Your comments please!

[Galloglas]

Hey, I just finished this sword...it's a tactical style katana we called "Yacho" and features a super tough 5160 blade and a one-off mount of pinned steel fittings, paracord, heat shrink and copper.

I'd like your comments good or bad as I'm trying to zero in on what the public wants.

Quite a bit of R&D and time went into the development and design/creation of this sword and I'd love to hear what you guys think about the final product if you'd care to comment and help me out a bit.

Thanks in advance for looking and for any constructive critique you can offer!

Brian

 

[Triton]

It's an interesting piece, somewhat traditional look, but performance oriented. I think sales will really depend on your price point. Do you have an estimate yet?

Price it to high and people will go buy something more traditional, if it's low you are directly competing with all the flood of chitanas. A fine line to walk!

 

[Galloglas]

This one is on the site for $2K and with all the work/hours put in on this one the price pretty much represents what I have invested in the sword. No profit on this one... No profit? Very ugly...

If I ever am reduced to competing price wise with the Chinese katanas I'll quit making swords and git another real job frying burgers. I suppose if some person decides they absolutely must have a katana and only has a couple hundred bucks to spend then the production kats are the only answer. I can't compete with that as a person making real, one-off swords in North America. I need more than $25 a week to buy food.

I consider it more as "tactical art" than anything else...something cool and original that could actually be taken out and cut targets with as well as looking cool on the bookshelf of coffee table.

Truly, I doubt I'll ever make one again with this exact configuration. I do love the heat treat which was cutting edge "Staged Phase" where we get a 50/50 mix of Bainite and tempered Martensite in the microstructure. Originally Randal Graham (who did the heat treat) and I felt that this structure had most of the toughness of Bainite and most of the hardness of Martensite but some judicious testing and comparison shows that this structure may actually exceed/transcend this. Apparently some very knowlegeable folks (metallurgically speaking...) seem to feel that there is some evidence that this mixed microstructure may actually be better than the best of both worlds.

I do know it is uncanny in its ability to be flexed and yet return as well as skate a file. Very hard and very tough.

There will likely be more blades in this heat treat scenareo if we can solve some of the issues. But I would simplify the mounting to some of my pseudo traditional mounts or a much simpler system consisting of cord wrapped tangs instead of the built up handle with irradiated polyolefin, nylon cord and paracord with articulating fittings and integral habaki done on Yacho.

I appreciate your comments!

Brian

 

[OldPhysics]

An attractive design with clean lines.

Any chance you could post pics or vids with some cutting involved? Tameshigiri...

I would think devotees of the sword would be very interested in a tough but hard blade -- once they saw it perform. After all, that's what made Omimi famous! (Now he has no time for commissions...:grumpy: )

If that community is a target for you, you might consider approaching one of the master cutters. Anything used by a master in competition gets real attention. Might want to widen the end of the grip a bit, though.

Just suggestions. From what I can see in your pictures, the sword is extremely well made, and well worth $2K. The unique heat treatment makes it even more interesting.

 

[Galloglas]

Hey speaking of Howard I was over to his place a few weeks ago for his open house. We had a bunch of fun hob knobbing with friends and such and I got to meet Tony Alvarez and Robin Ramirez. We cut a bunch of stuff up and had a general heck of a time.

Now see...ya got me droppin' names. My bad. :foot:

Anyway, I shot some clips of Howard making katana sunobe out of 1086 round stock and stiched 'em all together like a mini demo. I tried to get a whole series to show the whole deal from round bar to forging all the bevel and such but there were too many guests in the way. Take a look if yer a mind to: http://home.mchsi.com/~samonji/HowardsForgingDemo.wmv

I have had the desire to make some cutting videos with my swords as well as some of the various blades that have passed thru my hands over the years but I have never had the time. I'm kinda between jobs right now and doing the cutlery thing full time so I guess I'd better get to it. I train with an L6 and it's been thru nearly 200,000 cuts and swings and draws and sheaths at this point as I train with it 3 times a week.

