Your criteria and priorities when buying or purposing a knife?

Joined
Jul 27, 2023
Messages
77
Do you have any basic or fundamental criteria that a knife must meet in order for you to consider it for purchase? Or are you a purpose based buyer, only buying what could fill a specific purpose in your life?

For example I have 2 main criteria for me to even consider a knife...

1. I'm a folder guy, don't care at all for or about fixed. So my main priority is singlehanded operation. I'd say most pocket knives fit into this, but not all. And I prefer to have one that fits this criteria from the factory, rather than adding on any aftermarket studs or the like.

2. I only do pocket knives, and deep carry is of utmost importance as I'm in an office environment most my days. This makes it equal to the ability to handle it with one hand, thus size is important. I've come to find that about a 3" blade (give or take a quarter inch) fits my hand perfectly and suits any and all tasks I would need of a knife.

There are of course other determining factors as to whether or not I buy, but those are what I look for before I even consider looking further.
 
It just depends what kind of knife we're talking. I'm pretty set with what I have in my smaller number of fixed blades. However throughout years I found that my perfect blade length was 3.3" and stuck to that for about a decade. I was working with the public back then and anything over that and I felt awkward pulling it out. Now days I drive for a living and feel fine carrying any folder I want, and I'm on a little bit bigger knife kick so I like from 3.3" to about 3.6". I have a specific handle design that I like the best too which is something like the handle design of the Bugout, the Al Mar SERE 2000, the WE Espirit, and the Kershaw Avalanche. That's my style for a "perfect knife". And honestly, if it fits that description and is of good quality, any of them would work as really the only single folder I'd ever need.
 
Just my personal preferences in the last year: Slipjoint. Good fit & finish. Made in America or Italy. No pocket clip. Under $200. Narrows it down enough for me so I’m not constantly buying, and ensures that I’ll carry what I buy.
 
I like unique steels in folders, just picked up a user mini K2 in D3, this thing is a beast! Beyond that, I've been getting into more titanium handles knives, just picked up a ZT0055 for a great price, I'm looking forward to getting that in hand! Oh, and no china knives, Taiwan is GTG!
 
Micarta slabs. No linerlocks or framelocks, no jimping, spear point or some kind of sheepsfoot/modified wharncliffe blade. No full-flat grinds. I have some specific ideas of what the handle shape should look like, and no way to explain them.

Of course, all this can be thrown out the window for good enough reasons.
 
American made.

It has to take me back to when I was 10 years old. That confidence that I could carry and use it correctly or wisely. And Mom and Dad approve. Mostly Mom.

(Don't call me a Momma's boy! Haha)

Price doesn't matter as the knife in hand can keep me fed, safe and warm without doubt, fear or question.

Finally, I could lend it someone and they would get the same results.

My 'science' isn't like Larrin's. Maybe the Doctor would approve. Maybe 4 out 5 Doctors would approve.

Apples and Oranges: Apples
 
I like convex grinds and burl scales for my fixed blade outdoors knives, and hollow grind and titanium framelocks as my EDC folders. I also like CF, liner locks and back locks. For garden/yard work I MUST have spyderedged salts and i only like Victorinox SAKs / multitools.
I avoid :
- omega springs,
- ball bearings (prefer PB washers),
- blades thicker than 3mm (there are exceptions based on blade geometry, grind, size and use),
- knives with "show faces"
- compression locks
- riveted scales unless its a traditional piece
- black tactical knives (just not my style)
- tanto blades (possible exception: CRK Inkosi)..

+ Stopped buying chinese stuff years ago.
 
Last edited:
The only rule I have is that I don’t buy anything from china.

I’ve found that I don’t like automatics or spring assisted. I prefer to be able to use with only one hand so I also don’t llike back locks and slip joints either.

I also look for folding knives I can carry comfortably. I’ve found anything a 1/2” in thickness is ok, anything thicker is a little to much in the pocket. I also consider width but have found that it’s not quite as important as thickness except in jeans. I do consider weight but it’s not something that will prevent me from buying something I really like.

What usually appeals to me first and foremost is blade shapes then ergonomics of the handle. I really appreciate something that feels great in the hand.

Collection wise, I find myself falling in love with certain makers. For example, Emerson probably has my favorite blade shapes across the board so I bought all of my favorite models of his. Les George has my favorite action and great quality so I bought every variation of his models I could find. Hinderers are next on my list because of quality of build, robustness, and ergonomics so I intend on getting a few different models and blade shapes of his. Same with Chris Reeves as well. I plan on eventually trying a strider but at the moment I don’t own any yet. When collecting a certain maker I do try to have variation in all the models and no duplicates.

Other than that, I’ll occasionally buy from larger production companies like spyderco and benchmade when something appeals to me but I don’t consider myself a collector of those brands.

And I guess I do have one more rule, I wont keep anything I feel like I can’t carry or use.
 
I have more knives than I need. I will buy a knife that looks interesting, is not something I already have, is not a liner lock or frame lock, does not have D2 or 154CM steel, and has a handle that is not likely to slip out of my sweaty hand when the heat index is 123F like it was today. Bonus points for Magnacut.
 
For folders...
1. not made in china
2. high quality materials and f&f
3. easy one hand operation with either left or right Hand (dual thumbstuds or spydiehole, ambidextrous lock)
4. no ball bearings
5. deep carry clip
6. 3-4 inch clip- or droppoint blade
7. grippy handle
8. 400$ max
 
Back
Top