You know what's harder than chopping down a giant frozen birch tree with an NMFBM?

230grains

230grains

Joined
Jul 10, 2009
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Splitting it all up after. The wood is hard as a rock and frozen solid. My hand is still vibrating. After the chainsaw did it's job last night sectioning it, I could very well use a splitting maul, but nah...

I still have about half the tree to do, but my hand needed a break, I went through 14 batons.

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I shoulda used my camera, but I was lazy and already outside so my phone had to do.
 
Man that's alot of penned up frustration!!! Let it out and beat the HE!! out of that nasty old Birch Tree! :D
 
A deadblow mallet is awesome for batoning. If you're going to do a lot of it, it's well worth using one. Try it sometime....
 
Well, that's enough for today, it's taking over 100 hits with a baton to get through, and i'm splitting each one twice... This wood is made of iron.

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Atleast my pile is bigger, but i'm out of batons.
 
MustardMan said:
A deadblow mallet is awesome for batoning. If you're going to do a lot of it, it's well worth using one. Try it sometime....
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A dead blow hammer definitely works like a dream. :thumbup:

It's good to see sombody's getting their exercise in today! :D
 
Man 230 after that workout, I'm wore out!! :eek: Great job that's quite a pile of frozen wood.:thumbup: How'd your BWBM take it? Is she still rare'in to go.
 
AHHH, 230 it'll be alright Bro things are always darkest right before light. I'm sure it'll work out for you. Just hang in there.
 
d762nato said:
Man 230 after that workout, I'm wore out!! :eek: Great job that's quite a pile of frozen wood.:thumbup: How'd your BWBM take it? Is she still rare'in to go.
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No BWM, it's a nuclear meltdown fusion battle mistress. The NMFBM is about as thin as i'd want for a chopper.

The NMFBM is perfect. I convexed it since the stock edge chipped out pretty badly for some reason, now it's a chopping/batoning machine. The edge still shaves and push cuts paper, it wont push cut newspaper anymore or split hair.

I don't know what it is about the stock edges, this is the second factory busse edge i've chipped on hard wood, then I grind it and I have no other problems. They're indestructible.
 
230grains said:
. I convexed it since the stock edge chipped out pretty badly for some reason,

....

I don't know what it is about the stock edges, this is the second factory busse edge i've chipped on hard wood, then I grind it and I have no other problems. They're indestructible.
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I've seen the same thing. I've seen it theorized that it's an issue with decarb from the heat treat - the idea if they don't grind the edge back quite far enough after heat treating, you end up with some of that bad steel on the edge. Once you grind out the chips yourself, you're into the good steel again and all is well. I don't know how true this theory is, but it sounds plausible to me.


You're definitely not alone in noticing that, though. I chipped an edge on some really soft wood, even, but once it was sharpened out the blade was bulletproof.
 
I'm going to go with your theory, i'd love to see an MPI test on a busse right before shipping, decarb is brutal to steel. I'm a machinist in the aerospace field, and we recently got an entire lot of parts back from a major airline manufacturer, some moron caused some bad decarburization in the parts grinding, not even from HT, then when it went to get surface temper etched, because the entire part was burnt so bad STE didn't even pick it up as they didn't have a reference point. They must have neglected a 100% MPI check.

I literally took the knife, hit it into some wood and had 5 chips in it when I was done whacking the wood. No rocks, dirt, anything.
 
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MustardMan said:
I've seen the same thing. I've seen it theorized that it's an issue with decarb from the heat treat - the idea if they don't grind the edge back quite far enough after heat treating, you end up with some of that bad steel on the edge. Once you grind out the chips yourself, you're into the good steel again and all is well. I don't know how true this theory is, but it sounds plausible to me.


You're definitely not alone in noticing that, though. I chipped an edge on some really soft wood, even, but once it was sharpened out the blade was bulletproof.
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Many people on BF have noted this, with a variety of steels. Your theory is the commonly accepted one.
 
I guess you need the NMFBM as much chopping and splitting wood as you do. You definatley put your Busse's to the test. :thumbup:
 
Like I said, I gotta get my moneys worth!

BTW, this sage coating is tough. I've used this knife for probably a combined total of 8 hours of non stop splitting/chopping so far and all I have is smoothing and a little bald spot on the spine from whacking it with a baton. I wanna beat it off it before I strip it.
 
You sure that sage is going to come off. It must be into the pores of the metal. This could take awhile maybe by spring! :)
 
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