ZT 0566: Several Questions! Help Very Appreciated

VermontEdge

VermontEdge

Joined
Jun 10, 2015
Messages
1,144
Hey All,
So, purchased my second Zero Tolerance today, a 0566, and I'm in love.

The flipper is on the tight side, but it's nothing unreasonable. My finger is a little sore but probably because I've been compulsively opening and closing it since I got it!

At the shop, I noticed the tiniest bit of blade play but I figured that I would just tighten it when I got home. I did, and the play is gone, but the action is noticeably slower. It hasn't failed to open, I can just tell that the pivot screw is tighter, which leads to my first question:

Question 1: Is there any damage or adverse effect that could happen from the screw being this tight? I don't mind the action the way it is as long as it won't result in anything bad for the knife in the long run. I'd rather have it like this and with no blade play than the other way around.

Question 2: once I know how tight to make the screw, do people recommend a drop of blue loctite? I've never used it before, but I like the "set it and forget" concept of sealing the screw.

Also, is it just a drop right on the threads?

Furthermore, if some point this coming winter/fall I wanted to swap out the scales for a custom option, would the loctite keep me from being able to undo the screws at all? Does it run the risk of stripping the screw down the line?

Question 3: like I said, the flipper is certainly hard to press, but manageable. However, the like is SUPER hard to disengage. Often times I have to use my other hand. Is this normal? Something that I can expect to have loosen up in time? I'm curious to hear any feedback on this.

Besides these questions I truly, truly love this knife, much more than my 0350. I'm very excited to get some answers to these questions and start using this beast!

Thanks in advance.

Best,
-Taylor
 
I do not recommend using loctite on ZT pivot holes/screws. I've bought a couple that were guncked up with it and had to strip down and clean for top performance.

Sounds like you have strong detent. Not unusual with ZT. Usually they will work out within a week or so. It can help in the break in period to store the knife in an open position so the lock bar is at its widest expansion.

You can tighten the pivot so there is no play in the blade. I don't understand #3..."the like is SUPER hard to disengage." ???? What's a "like"???
 
Eyedog! Thanks for your input!

Number 3 was a typo. Sorry about that. Should read "lock".
 
VermontEdge said:
Eyedog! Thanks for your input!

Number 3 was a typo. Sorry about that. Should read "lock".
Click to expand...

As to #3 no, that is not normal once broken in. It may be the pivot tightening is causing that. You want the pivot tight enough so there is no or very minimal blade play. Too tight and the blade won't flip and lock up may be affected.

Let me know how it goes as there are a couple of other things you can do but they are aggressive to reduce the strong detent.

Another option...before you get to deep in it is to take it back to where you got it. If they had more than one maybe you could exchange it.

You can also send it to ZT to have them adjust it.

Mike
 
VermontEdge said:
Question 3: like I said, the flipper is certainly hard to press, but manageable. However, the like is SUPER hard to disengage. Often times I have to use my other hand. Is this normal? Something that I can expect to have loosen up in time? I'm curious to hear any feedback on this.
Click to expand...

On opening a stiff or tight frame lock...try using your index finger. Turn the knife upside down as in the photo. You can engage the lock bar with your index finger while using your thumb to push the blade so it disengages. It's a one handed open.

2218a483823cc9842f7d94e12f2ca081.jpg
 
Scribe some pencil lead on the end of the blade tang that contacts the lockbar to stop the lock stick during breakin period. Keep using the knife and it will break in nicely.
 
Hey guys. Many thanks to you both! I'm not sure if the lock has broken in or if my thumb was just super sore from that first day, but the one handed closing is a lot easier now. Thanks, Mike, for the index finger trick, it might take some practice but I'll give it a shot.

I noticed that on the 0566 (when compared to my 0350) that the surface of the lock is super, super smooth. I hit it with some 100 grit sandpaper today to rough up the surface and I think that helped a little as well.

This thing is certainly getting better as I keep using it. Becoming a favorite more and more.

Thanks again!
 
Great...looks like you're getting it worked in. It is a terrific knife. I have the M390 blade...unreal edge retention.

Mike
 
Mike,

Playing around with your technique: wow! It never occurred to me to close a framelock this way but it's so intuitive. Many, many thanks.

Now, back to flipping my knife over and over again!
 
EyeDog said:
On opening a stiff or tight frame lock...try using your index finger. Turn the knife upside down as in the photo. You can engage the lock bar with your index finger while using your thumb to push the blade so it disengages. It's a one handed open.
Click to expand...

That's the technique I stumbled upon with my hard to close 452cf.
 
Rey HRH said:
That's the technique I stumbled upon with my hard to close 452cf.
Click to expand...

At least 452cf has some space to get your finger between the two frame sides. But I also use this technique with the 452cf.

I wish there was more consistency with lockbar sizes. The 801 is the easiest since the lockbar is slightly taller than the frame side.

Mike
 
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