I probably won't get to having a big name cut with my swords but I'll probably do it myself. I'm not as good as Big Tony but folks will get the point if they are interested. One more of my L6 used hard far a few years before I go..

I appreciate your comments. And I thank you.

Brian

 

[the possum]

Very cool piece, Brian.

I consider it more as "tactical art" than anything else...something cool and original that could actually be taken out and cut targets with as well as looking cool on the bookshelf of coffee table.

From this standpoint, I think the squared off tsuba really works, since it allows the sword to sit up without need for any stand.

I do love the heat treat which was cutting edge "Staged Phase" where we get a 50/50 mix of Bainite and tempered Martensite in the microstructure. Originally Randal Graham (who did the heat treat) and I felt that this structure had most of the toughness of Bainite and most of the hardness of Martensite but some judicious testing and comparison shows that this structure may actually exceed/transcend this. Apparently some very knowlegeable folks (metallurgically speaking...) seem to feel that there is some evidence that this mixed microstructure may actually be better than the best of both worlds.

I do know it is uncanny in its ability to be flexed and yet return as well as skate a file. Very hard and very tough.

I would love to hear more about this if you have the time. Details as to what materials were tested against, and how normally heat treated pieces compared. Also what heat treating "issues" have you encountered?

...I would simplify the mounting to some of my pseudo traditional mounts or a much simpler system consisting of cord wrapped tangs instead of the built up handle with irradiated polyolefin, nylon cord and paracord with articulating fittings and integral habaki done on Yacho.

So, does this piece have a wooden tsuka core, or is it totally built up with the cord and heat shrink?
I have always been fond of the traditional three string wrap. (forget the proper term) This might be something you could do with the cord you have, and it would lend a traditional look while still being perhaps easier (??) to do than with flat ito. Just a thought.

Also, would you consider some sort of reinforcing metal band around the mouth of the scabbard? Especially if you're gonna market this to the "tactical" crowd, you may be dealing with people who haven't perfected their technique over thousands of draws. I'd be concerned about splitting the scabbard during quick draws.

 

[Galloglas]

Very cool piece, Brian.



From this standpoint, I think the squared off tsuba really works, since it allows the sword to sit up without need for any stand.




I would love to hear more about this if you have the time. Details as to what materials were tested against, and how normally heat treated pieces compared. Also what heat treating "issues" have you encountered?



So, does this piece have a wooden tsuka core, or is it totally built up with the cord and heat shrink?
I have always been fond of the traditional three string wrap. (forget the proper term) This might be something you could do with the cord you have, and it would lend a traditional look while still being perhaps easier (??) to do than with flat ito. Just a thought.

Also, would you consider some sort of reinforcing metal band around the mouth of the scabbard? Especially if you're gonna market this to the "tactical" crowd, you may be dealing with people who haven't perfected their technique over thousands of draws. I'd be concerned about splitting the scabbard during quick draws.

See? He gets it....the whole reason for the rectangular tsuba is so the sword can be displayed without a stand and it will not roll away or fall over.

As far as eleborating on the heat treat, it has been compared to just about everything else there is by the guy who did the heat treat. Randal Graham. I think he was a bit skeptical about what we were doing but he was just silly about how much crap this blade can take and still come straight. I'll stop short of hyping it. But it is every bit as viable as traditional tempered Martensite when compared by a guy who makes swords of tempered Martensite and in our opinion and experience it simply rocks in this configuration.

The issues? Dealing with even small warps. Long blades frequently warp a bit but they can be hammered or straightened using a variety of methods. Randal about wore himself out getting this one straight. It doesn't take a set easily so getting it straightened is very challenging. In short, the losses in making a lot of these blades will be high because some of them will simply be impossible to get straight after heat treat and will have to be scrapped.

There is no wood in the handle. It is built up on the actual tang of the sword using layers of heat shrink and nylon cord. I have done handles like this and potted the wrap with epoxy or CA and they end up impervious to just about anything a guy can dish up.

