knife is a little longer than the support table (about 2.5"), then you can leave it in one place and do the whole thing without moving the knife... and move the angle of the blade gradually to present the tip perpendicular to the waterstone.
Knife Tips: while I think the EdgePro is the best thing since sliced bread, I still haven’t completely mastered honing curved tips. Initially, in my zest to sharpen everything with my new EdgePro, I found that I was rounding the tips on some of my folders. This was apparent in my blades that had more obtuse tips, like the large blade on a SAK. So, I tried to compensate by altering my style when honing with the EdgePro near the blade tip. But, in trying to avoid adding more curve to the blade by honing off metal around the blade point, I found that there’s a risk of putting flat spots near the tip. So, for me, the safest method still for setting a smooth bevel near the blade tip is with a benchstone. I hone with the blade tip-first, then as I push across the stone, sweep the blade so I end up honing the straight section last (nearest the choil). By alternating between these styles; tip-first, tip-last, with equal strokes, I can preserve the shape of the blade tip.
AnklePocket
I was a little concerned with sharpening recurves with mine at first, but the process is exactly the same as with non-recurves. The only difference is that the corners of the stone will be cutting vs. the flat surface,...
Recurved blades: I have found that the standard EdgePro stones are a bit wide for recurves on small to medium size blades. This puts a lot of pressure between the stone edges and recurved parts of the blade, resulting in some loss of control when honing. Consequently, I end up with more irregular bevels around the recurves. (Plus the 3000x strips were impossible to use on recurved sections.) To try to address this, I got an extra 3000x blank from Ben Dale, which I will grind the sides to shape it more like a half-round file. On this modified half-round blank I can affix Carbon-Silicon sanding strips with spray adhesive (as well as the 3000x strips). This way I could exchange strips and have a range of grits to hone my recurved blades. Conceptually, this felt like a better solution than purchasing narrower stones from Ben, and grinding their sides for use on recurved blades. (Grinding one blank to accomodate many CSi grits VS grinding several stones.) I'll post more when I finish the modified blank and try it out.

TT2Toes
 
TT2 is right about sharpening tips, particulary when you are reprofiling the blade and taking off a bit of steel. The EdgePro will sharpen tips well - I have seen Ben Dale do this to three knives I own.

Also, the regular waterstones have sharpened M2 (61-62 RC), CPM420V, and Talonite without a problem.

Ben also has diamond stones if you wish, but I have not yet seen the need.
 
Has anyone had any Edge Pro experience with Scandinavian knives (Puukka, Mora, etc) with their "flat" grinds?
 
Ichor,

no personal experience, but by talking with Ben and seeing him sharpen in person, scandanavian/norwegian traditional style edge profiles should not be a problem, IMO. You will have to match the edge bevel used on the knife to the Edge Pro arm, and you should be in business. If anything, the Edge pro should keep the edge bevel true and flat.
 
Yog,

Your review helped me decide to buy an EdgePro. If all goes well, it will be at the homestead on Friday and I'll be coated in aluminum-oxide and begging neighbors to let me put a razor edge on their butter knives by Sunday morning.
 
Originally posted by thombrogan
Yog,

Your review helped me decide to buy an EdgePro. If all goes well, it will be at the homestead on Friday and I'll be coated in aluminum-oxide and begging neighbors to let me put a razor edge on their butter knives by Sunday morning.

Let us know how you progress. I'm just on the verge of buying one too.
 
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Originally posted by roshi
How does the Apex do on recurve blades?
----------------

While I haven't tried this on my EdgePro, somewhere on the forums I read that if you remove the little brass spacer sleeve next to the handle the clamp part of an EdgePro becomes long enough to mount Spyderco Sharpmaker triangular stones. The corners of the triangular rods would certainly work well traversing a recurve edge. Just keep sweeping it along the edge or you'll invent your own serration pattern wherever you pause its progress. ;)

If you wanted coarse recurve reprofiling, you could also score & snap a coarse stone rod (butcher steel shaped) to length and clamp it in the EdgePro. I've got an insanely coarse stone rod from Smith's IIRC that I never use freehand, so it's a decent candidate for such a treatment. I guess you could also try the same trick with a Hewlett three-grit triangular diamond rod sharpener.
 
I have an idea for sharpening recurve blades with the EdgePro.
I have not built this yet and it is all theory....but here goes.

Get hold of an aprox 9 inch long piece of aluminium round rod
7/8th inch in diameter. Drill a hole in one end the same diameter as the Edge Pro guide rod ( 5/16 th inch I believe )

Now get a 9 inch length of 5/16 th drill rod and put in hole.

Now get some 325 and 600 silicon carbide wet and dry paper with PSA basking and stick this on the rod, half one side ,half the other.

Now when you need to delicately work on the recurve you substitute the original guide rod for the one I have just discribed. Make up a handle and off you go.

If you use 7/8 th inch diameter rod, the angles of the EgdePro will be the same as the standard hones.

You now have a round hone with two grit sizes and it should work perfectly on the curves.

Comments please?
 
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