I am in the process of getting a spyderco stretch with zdp 189 blade, and from what I've Been reading it can be very difficult to sharpen your first few times. I am decent at sharpening not amazing but I get the job done, so my question is what type of sharpener is best for this type of steel, and are there any special tricks to sharpening it?
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Zdp-189n how to sharpen
- Thread starter noahtom
- Start date
I have 2 Spydie's with ZDP, Caly 3.5 and a Dragonfly. Both came stupid sharp, (DF came so sharp hairs just fell off my arm out of fear!) and have been super easy to maintain on nothing more than a Spyderco Double Stuff! The Caly has seen mostly light use but the DF has been put through the paces and is no worse for the wear. Even after using it for scraping silicone off of grout and shower tiles till the edge was noticeably dull, nothing more than about 5 passes on a lanky fine stone then a couple min on the Double stuff and she's shaving hair again. For me, ZDP189 and Cruwear have been super easy to sharpen followed closely by D2. For some reason 1095 proved quite challenging at first yet is supposed to be one of the easiest from what I've read. I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in soon with some more info for you.
I've found ZDP-189 to be not too bad to sharpen. It seems to take a little longer than other more simple steels, but the difference isn't huge as long as you are using AN EFFECTIVE ABRASIVE for this steel. I've personally had great luck with the Spyderco Sharpmaker rods, which are the same material as the doublestuff mentioned above.
My DMT diasharp plates seem to eat ZDP right up with no issues. Again, a little slower than a more simple steel, but they get the job done. I *have* noticed that deburring takes more strokes, or more pressure, or more time on this steel. A lot of the very, very light pressure that I've used on other steels just doesn't even touch the burr on ZDP. I've found that I need to do some combination of parallel strokes, or edge leading to get rid of the burr. My new favorite technique of raising up the angle by 5 to 10 degrees for *1* or 2 strokes per side also seems very effective on ZDP.
I'm slowly thinning my blade out. I'm trying to find the failure point, or get down to single digits per side. Which ever comes first.
Brian.
My DMT diasharp plates seem to eat ZDP right up with no issues. Again, a little slower than a more simple steel, but they get the job done. I *have* noticed that deburring takes more strokes, or more pressure, or more time on this steel. A lot of the very, very light pressure that I've used on other steels just doesn't even touch the burr on ZDP. I've found that I need to do some combination of parallel strokes, or edge leading to get rid of the burr. My new favorite technique of raising up the angle by 5 to 10 degrees for *1* or 2 strokes per side also seems very effective on ZDP.
I'm slowly thinning my blade out. I'm trying to find the failure point, or get down to single digits per side. Which ever comes first.
Brian.
- Joined
- May 20, 2007
- Messages
- 3,368
I have good luck with my shapton glass progression. I don't think the chromium carbides are that difficult compared to some of the harder carbide producers. Although zdp 189 I'd considered "old hat" by some, it seems to work great for my edc needs. I messed with some really acute angles but now try to maintain 13-15 degrees per...
I hope you enjoy your stretch.
Russ
I hope you enjoy your stretch.
Russ
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2002
- Messages
- 3,409
you can quickly re-profile zdp on a carborundum stone, before shifting to a finer water stone. just a warning: don't apply too much pressure. coarse carborundum can eat away zdp 189 real fast, as i discovered.