Your thoughts on sharp tang corners

SonnyJim

SonnyJim

Joined
Mar 6, 2012
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THis may have come up before, but my search couldn't find it. I just received an absolute gem of a knife (a gorgeous Ken Coats Trapper!) pics to follow, don't want to derail the thread (just yet : ). It's been a nice little tradition, that when I get a new knife (mostly GEC's), I have a little sit down session with a jewelers file and take down the sharp corners of the tang to make it more pocket (and finger) friendly. This new Coats of mine, and maybe 2-3 other fine knives I've had, have me hesitant though. It's such a gorgeous piece, and when opened, looks like a fixed blade the seam is so perfect. In the end though, it's got to be pocket friendly or it's a drawer queen (I don't own a safe). Do you file 'em down? or do you live with frayed pockets and scarred digits?

~Jim
 
All of my GECs could stand to have that edge broken a bit, but I just can't bring myself to do it for some reason.
 
Sometimes the difference between 'frayed pockets and scarred digits', and not, can come down to some extremely minor burnishing or high-grit sanding of the corners and edges of the tang. Might not even need a file to do it, as that may remove more material than is necessary. Similar to the difference between a sharpened edge that shaves, and a very slightly rounded or over-polished one that skates over whatever you're trying to cut. The amount of material removed, to make the difference, can be that small.

If doing anything at all to fix it, I'd start with something like 1000-2000 grit sandpaper, and make some very light fingertip passes over the edges/corners, and re-check periodically to see if the 'bite' has come out of it, just enough to prevent it from catching and abrading fabric, or digging into your fingers. The goal is just basically to duplicate the slight smoothing and polishing that would otherwise come over an extended period of time with handling & pocket wear.


David
 
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I've used a rod from my Spyderco sharpmaker on every GEC I own except for my #15. I call the #15 my bizarro GEC, since the blades were sharp and the tangs were dull.
 
I can't understand for the life of me why in the world they are left sharp! I Hate them, and one of the first things I do with a new knife is to fire up my buffer and break that edge. It only takes about 20 seconds.
 
SubSpace said:
I've used a rod from my Spyderco sharpmaker on every GEC I own except for my #15. I call the #15 my bizarro GEC, since the blades were sharp and the tangs were dull.
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Lol, I like that - bizarro GEC!
Medium rod used? Or diamond?
 
Sharp tang corners are bad!
My new Pemberton came nice and sharp, slices through paper easily. But that tang is only good for cutting things I dont want cut, so the first thing I did was try to strop it down.. it was cutting the leather, so I went to the 1000 grit water stone.. a bit hard to get a change, so I went to the dremmel.. a bit coarse.. still needs a bunch of stropping.

Really like the blade shape, the solid snap, and its my first ebony.. all great fun.

Inspired by sitflyers awesome spearpoint barlow blade blackening, I used hot vinegar to blacken the Pemberton
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jwren said:
Lol, I like that - bizarro GEC!
Medium rod used? Or diamond?
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Medium rods. Doesn't take much at all. I put scotch tape on the bolsters, and so far I have left no tell tale marks on the blades as I would with a file.
 
That's why they make pocket pouches. I'd never work the edges of a custom. I might work the edges some on a production EDC. I haven't had to do that yet though. I have three pocket knives here handy and the GEC Tidioute EJ has pretty high tangs when closed and the other two (K R Johnson jack and Case Texas jack) are thus more pocket friendly than the EJ. Unfortunately, at this writing, I don't have a photo to show the differences. I am not going to modify the tangs on the EJ.

Ed J
 
Well I've been pocketing it all day, and it's just too annoying. Apologies to Ken Coats, but I had to (very slightly) break the tip of those shoulders. It was like the tip of a needle I tell ya. I took your advice Subspace, and used the rod from my Sharpmaker, smart! I didn't even bother with my usual blue painter's tape to cover the bolsters, it was so much easier to use than my little jeweler's files. It's still a nice clean joint in my opinion, but I don't get bit. Funny, but with the exception of a Case/ Bose Tribal spear, all my Case knives have extremely rounded tangs. Waaay more than I would ever take off, but I can't deny that it makes them a more friendly worry stone.

~Jim
 
All my GECs get stoned, I really dislike sharp tangs in the pocket and I don't generally opt for pouches & back pocket carry is awkward.

This is one reason why really good manufacturers/makers used sunken or semi-sunk joints...real class, and check out some oldies for verification.

The reason CASE joints are more mellow is that they tumble them, rounding them off but there will not be a crisp match up. The CASE/TB Norfolk I have sports the sought after sunk-joints.

Thanks, Will
 
Hi,

If it's going to be carried, I wouldn't hesitate to break any sharp corners. I only have 2 GECs, but both got some judicious stoning. The spines of both blades on my Boy's knife also needed some attention. So much more pocket friendly now.

I have thought of getting a pocket pouch. But I just can't seem to pull the trigger on one.

Dale
 
I hate sharp tangs. I don't want anything making holes in my pockets. I'll usually touch then up lightly enough so that the tang corners feel rounder and more snag less without altering the appearance.
 
When the corners are left sharp, you can have a seamless transition from the spring to the blade on knives where the spring and blade are exactly flat. That's important to some folks.

When the corners are rounded, you don't have that seamless transition, but the knife is more comfortable to use. Doesn't take much to round the corners and I do that to mine. I don't mind the minor difference in appearance.

The third alternative is for the spring not to meet the knife at the bottom of the spring. You can set offset where they meet, and if you are clever, you can polish the offset on the spring. I have a Boker where this was done so effectively that you don't notice that the corners are rounded.
 
knarfeng said:
When the corners are left sharp, you can have a seamless transition from the spring to the blade on knives where the spring and blade are exactly flat. That's important to some folks.
Click to expand...

Yep. I don't mind a crisp tang for this reason. Then again, I use a slip sheath to carry most of my traditionals... I also like how it keeps the knife upright in the pocket and has the same carry feel no matter what knife I have for the day. :)

-Brett
 
> I use a slip sheath to carry most of my traditionals... I also like how it keeps the knife upright in the pocket and has the same carry feel no matter what knife I have for the day.

It would be interesting to see people's sheaths. Yours serves the role of a belt sheath, consistent positioning. I'm guessing what some people might call sheath traditionals, are multi Benjamin customs. More pics please :-)

Cocoons
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And butterflies
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