Zero Tolerance Disassembly Policy

E

Erik Norseman

Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
78
Hi all,

First time poster here. I have done a little searching around and it seems that ZT does allow user disassembly without voiding the warranty, but I just wanted to make sure. Strictly speaking, does anyone know if it is okay for me to, e.g., take apart my 0450 for bearing maintenance?

Please also let me know if this question is better asked in another discussion board.

Thanks very much in advance!

Best,
Norseman
 
I have disassembled a couple zt for maintance. I have requested screws and washers for replacment. I let them know i was replacing the parts and they sent them without any issues.
 
dsalazar said:
I have disassembled a couple zt for maintance. I have requested screws and washers for replacment. I let them know i was replacing the parts and they sent them without any issues.
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Great to know. I took a look inside and saw that a couple of balls in the bearings had some oxidation stains on them and some black gunky build up around them.
Any one have suggestions for cleaning mild corrosion off bearings? Ethanol bath didn't do much for corrosion, although it did get the gunk off rather well.
 
Erik Norseman said:
Great to know. I took a look inside and saw that a couple of balls in the bearings had some oxidation stains on them and some black gunky build up around them.
Any one have suggestions for cleaning mild corrosion off bearings? Ethanol bath didn't do much for corrosion, although it did get the gunk off rather well.
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i use 99% rubbing alcohol, you can also use nail polish remover just dont use it with anything with G10. soap and water work fine too, just make sure it dries completely before assembling. then apply some lubricant to protect against more corrosion.

tuff glide
blue lube
diawa reel oil
mineral oil if you use for food prep as its food safe
etc.

avoid the expensive snake oil like nano oil (its just mineral oil).
 
Mo2 said:
i use 99% rubbing alcohol, you can also use nail polish remover just dont use it with anything with G10. soap and water work fine too, just make sure it dries completely before assembling. then apply some lubricant to protect against more corrosion.

tuff glide
blue lube
diawa reel oil
mineral oil if you use for food prep as its food safe
etc.

avoid the expensive snake oil like nano oil (its just mineral oil).
Click to expand...

Great, thanks. I currently have daiwa reel oil for pivot and from time to time apply some frog lube to my blades. Are any of those other lubes you mentioned a bit heavier weight than daiwa? I'm looking for something to place on detent tracks/balls and for the tangs of backlock/axis lock knives.

I will also try some isopropanol on the bearings and see how it goes. Some tomato juice got in there and they are being very stubborn.

-N
 
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Erik Norseman said:
Great, thanks. I currently have daiwa reel oil for pivot and from time to time apply some frog lube to my blades. Are any of those other lubes you mentioned a bit heavier weight than daiwa? I'm looking for something to place on detent tracks/balls and for the tangs of backlock/axis lock knives.

I will also try some isopropanol on the bearings and see how it goes. Some tomato juice got in there and they are being very stubborn.

-N
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i dont see why you need a heavier weight? how much lube are you applying? you can apply the lube and then wipe it away and there would still be plenty on it.
 
I use white lithium grease for the caged bearings. Benchmade blue lube is a little thicker than oil. I use that for the detent ball. I put one drop in the detent hole.
 
Mo2 said:
i dont see why you need a heavier weight? how much lube are you applying? you can apply the lube and then wipe it away and there would still be plenty on it.
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I've never used a heavier weight oil, so I'm just curious to try it out. Daiwa is all I've really used, and I've heard some people talk about using a heavier weight oil along detent tracks and on detent balls, the idea being that I guess it stays on there longer? Less likely to dribble out over time?

What are the different weights for? Why would someone want a heavier vs. a lighter weight oil and how are they meant to be used?
 
A light oil may make a certain knife drop free but not last. A thicker oil may make the same knife smooth but not drop free. Although this action may last longer. This has been my experience. Then you have mineral oil which is food safe. I usually keep tuffglide, blue lube and white lithium grease handy. These cover all my bases.
 
Makes sense. Thanks, dsalazar.
How would you order tuffglide, blue lube, and white lithium grease in terms of heaviness of weight? Increasing and in the order?
Would something like daiwa reel oil be lighter than even tuffglide, and mineral oil lighter still?
 
I don't see why people put that much lube on that it even matters tbo.
 
I haven't used mineral oil or daiwa. Tuff glide is lighter than blue lube. White lithium is the thickest as it's a grease. I only use the grease for the bearing flippers. I use blue lube for almost all other ones. Tuff glide is only for a couple of knives I have that slow down with blue lube.
 
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Mo2 Mo2 Everyone has their own preferences--it depends on the knife and what they like. I'm still experimenting to find out what I like best, which is why I'm asking.

D dsalazar Fair enough. Thanks for the input!
 
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