Your Picture Mr. Crawford

[itrade]

OK He asked! My original was OK, but here's a new improved model that really works swell.

Here's the basic parts:

4 2" brass pins (welding rod)
2 2" bolts and nuts (wing nuts would be better!)
1 1/2" x 3/4" x 13" pine
1" x 10" glass

To make the pin holes I drilled the board first, then cut the ends off. Besure to make the holes as close to the bottom edge of the board as you can. A tight fit for the brass and a loose one for the bolts.

Then cut the ends off the boards. 10 1/2"ish for the center section worked just fine. When using 11" paper there was enough paper to sqeeze in the ends and not run into the pins. You'll see it in a sec.

I epoxied the bolts in the holes in the center, but not on the end pieces. The brass pins can slide around. Also epoxied the glass to the board.

Here's a closer view:

Finished product:

In this version there are no clips to get in the way - makes working easier. These end clamps hold better too. I also changed to 1" wide glass. You can really apply the pressure with that narrow of a surface. I'll tell you what. I placed a piece of 120 belt on there and you can remove grind lines and gouges right now. The blade becomes as flat as glass.

This version is cheaper than the last one. Cost me no more than $2.

Hope this helps Chris,

Steve

PS I'm thinking a longer bolt and a heavy spring on the end would improve it even more. Then you won't have to loosen a nut to change paper. Just pull back.

 

[ddavelarsen]

Steve, thanks for the pics, they're worth a lot of words. Looks like something I'm gonna have to try too.

Dave

 

[pso]

Hello Chris

Does this device really need the wood blocks on the end?

It would likely be much easier to make if the main wood block were wider than the piece of glass and the clamping blocks were on the bottom. Only two bolts would be needed to clamp the main block to each of the clamping blocks. The bolts would be located either side of the glass plate. Using carriage bolts would ensure that the bolt heads did not protrude above the glass. Wingnuts on the bottom side would eliminate the need for tools. It would mean that a bit more of sandpaper that is "wasted" but this could be minimized by using a relatively thin (say 1/4 inch) plywood for top surface of the main block.

Just some ideas. It's hard to turn off the engineer mindset, especially if I am reading this at work.

Phil

 

[Wapiti]

I built a device very similar to this a few years ago, a sanding plane, but out of 1/2" thick mild steel. It had the clamps on the bottom, which were bolted to the underside of the plate with hex head cap screws. It also had beveled edges for the plunge area, and was made to hold used sanding belts (so it was 2" wide). I will have to add the glass to it, though. That would make it a lot truer. I have designed a tightener for one end, but never finished it. One clamp on the underside floated freely but had a bolt that went through it to another block bolted to the underside. By tightening a nut, the floating clamp would tighten up the belt.
Great ideas!
Brome

 

[itrade]

Cool ideas, guys. Clamp on the bottom. Plus the floating clamp that tightens. Just can't picture quite how to make it, but the idea is great.

The plunge cut cleaner is also great idea!! I'm gonna have to make another one with rounded steel or pin material or something.

I found the end clamps hold pretty well. I lay the paper on straight and anchor at one end. Then make a high-pressure pass to the other end before clamping that end. Not too much trouble.

Steve