Yet another "wiring a motor" thread

Core Knife Co.

Core Knife Co.

Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
1,367
I've completed my build on the No Weld Grinder with the exception of the wiring.

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I am completely stuck. I don't have the slightest clue on electrical wiring and I'm admittedly a little nervous about it. I've read though the search results however it just adds to my confusion as each one if a little different.

Here is the information on the motor

North American Electrical, Inc.
Model: F56CH2S4C
Volt: 115/208-230
SF Amps: 18.8/10.5-9.5
BRG: DE/ODE: 6203/6203

HP: 2
RPM: 1745
Frame: 56CH
Encl: TEFC
H2: 60
PH: 1
Amps: 16.5/9.2-8.3
SF: 1.15
DES: L
Class: F
Code: H
LBS: 47

As far as the wiring for the house garage, these is no 220 to the garage and the plug is not GFCI protected.

Anyone here familiar with this type of situation that can walk me through it and give me an idea on a parts list?

Thank you,
 
Well you really should use a switch to power the motor on and off, but you could wire it stright through from the motor to the plug.

-12/3 SO service cable in appropriate length (black overall insulation three wires inside hot, common, and ground)
-NEMA Plug 5-15P (will work but it is not technically the correct plug as it is only rated for 15 amps) a NEMA 5-20P is the proper one (check your circuit breaker size, and receptacle to see if it is "5-15/20R")

That is the bare minimum get your motor running stuff.

Do you want to use a switch box?
 
Well a Home Depot guy could help you with the switch part. It just needs to be rated to carry the load you are running (20 amp switch), install it in a weathertight single gang box and put a switch plate cover over it. buy enough liquidtight and two connectors to run other wire from the outlet of the switch box to the knock-out on the motor (this wire can be standard THHN 12 ga. rather than the SO cable, or if you prefer you could buy three compression fittings and run SO cable throughout your set up.

All of your conduit and connectors will likely be 1/2"
 
Ron, I appreciate your help. I'm off to see what I can dig up at the hardware store. Knowing my electrical skills, I'll be checking in soon.

EDIT: I check the breaker and it's rated 5/15. I'm going to look into changing it to a 5/20.
 
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I was in the same boat! Thats why I went with Wayne Coe and had hime set me up with the wiring set up and motor. It should be here any day he says :) But I did do some research and it is surprising how little there is on how to wire a toggle switch to a motor. People probably think it is so easy, but I am electric ignorant....lol

Take a look at Beaumont sight and they have a pict of what you need http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/

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Thanks, Avigil

I had family who dealt with an electrical fire when I was younger and I've been freaked out by it ever since. I'm having a electrician friend or a friend come by tomorrow and shoot me a price for running 220v 7' from the panel to the bench. Ron, would 220 change anything that you suggested above?
 
Core Knife Co. said:
Thanks, Avigil

I had family who dealt with an electrical fire when I was younger and I've been freaked out by it ever since. I'm having a electrician friend or a friend come by tomorrow and shoot me a price for running 220v 7' from the panel to the bench. Ron, would 220 change anything that you suggested above?
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I would go with the "electrician friend" over the "friend." That short run should make it very affordable. He should know what switch to get.
 
Michael, way to go! You got that thing put together pretty quick. Nice to see your shop coming together.

I can't offer any assistance, since the electrical stuff is not my best area. I too rely on my electrician buddies to help me there, but just wanted to say things are looking good!
 
Core Knife Co. said:
Ron, would 220 change anything that you suggested above?
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the switch would be the same for your purpose
The plug would be a NEMA 6-15P
And you can use the same SO cable on a lower amperage.

Not much changes. You do know you could run a little bit longer of a service cord the 7 feet across your garage with the same set up before. just a different plug. It all depends on whether than will be a safe working condition for you.
 
