Zero grind: Disadvantages?

David Schott

David Schott

Joined
Sep 27, 2004
Messages
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I have a fine little fixed blade in the works. Its 3/16" stock with a 3.5" blade. Nice wavy clay hamon and coming out great so far. After post HT grinding and hand sanding, the edge is 99.9% to a full zero grind. I actually stropped one portion and it took a sick scary edge that cuts hairs above the skin upon contact...sharper than a razor.

If I were to take the entire length to a full zero grind and strop, i'd end up with a very scary sharp edge but I am a bit concerned that it may be a delicate edge. This is a small fixed blade, only 7.5" OAL and slim....I calculate the edge angle at zero grind to be about 11 degrees with a 1" tall blade bevel and 3/16" stock. This is very acute...

I guess my question is: If this knife is to be sold, would some buyers actually desire such an acute and sharp edge, or should I make a secondary microbevel at 20-25 degrees like a normal blade?

Some part of me thinks people might want a really fine slicing blade, and that they could always apply their own bevel if that initial scary edge deteriorated...I carry a very small fixed blade with such an edge and love it, but do no heavy cutting or chopping with it beyond opening packages and general daily slicing of soft materials. I am concerned that a 11 degree micro convex bevel might sustain damage pretty easilly....

Any opinions?
 
If I may ask, what steel are you using for this? I'm guessing because of the highly visible hamon that it's a 10XX steel or similar, and I'd like to know so that if someone else responds to your query it will answer my questions regarding zero grinds, too (I almost exclusively use 1095).
 
Yes, this is 3/16" 1095, Differentially clay hardened. Approximately 1" high primary bevel to edge (creates two right triangles with 3/32" width, 1"height and 5.5 degree angles for a combined primary bevel of 11 degrees to zero grind...probably a degree or two more obtuse due to stropping, which will make a micro convex edge)
 
Speaking as a user not a builder, I would prefer the Zero grind. In my opinion, far too many makers are sending out blades that are too thick just behind the edge. We users have to spend hours re profiling and that always makes for an ugly looking relief bevel.
 
I would say it depends on what you intend it to be used for (or, really, what the user intends to use it for). If the user is just going to be slicing with it, then there is no need for another bevel. Anyway, I would agree with you: as a user, I'd want a zero grind from a maker, even if I don't want it ultimately. IMHO it is more desirable to put my own secondary bevel on an edge than to "fix" someone else's.
 
Very interesting! I wouldn't have guessed that! I will offer it up with the zero bevel. I would think most buyers in the custom market have sharpening tools and abilities of some kind. My EDC holds up really well and all I do is strop it on my pants or its sheath and i love the edge for my EDC needs.
 
I think that if you have a nice looking zero grind (and everything looks even) then go with it.

I'm just learning to grind, and as I get near to zero ground I find that any unevenness in the grind really starts to show up. Then a steeper second bevel kind of hides that. (I'm not talking about severe problems in the first place). I've got a large recurve Bowie in the works and as I get closer to the final grind I'll have to make the same decision.
 
Make sure you post pictures of this one, as I love seeing your stuff anyway!
 
TikTock said:
I have a fine little fixed blade in the works. Its 3/16" stock with a 3.5" blade. Nice wavy clay hamon and coming out great so far. After post HT grinding and hand sanding, the edge is 99.9% to a full zero grind.
Click to expand...

As a user, the zero grind is attractive. However if anyone resharpens it in the normal way for zero grind scandi knives, they'll immediately destroy all the work you put in (and they paid for) on showing off the hamon. If they don't resharpen it in the scandi way (whole bevel flat on the stone), they're adding the secondary grind you didn't want to.

Looks like you've got a real conflict between appearance and function here...

Dan Pierson
 
Very true. The zero grind will initially be easy since it was done in the fabrication of the blade, but will indeed be impossible to correctly reapply without destroying the finish. Dilemna! I'll see how it all pans out. Perhaps a microbevel or micro convex bevel is the best way to go
 
What I found with the zero grind is that they would slice hairs in mid air....for a while. To sharpen them it was essentially, a Japanese polish job.

The biggest disadvantage is that it needs regrinding much quicker than a secondary bevel. I'd leave it for the swords that will only slice occasional human flesh and perhaps a steel tower or two.
 
:)
Ill put a microbevel on it..i think it feels just too thin being true flat to zero. I finished up the scales...i cut both from the one slab of maroon micarta I had. Nice stuff I dont usually deal with. Ill post up pics later this week! Thanks for the advice!
 
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