Yup. It's a wicked edge alright.

M

Megawatt308

Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
300
I had a sharpmaker for about 6 years (actually still have it). Love the low cost, portability and ability to sharpen just about everything. Easy enough to take camping for touch up work so it's did me fine. Now I stepped up to the wicked edge system. For me it's was all about the repetitive angle that I never really mastered the way many of you no doubt can using the sharpmaker. The wicked edge system is making up for my poor techniques. Now I'm making our knifes scary sharp, so much that my wife even cut her hand and didn't even know it cause the chef knives havent been this sharp in a very long time.

You guys are a wealth of info, that's good news for me and my knives not so good for the wallet. I got the basic system with 100, 200, 400, 600 stones. Is everyone gonna tell me to go ahead and get the other finer stones too? Like the 800/1000 or the 1200/1600? Is one of these a must have in your opinions?
 
I actually eschewed the WE system after using it for a couple years and replaced it with a Work Sharp with a grinder attachment. Best sharpening decision I ever made.

The WE isn't complete without the 1000+ grit diamond stones IMHO. I could never get the strop blocks to work to any better effect than the high-grit diamond, though.
 
Get the finer stones, you wont be able to sleep knowing that you did not get that mirror edge on your knife
 
onojoe said:
Get the finer stones, you wont be able to sleep knowing that you did not get that mirror edge on your knife
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I have seen some of the forums amazing pictures you guys have put up, I know what your saying. So let me guess. The 1200/1600 stones will do the mirror edge but I will also need the 800/1000 to be able to get there?
 
Just go ahead and suck it up and get the rest of them.

I actually use the higher grit ones way more often than the lower. The 100/200 are only used to grind the knife it's first time to the new edge. I mark all the settings into the included book and then there is no guesswork for touchups and you probably won't even need below the 600 unless you really damage the knife, or want to take it to a different angle. For touchups I usually start at 600 or 800 and go through the 1k/1200. Oh, and there are leather ones too. You could probably do with out those, up to the ceramic is great though.
 
Thx lefty, that is exactly what I noticed about the 100/200. Seemed like starting way over when it wasn't needed unless I was going for a new angle or reprofile. The 600 still "looked" just a bit rough but definitely sharpened.
 
I can't help with your question because I'm just now considering the Wicked Edge. Did you find a vendor that was really good to work with?
 
Comeuppance said:
I actually eschewed the WE system after using it for a couple years and replaced it with a Work Sharp with a grinder attachment. Best sharpening decision I ever made.
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I have to agree with you, although I had been using the Edge Pro instead of the Wicked Edge. Wish I would have bought the Work Sharp with the blade grinding attachment sooner. Just as good results as I got with my Edge Pro, but in literally a quarter of the time. Sharpening friends and families kitchen knife sets is no longer an all day affair.

This post is not meant to take anything away from the WE or EP, they are both GREAT systems that produce killer results. I've now just fell in love with the speed from the powered system. FWIW I still have my EP and don't plan on selling it.
 
How much more mateterial does the work sharp remove? That it's that much faster makes me fear (probably wrongly) that it will decrease the width of the blade to much, too fast.
Either way I can imagine it being great for reprofiling for example.
 
Jens Schuetz said:
How much more mateterial does the work sharp remove? That it's that much faster makes me fear (probably wrongly) that it will decrease the width of the blade to much, too fast.
Either way I can imagine it being great for reprofiling for example.
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The KO-WorkSharp is variable speed, so it will remove material as fast or as slow as you want it to. Speed up to reprofile, slow down to sharpen. :thumbup:
 
Jens Schuetz said:
How much more mateterial does the work sharp remove? That it's that much faster makes me fear (probably wrongly) that it will decrease the width of the blade to much, too fast.
Either way I can imagine it being great for reprofiling for example.
Click to expand...

As already mentioned, with a combination of low speed and light pressure, you can be very gentle on material removal. On the other end of the spectrum, high speed and more pressure can remove material really fast.
 
Comeuppance said:
I actually eschewed the WE system after using it for a couple years and replaced it with a Work Sharp with a grinder attachment. Best sharpening decision I ever made.

The WE isn't complete without the 1000+ grit diamond stones IMHO. I could never get the strop blocks to work to any better effect than the high-grit diamond, though.
Click to expand...

+1 . Tried the edge pro and I'm pretty good at free handing but the blade grinding attachment is best ive ever used . Nothing like having a butter knife to a straight razor in 2 minutes.
 
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