I won't put reinforcing bands on a saya. These don't need it as the blade does not ride in a seam....the saya are made of 3 seperate pieces of wood. A central board is cut to accept the profile of the blade and then two boards are glued to the central board and shaped. The mouth is cross grained board (the newest are all walnut) and a cord tying knob is glued on. There is no seam to split that can allow the blade to contact the swordsman. The wood glue and epoxy coat would have to literally fall apart to expose the hand to the edge.

A person with bad enough technique could possibly cut thru the saya but it would take many draws to do it. And there would be a lot of warning before the wood was all cut away and exposed the sword.

Brian

 

[JParanee]

very nice. I prefer a longer handle but that is just me. Looks like very nice workmanship and a real deal for the price you quoted.



joe

 

[Galloglas]

Yeah, in retrospect (and on future similar swords..) there would definately be a longer handle. And slightly less meat, a deeper curve, a higher peaked spine, a smaller/thinner lighter tsuba and a different design for the riccasso/habaki area.

The entire sword is brutal and vicious. It's heavy but it was not really designed or tested as a daily trainer or a dojo rats delight.

I do think a longer handle would have been very appropriate with some additional modifications to make it balance and handle properly with that configuration. And I appreciate your comments!

Brian

 

[the possum]

In short, the losses in making a lot of these blades will be high because some of them will simply be impossible to get straight after heat treat and will have to be scrapped.

Oooo. Don't be surprised if you see a possum in the dumpster behind Randall's shop. Really, I wouldn't mind getting my hands on a "scrap" blade just to see how much abuse they can handle myself.

I won't put reinforcing bands on a saya. These don't need it as the blade does not ride in a seam....the saya are made of 3 seperate pieces of wood. A central board is cut to accept the profile of the blade and then two boards are glued to the central board and shaped. The mouth is cross grained board (the newest are all walnut)...

Yeah, cross grained walnut sounds good. Didn't know you were making the scabbards that way. However, considering the whole idea of "overkill" with the blade and hilt components' durability, I'm surprised you have chosen to stand firm on this minor issue.
The walnut scabbard on my bowie knife is getting rather worn at the mouth from lots of draws. I'm thinking about adding a small piece of bone or plastic or something to prevent the edge from cutting into the wood so easily, in addition to a metal throat to prevent splitting. (I have to repair a split mouth about every month, it seems.)

 

[Galloglas]

Yeah, cross grained walnut sounds good. Didn't know you were making the scabbards that way. However, considering the whole idea of "overkill" with the blade and hilt components' durability, I'm surprised you have chosen to stand firm on this minor issue.

I guess my opinion in this matter stems from hundreds of thousands of draws and sheaths out of the saya I use in the dojo that was constructed in this manner. The mouth is not chipped or loose and will still hold the sword in the scabbard when traditional scabbards have long since gone "loosy goosy". Then again, I have some level of technique and a sword should never be sheathed quickly or in a half hazard manner. Knifes (especially sheath knives) have a much different function in that they are work tools and they come in and out of the sheath quickly and artlessly.

My intention is more to mimic the Japanese style with a twist and some modern adaptation of materials and techniques. I think a metal mouth or some kind of plastic reinforcement might make the saya virtually indestructible like the blade but at a cost of aesthetics that I'm not willing to impart.

If this trend of making fullblown swords in a "camp sword" style takes hold with me I'll put them in Kydex and nylon or some other indestructible material.

It's a good idea for swords in general (some sort of metal mouth reinforcement...) I just don't see myself ever doing. I do appreciate the suggestion, however, and your participation in the thread.

Brian

 

[neil g]

Nothing bad to say here brian it is a very beautiful sword, and i think it falls into the tactical line very nicely. I especially like the whole tactical black theme. There is nothing to fancy and that's what puts it all together. again nice work.

