Zt lock rock

Joined
Jul 25, 2017
Messages
145
Hello so i have a zt 0620 and 0630. My 0630 has a lock rock. Either i can flick it open and it flies put or i push the lock bar over and it works fine just i cant flick it over. i know its common for titanium framelocks but this uses a lock bar face insert. anyone have any advice? I've sent it into zt already and nothing has been fixed
 
Could you please clarify the issue? Lock rock is when the blade is opened and locked in position, it still has up and down blade play if forced. Is that the issue you are having? I have had two ZT's (0562cf and 0909) with lock rock. Both were relatively new so the issue was not due to excessive use. KAI fixed both I guess easily.
 
Could you please clarify the issue? Lock rock is when the blade is opened and locked in position, it still has up and down blade play if forced. Is that the issue you are having? I have had two ZT's (0562cf and 0909) with lock rock. Both were relatively new so the issue was not due to excessive use. KAI fixed both I guess easily.
I wont call it forced but if i pinch it lightly with two fingers i can move it up and down. But its fine if its left alone. im hoping if i keep waving it itll break in. its still somewhat new
 
Lock rock in my experience can be two things, either the tang is cut poorly or the lock bar face is too worn. It could also be like a lock slip, which sounds more like your case, which is like when the tang is cut too dramatically and when applying negative force it pushes out the lock bar. It interesting how zt didn't fix your issue, but maybe you need a new lock bar insert or something.
 
Lock rock in my experience can be two things, either the tang is cut poorly or the lock bar face is too worn. It could also be like a lock slip, which sounds more like your case, which is like when the tang is cut too dramatically and when applying negative force it pushes out the lock bar. It interesting how zt didn't fix your issue, but maybe you need a new lock bar insert or something.
First time I've heard of the term lock slip. I think thats it. Do you think if i keep opening and waving it it'll smooth out?
 
First time I've heard of the term lock slip. I think thats it. Do you think if i keep opening and waving it it'll smooth out?

I had the same issue with my 620. It wasn't locking up securely. A very light spine whack (more of a spine tap) would cause the lockbar to slip off the tang and the knife would shut. I thought it might wear in but because the steel lockbar tab wear was positively glacial speed.

First of all I recommend sending it back to ZT and make sure to explain your problem and note they didn't fix it last time. Ask them to make sure to check for lockslip this time before they ship it back.

Living in Canada this wasn't really an option for me. The only DIY fix that worked was taking the knife apart and bending the lockbar over enough that the lockup wasn't so early. (Bend the lockbar to the side where it would be going to the opposite scale, not the direction you push it when unlocking the knife.) This completely fixed the problem. It took a few tries because I didn't want to bend it too dramatically and cause an issue that way. So be gentle if you do this. The lockbar is very hard to bend far enough with your hand so I used a wrench to grab the lockbar for extra leverage. Put either a paper towel or cloth between the wrench and the lockbar so you don't scratch it.
 
I had the same issue with my 620. It wasn't locking up securely. A very light spine whack (more of a spine tap) would cause the lockbar to slip off the tang and the knife would shut. I thought it might wear in but because the steel lockbar tab wear was positively glacial speed.

First of all I recommend sending it back to ZT and make sure to explain your problem and note they didn't fix it last time. Ask them to make sure to check for lockslip this time before they ship it back.

Living in Canada this wasn't really an option for me. The only DIY fix that worked was taking the knife apart and bending the lockbar over enough that the lockup wasn't so early. (Bend the lockbar to the side where it would be going to the opposite scale, not the direction you push it when unlocking the knife.) This completely fixed the problem. It took a few tries because I didn't want to bend it too dramatically and cause an issue that way. So be gentle if you do this. The lockbar is very hard to bend far enough with your hand so I used a wrench to grab the lockbar for extra leverage. Put either a paper towel or cloth between the wrench and the lockbar so you don't scratch it.
I moved the lockbar over too and it works well just i cant flick it up , i need a bit of wrist. im sure if i keep playing with it i can tune it right. but it feels good knowing i want the only one with the problem
 
Thank you i will try using the alcohol trick

So you are saying if you just flick it then it will lockup in a way that causes lockslip? But if you add some wrist then it locks up more securely and there is no lockslip?

If that is the case try bending it a little bit more so the spring will have enough force to pop it into a more secure lockup with a flick or slow opening.

Also it occurs to me that when you sent it to ZT for repair they may have checked the knife by wrist flicking it open fairly hard. As a consequence the knife locked up securely and they thought it was fixed. Maybe send it to them again and specify that lockslip is happening when you slowly open the knife.
 
I wouldn't really suggest doing too much to the knife. Some times when you do something to solve one problem another will come. It's best to just let manufacture fix it or replace it.
I agree, and you Americans are fortunate as you can send your knife back to the manufacturer to get fixed with no fear of having it seized by over zealous border police. Unfortunately, here in Canada, that option is rather limited ( and I suspect a hidden agenda at work by TPTB) so we sometimes have to revert to our "MacGyver" skills.
 
Back
Top