the basic 9 has a factory edge, because thats the type of edge i like my big choppers to have, slightly overly built, but finished well. by steeling properply and leather honing, the busse factory assymetrical edge, wich in a dull state cant cut butter, becuase a very lively high performing cutting and chopping edge that is very strong.
i have my 1/4 saber le sj at 21 degree's primary, and 17 degrees secondary beveling. i considered making it a full convex on my handamerican once i had finished with it, but its to much effort for the little gain id get from it. and i liked the mirror polish i can get with beveling
thing about the satin jack vs. basic nine is that the satin jack has a whats closer to a zero edge the the basic 9 (my definition of zero edge = pukko style single bevel to edge,meaning an extremely small amount of metal behind the initial edge), so at the same angle, the sj will be inherently sharper for shallow cuts, because the initial wedge factory is smaller. on a whole though the basic 9 could be made much sharper because its a broader blade that is thinner farther up then the saber ground sj.
ive been impressed with the satin jacks performance with its new edge. like i said, the standard factory edge can be made extremely lively, but once its dulled its literally absolutly uses with its initial mirror polishing. you can help that by putting a gritted edge - but thats not something i really want since maintainance of a polished edge is available to me. and if it ever fails, i have my leathermans thin blade for rounded edge cutting (where you wedge it appart regardless of how dull you knife is).
i feel that you would honestly see and feel a noticable increase in the knifes cutting and chopping ability, but it would be at the cost of edge strength. cliff stamps basic 7 review is a good example of edge modifications effect. his basic end statment - i was unhappy with the performance of the factory edge, so i modified it to be thinner (this does however include the actual main grind bevels of the knife, up to the spine). - after the knife was broken after 2 1/2 years of abuse - it took a long time and a lot of hardcore beating to break this knife, but had it been factory geometry, it would have taken longer.
but thats the basic problem your gonna find with sharpening any blade. personally , im happy with the edge my basic 9 has on it. i just need to get better at placing momentum, weight, and accuracy to fully realize the potential of it, and the blade itelf. that satin jack kinda did need to be rebeveled to get it out of the "sharpened crowbar" catagory. it is now in the "sharpened
prybar" catagory
. i sharpened it after dark nemesis said "my knives are normally razor sharp, so all i need is the middle to tip area of the edge to make the cut". not what i was talkign about when i said it (i go forward to set the cut and make sure it doesnt slip off before getting finished), but it made me realize my knives arent sharp enough right now...
man i sure talk alot...
basically, their both great knives. i like infi better out of principle, but from what i understand, cpm3v is close to it in most aspects. the workmanship on the fermans compared to the ergo line would probably be a higher level because busse's were done on a high production level, fit and finish being based on performance, not on the higher level of "collector" fit and finishing that they are able to do now since they are offeroning only 1 or two knives per month. im pretty sure fermans have flush tangs, wich the ergo's didnt, though i beleive all the new busse's will.
like i said, the fermans are more comparable to the ergo's, and as far as that comparison goes, the ferman will have better fit and finish, and probably better ergonimics because of it. they steels are good enough that you probably will never be able to take the knife to its limits to see the real potential of them, so your choice should be dependent onhow they feel in your hand, and how you think they will perform having held them.
fermans compared to teh new line of busse's though, busse all the way. more thought has gone into the grips, and the blade shapes are all unique to busse. and the fit and finish has been raised considerably.
) and that I know will be around for years to come. Not that I've ever used any of their warranty services but it is nice to know they'll be around if needed.
Busse knives have a long-term well-established reputation. 
... thats what i get for running my finger across the blade... i currently carry a 1/4" saber ground satin jack, and with the edge i put on it, it will initiate a cut just as easily as a 1/8" fully flat ground blade with the same primary edge angle. the wedging factor - for me - is worth it since i can do major chopping with the satin jack as it is. the 3/16 sj is an excellent slicer. and as was said before, the active duty is 1/8" if you need slicing as a priority.