 

[Galloglas]

Nothing bad to say here brian it is a very beautiful sword, and i think it falls into the tactical line very nicely. I especially like the whole tactical black theme. There is nothing to fancy and that's what puts it all together. again nice work.

Basic black, simple and robust. See, he gets it too....

I guess there are some folks who like plain vanilla still. Thanks to all for the comments it helps. It really does...

Brian

 

[hank_rearden]

a katana, to be useful in the 21th century, should be as light and slim as technology will allow. that's my opinion.

 

[Galloglas]

Cool, Hank. So, your opinion is that this pieces size and weight preclude it from being something modern buyers would appreciate? I mean, I like light and fast swords as well but meat and substance actually tracks better in the cut and is more functional in the hands of novices..at least that was my experience in teaching swordsmanship for 15 years.

Novice/inexperienced users tend to "overdrive" and "oversteer" lighter, slimmer, faster profiles. Folks tend to try muscle and speed in a cut if the sword is light and slim enough to be manhandled.

But this sword is an extreme example and not for general audiences, I admit that. Future generations will be more elegant and distinctly different form this one in many ways. Most notably they will be lighter and a bit slimmer.

So, I guess in the end we mostly agree.

Brian

 

[SIRGALANT]

nice sword mate , is that a 92FS in the pics?

 

[the possum]

I won't put reinforcing bands on a saya. These don't need it as the blade does not ride in a seam.... A person with bad enough technique could possibly cut thru the saya but it would take many draws to do it. And there would be a lot of warning before the wood was all cut away and exposed the sword.

I think a metal mouth or some kind of plastic reinforcement might make the saya virtually indestructible like the blade but at a cost of aesthetics that I'm not willing to impart.

Ya know, there was still something bugging me about the saya issue, and it just occurred to me. Even if it lasts a long time for drawing, have you considered what would happen if the wearer fell on it? At least with the way I carry my short sword/bowie (tucked through the belt crossdraw), when that handle hits the ground it really gets torqued upwards. (I also found out a crossguard can give you a nice bruise in the gut this way. ) If I were carrying it edge up in the Japanese fashion, I would be more concerned about it getting through the wood. Not necessarily popping a seam apart, but simply a very sharp blade being levered with great force through a relatively thin piece of wood. (I do think the cross grain will still help greatly.)

I think you could easily pull off something like this without affecting the aesthetics, if you wanted to. Just carve the scabbard a little so the ferrule fits perfectly flush with the wood, and then laquer/epoxy coat the whole thing to hide it.

Again, this is probably a lesser issue compared to other things, but just thought I'd mention it. It's still a cool piece. :thumbup:

 

[the possum]

a katana, to be useful in the 21th century, should be as light and slim as technology will allow. that's my opinion.

I disagree, in a general sense. The people who actually used swords hundreds of years ago, and not just in Japan, were certainly capable of making their swords lighter if they wanted to. But they didn't. Even the smallsword is a couple hundred years old, and they often weighed considerably less than a pound.

If we ground a single edge and Japanese style point onto a fencing foil... Well, modern technology would allow us to do so if we desired. But can you really still call it a "katana"? How much cutting power would a 7 ounce sword have?

 

[Galloglas]

nice sword mate , is that a 92FS in the pics?

It's an ancient 92S. Still has the mag release at the bottom/center of the handle. This one was purchased before it was adopted as a US military sidearm.

Brian

 

[saint o'killers]

i like it! i really like the "traditional" characteristics of it...compared to other "tactical" versions out there this one leans toward the "traditional" feel. does that make sense?

but for something that weighs over 3 lbs i think i would prefer a longer tsuka. that just my preference. and i really like the rectangular tsuba for it's displaying purpose.

i would prefer a lighter version as well...with this weight, your cut(s) will definitely fall into the "one cut, one kill" techniques, which is probably not a bad idea if you were to use it in a real "tactical" scenerio.

i see you love in ILL...how far are you from Chicago? i'd love to see this bad boy in person.