ZT 0561 Blade play after a couple days?

Comeuppance

Fixed Blade EDC Emisssary
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
4,765
So, this is thread three or four I've made about this knife. Two before, two after. First, it arrived dull, and now it has front-to-back blade play after just opening and closing it a bunch.

It's very little blade play - I can feel it and hear it better than I can see it. Should I send it in, or will it wear in? Yeah, I'm nitpicking, but, hey, $200 knife...
 
I was set to buy an 0561 until I started reading all these threads about people having problems with them. Seems for $200+ that there should be some measure of quality control.

I went and bought a Hogue EX-01 instead. Should be here in a few days.

Sorry that you're having problems - yes, send it back.
 
I was set to buy an 0561 until I started reading all these threads about people having problems with them. Seems for $200+ that there should be some measure of quality control.

I went and bought a Hogue EX-01 instead. Should be here in a few days.

Sorry that you're having problems - yes, send it back.

It's not that there are an inordinate amount of problems - There are manufacturing variations, as with any production knife. I'm kinda nitpicking, honestly. The blade was sharp but not all that sharp, and it has a barely noticeable amount of blade play front to back. The good thing is that their warranty department is supposed to be amazing. It should cost me about $3-5 in shipping to send it in and have it fixed/replaced. It could only be better if they paid for shipping.

I do have to point out the irony in there being any problems with a brand called "Zero Tolerance."
 
I was set to buy an 0561 until I started reading all these threads about people having problems with them. Seems for $200+ that there should be some measure of quality control.

I went and bought a Hogue EX-01 instead. Should be here in a few days.

Sorry that you're having problems - yes, send it back.

I'm actually in the same boat. I think part of it has to do with the sheer number of these knives they sell (this has to be a top 5 high(ish) end production folder in terms of sales), but its really hard to ignore. I know they have a great customer service department, but the thought of buying a brand new knife and having to ship it out again right away sounds pretty miserable.
 
I have to admit I'm a bit skeptical. I don't own a 561 but I do own a 301 and a 350. But the 561 uses the same locking mechanism. The lock bar comes out and engages the blade. What stops it from engaging further is the knife goes fully open, jamming the blade between the lock bar and the travel stop resulting in zeor play in this plane. I have to try very hard to come up with a scenario that allows slop in that joint.

you can you can't see it but can "hear it" and "feel it". Are you sure you don't have a joint popping? My guess is you are imagining it--trying too hard to sense what isn't really there. Have a buddy or 2 confirm it is there.

My suggestion is that you relax and enjoy your great knife. It is a wonderful knife and will give you lots of enjoyment.

As for the dullness, almost all knives are factory dull. You shouldn't ever buy a $200 knife without a strategy for sharpening it. either you own a sharpening system such as the Wicked edge that I use or you plan to have it professionally sharpened. I thought the ZT knives I've received were relatively sharp from the factory. I love the steel in them and they got very sharp with only 1000 grit stones. I can split hairs while still attached to my arm.

Good luck,
Jerry
 
I know the feeling of "But I don't want to send it out" when you get a knife.
As far as the blade play, it could need the pivot tightened a little bit.
That issue shouldn't be present.
It could be flexing too and you just think it's play but it's actually the blade/lock flexing with the pressure.

Try tightening the pivot, and try not wrenching on the blade. Some people use a lot of force to check for play, you really don't need to. If you're being too hard on it you're likely causing flex, especially if it's slight and barely noticeable.

If it doesn't have play with a little pressure/force, then it's a non-issue.

If tightening it and just using a little pressure doesn't help, send it in.
 
I'm actually in the same boat. I think part of it has to do with the sheer number of these knives they sell (this has to be a top 5 high(ish) end production folder in terms of sales), but its really hard to ignore. I know they have a great customer service department, but the thought of buying a brand new knife and having to ship it out again right away sounds pretty miserable.

The main problem I've heard is that they can be stiff to open. My 350OR was stiff. It was caused by too strong a spring. I opened it up and bent the spring to weakend it a and now it is just fine--not as smooth at the 301--nothing is.

for those of you who want the absolute smoothest and tightest knife out there, I recommend the ZT300 or 301. I've never flipped one open that wasn't just perfect.

--Jerry
 
Well, I went back and read some of your posts. You describe "playing with it all day", which makes me wonder if you wore out the lock bar a bit.
I understand $200+ is a lot of money for a knife, but you still need to understand the limitations of the mat'l.
Go ahead and send it back to KAI and they will fix it, but chances are you will get the same issue again.
As far as sharpness goes, if I were going to shave with my knife then I would be disappointed if it weren't shaving sharp, but I use a razor.
Most companies are putting a serviceable edge on a blade and leaving it up to the new owner to touch it up to their liking.
If you enjoy flicking your knife all day, perhaps you could look into a steel frame lock or even a liner lock. The mating surfaces are much more compatible and won't wear nearly as much as titanium.
 
The main problem I've heard is that they can be stiff to open. My 350OR was stiff. It was caused by too strong a spring. I opened it up and bent the spring to weakend it a and now it is just fine--not as smooth at the 301--nothing is.

for those of you who want the absolute smoothest and tightest knife out there, I recommend the ZT300 or 301. I've never flipped one open that wasn't just perfect.