Now I'm confused. The proper switch is what? Why would the plug change if the outlet were 7 feet closer to the service?
 
core, do you have pics of the wiring that motor comes with??

not every motor is the same nor is it a typical black and white issue, there should be around 8 wires in the housing.. it would help to see colors of the wires and would simplify getting you up and going without 220..

btw, if you change out your garage circuit breaker to 20amps, you've just hit a 220 homerun....... no need for 10gauge wire pull (disclaimer: of course that's the way it should be done)

awesome motor !!! I'm running 1 1/2hp and while its efficient I can bog it down hogging 1/4".. 2hp+:thumbup: is surely the way to go

keep us posted..
 
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alb1k said:
Now I'm confused. The proper switch is what? Why would the plug change if the outlet were 7 feet closer to the service?
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Because as he stated, seven feet away is a different voltage. Not the 115 volts closer to the motor.

EDIT: Core, your breakers are just 15 or 20. The other 5 and 6 noted like 5-15p, or 6-20p or 60-15p are NEMA designations for standardized electrical service connections. your Plugs or receptacles will have a NEMA designation for you to use to purchase compatible connections with the proper service.

It isn't so complicated, but it does take a little bit of reading and googling.
 
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I didn't assume anything. Core said he had 115v, he didn't think he had 220 service. So I detailed parts for that voltage.

He later said he would ask an associate about running the 220v from 7' away, and then specifically asked "ron, would that change anything?" So I answered the part it would change.

A single pole switch can turn on and off 220v (single phase) loads safely if it is connected to the power source with a plug, rather than hardwired.
 
Ron,

My short replies without better explanation on my part may have led you to believe that I am challenging your information. I am not. I would say that you know a great deal more than I do about electricity. I know more than Core. If everything wasn't clear to me, it's hard to believe it was clear to him.

When I say "assuming" I mean as in "the assumptions are." Not the ass-me-you thing. I didn't know he had a 115V outlet at the panel. Does he?

I don't doubt that a single pole switch can turn off 220V safely. I just asked which switch? I didn't see it identified anywhere.
 
alb1k said:
.... may have led you to believe that I am challenging your information.
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Actually I didn't. What you said was fine. I just wanted to be crystal clear, if you got it great, if you didn't than you could maybe find a question that would help zero in on any confusion.

alb1k said:
I didn't know he had a 115V outlet at the panel. Does he?
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He said so in his posts. Also depending on the panel he could have other options. Though with the feedback given I kept my response symmetrical to his information.


alb1k said:
I just asked which switch?
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I didn't want to give a part number. Plugs and receptacles have ratings but they are systematically identified for consumer and trade benefits. Switches are rated for the load amperage, and peak voltage. I didn't want to get into other options of two pole switches for lower amperage's and the higher 220v service. It seems to me with the limited feedback, he wanted it simple, so i kept it that way, and I considered his initial costs in the parts.
 
ron_m80 said:
Actually I didn't. What you said was fine. I just wanted to be crystal clear, if you got it great, if you didn't than you could maybe find a question that would help zero in on any confusion.
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Thanks, Ron. The confusion I have is how do you know he has 115V at the panel? He did not say that, please quote him for me if I am wrong. Maybe core can chime in and we will stop guessing. And, the switch here is a pretty big deal for motors. You said the switch would be the same but would not say which one. I would rather you direct Core to a qualified electrician than give him half of the picture.
 
The plug I was planning on using is about 15' from the panel and is on a 5/15 breaker. This plug I just mentioned is about 8' away from the grinder. I haven't figured out how to check to plug yet however I'll do that tomorrow depending on how expensive the 220 is to run. When I noticed it was 5/15 and not 5/20 I just went ahead and started calling in favors. Would the 220 be a better option than just adding another 5/20 115?

I have been in construction my entire life and have no problem working with me hands, but, like I mentioned, electricity really sucks the confidence right out of me. I just want to make sure I'm not going to overload something or put too much heat through a wire that wasn't meant to carry that load.
 
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