zdp189 and sandpaper

T

Threethreethree

Joined
May 30, 2013
Messages
117
Hi there

Im gonna get a ffg zdp delica soon and i was wondering how the steel responded to wet or dry sandpaper.

Thanx
 
For light maintenance and touch-ups, should be OK. If trying to re-bevel, I'd strongly recommend a diamond bench hone. I learned this the hard way a while back, in attempting to completely re-bevel a ZDP Leek. Even on a small diamond hone (Lansky system), going was very slow. Switched to an 8" x 3" coarse diamond hone (DMT), and difference in speed is night & day.


David
 
I was planning a thin convex at around 25 inclusive and to be frank even s30v can be tediously long when there is stock to be removed from a thickish factory edge...
 
Threethreethree said:
I was planning a thin convex at around 25 inclusive and to be frank even s30v can be tediously long when there is stock to be removed from a thickish factory edge...
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I think S30V takes a bit longer for such a job, but ZDP is still very slow-going, if significantly thinning the grind. Lots of metal to remove. At refinement stages though, ZDP doesn't seem so bad by comparison. On wet/dry paper, a hard backing like glass will make the abrasive work more aggressively; more so, if the paper is glued or otherwise fixed to the backing. Works much like a SiC stone that way.


David
 
Interesting, i did not know s30v was longer to grind than zdp, but that makes sense considering the V carbides vs the CR carbides...
How about m4 ? I keep hearing it takes a very good edge without much effort but how is the heavy grinding on it ?
 
on a two-sided carborundum, it's almost the same. the zdp is harder but the s30v seems tougher. the difference is that the s30v throws up a burr, so you can see whether or not you've apexed the edge. with zdp you have to feel the edge.

the delica has a very thin edge. don't try to grind it aggressively even in sandpaper, even if it's zdp 189.
 
Threethreethree said:
Interesting, i did not know s30v was longer to grind than zdp, but that makes sense considering the V carbides vs the CR carbides...
How about m4 ? I keep hearing it takes a very good edge without much effort but how is the heavy grinding on it ?
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Never tried M4. I mentioned S30V as taking longer than ZDP, based on my own experience in re-bevelling a ZT-0350 in that steel. So far, that's the big, bad daddy of the slowest-grinding steels I have tried. Ruined 2 Lansky hones (standard, not diamond) and used up most of what was left of an already-worn Lansky diamond hone in that job.


David
 
hank_rearden said:
on a two-sided carborundum, it's almost the same. the zdp is harder but the s30v seems tougher. the difference is that the s30v throws up a burr, so you can see whether or not you've apexed the edge. with zdp you have to feel the edge.

the delica has a very thin edge. don't try to grind it aggressively even in sandpaper, even if it's zdp 189.
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Good advice. And I'll throw in, "...especially if it is ZDP-189."

It's brittle stuff. I managed to break the tip on my ZDP leek while stropping on cardboard & compound over glass. I'd just re-bevelled it to a very thin edge angle, and the tip was very pointy before I started that. At the high hardness of that blade, just a little too much pressure can snap a delicate tip in a hurry. In my case, it did. :(


David
 
Alright i take good note of that as i'm a little heavy handed when using sandpaper, i also read a few horror stories about zdp chipping off ceramic rods and such...
 
less pressure, more repetitions. while sharpening don't think of your enemies or rock music. play soft classical. :D
 
Threethreethree said:
Just off curiosity, what angle did you grind on that 0350 and how wide the bevel looked once done ?
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Not sure what the angle turned out to be, exactly. On the Lansky system, I just used the lowest angle setting ('17'). I do know that the marked angle settings on the clamp are referenced to the angle measured at the immediate front edge of the clamp (I measured/calculated to verify this). With the ZT's wide blade, I'm sure the finished angle had to have been below 15°/side, and more likely down around 12°-13°/side, if not less. The finished bevels were ~1/8" wide or so. That's compared to the original bevels being maybe half that width or less. Had to grind a LOT of steel from that one; finished about 6 hours later. :yawn:


David
 
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