--Jerry

I love almost everything about the 301, except the recurve. I went back and forth on it, but ultimately I decided I disliked that feature enough to knock it down the list. I really like the 561s and an overly stiff detent really isn't much of an issue for me- I don't mind having to work a little to flip it open. My main concern is the lock rock. I've been considering the spyderco tuff and the southard as well, but the tuff may be too much in the pocket and the southard may be too dainty (though I'd be willing to be corrected here) and isn't as left handed friendly on the clip.
 
I'll address a bunch of replies at once here:
- I hadn't really considered that I could have been causing lockbar flex. I can actually see the thumbstud move away from the frame with only firm pressure, but it may actually just be metal flexing. I, too, think it's strange for a framelock to have any sort of front-to-back play, but I have come across videos of people with 0560s/0561s at maybe 75% lockup that still have front to back play. I've yet to find a satisfactory reason for this.

- Sharpness isn't really an issue now. I did sharpen it, and it took an edge amazingly and with little time or effort, but it was surprising that it didn't come exacto-crazy-sharp. For $200, I expected to be able to accidentally split atoms if I moved the knife too quickly. I'm a victim of my own unrealistic expectations.

- I've been playing with it frequently to break it in, and it's now silky smooth. The lock disengages quite a bit more easily than it did when I first got it. I actually bruised my fingertips on day one. The lock bar doesn't seem to have moved at all - still at roughly 30%.

- I did tighten the pivot, with no appreciable difference. I was actually very surprised that tightening the pivot didn't drastically affect the opening. I noticed no difference whatsoever, which I suppose speaks well of the ball bearing pivot.

I don't think I'll be sending it in - I tend to nitpick expenses, and I, of course, will pour over a $200 knife and look for flaws with much more scrutiny than one of my Enlans. Thank you all for your responses, I really do appreciate it :)
 
I read ya brother!
I just spent nearly $500 on a knife and you better believe I'm going to go over it with a microscope.
 
Glad to hear its better and the lock quality have improved! The only titanium frame lock I've ever played with (not ZT) never improved and it is sort of a downer. It isn't my knife, but I know its owner has been extremely disappointed. Breaking in a knife is ok, so long as it turns out the way you want at the end!
 
Vertical play isn't going to fix itself. You spent a lot of money on that knife, get your money's worth. I don't believe you could damage the lock opening it repeatedly, that is ludicrous. Maybe a few thousand openings but not this soon.
 
So, this is thread three or four I've made about this knife. Two before, two after. First, it arrived dull, and now it has front-to-back blade play after just opening and closing it a bunch.

It's very little blade play - I can feel it and hear it better than I can see it. Should I send it in, or will it wear in? Yeah, I'm nitpicking, but, hey, $200 knife...



Ah, first world problems... :rolleyes:


Instead of five, six or seven more threads about why you're unhappy etc why not just send it in to ZT and see what they'll do to fix it?

Not that it matters much but my 0560 was flawless and a truly exceptional knife. ALL ZT's I've had have been superb (two 0350's, one 0551, one 0550, two 0300's, one 0560, and one 0121).


Give ZT the chance to make this right.
 
I have to admit I'm a bit skeptical. I don't own a 561 but I do own a 301 and a 350. But the 561 uses the same locking mechanism. The lock bar comes out and engages the blade. What stops it from engaging further is the knife goes fully open, jamming the blade between the lock bar and the travel stop resulting in zeor play in this plane. I have to try very hard to come up with a scenario that allows slop in that joint.

you can you can't see it but can "hear it" and "feel it". Are you sure you don't have a joint popping? My guess is you are imagining it--trying too hard to sense what isn't really there. Have a buddy or 2 confirm it is there.

My suggestion is that you relax and enjoy your great knife. It is a wonderful knife and will give you lots of enjoyment.

As for the dullness, almost all knives are factory dull. You shouldn't ever buy a $200 knife without a strategy for sharpening it. either you own a sharpening system such as the Wicked edge that I use or you plan to have it professionally sharpened. I thought the ZT knives I've received were relatively sharp from the factory. I love the steel in them and they got very sharp with only 1000 grit stones. I can split hairs while still attached to my arm.

Good luck,
Jerry

#1 It is called rock lock, read up on it a bit. His is not the first 56x to have reported blade play.
#2 I have never had a factory knife that did not shave hair. Any knife costing that much should be sharp and not have blade play. You don't even know the guy and are claiming he is imagining things?! How about a little respect.

To the op, yes CS is touted as one of the best at ZT, so get it fixed if it bothers you enough. You spent the cash, do as you wish.
 
To add to nccole's statement, carlsbad states he doesn't won the 561 then tells the guy "it's a wonderful knife"???
 
The "blade play" may be lock flex and not actual play at all which I have experienced on both my 056x knives. It only occurs if I grab the blade tip and push with some force and is so minimal most would never notice it. ZT will sharpen that knife for free for life so if you want it sharp send it in and they will take care of you. That 200 dollar knife has a lifetime warranty that ZT is awesome at honoring. Give them a call and they will take care of you.
 
HUH! I was going to buy my first ZT but it seems I can get the same thing with the Emersons which i already have.
 
I know this is kind of old but I have an early model 560 that has a little blade play. I am almost possitive that it's just frame flex. As in the lockbar flexing towards the spine and closing the gap behind the lockbar. I was considering sending it in just because i'm super ocd when it comes to my knives but I don't know if it can be remedied? Unless on the newer models the geometry is different or the gap is smaller? The knife will not fail and the play is very minimal so I don't think it's much of a problem. Overall for the money I love the knife. In fact I like it as almost as much as my smf and insingo that cost over twice what these cost.
 
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