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- Mar 6, 2008
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Honduras EDC review: (ZT MUDD, Kershaw Zing, Kershaw S110V shallot)
As some of you know, I recently went to Honduras for 1.5 weeks for a mission trip. I went with my church youth group, and we taught English at a local bilingual school, as well as performed puppet shows, songs, and did arts and crafts for the kids. I chose to take three knives with me, out of my 16 or so total, and these were the ZT MUDD, the Kershaw orange zing, and the Kershaw S110V shallot. This review will focus primarily on the MUDD, as I used this knife the most.
Let’s start off with impressions out of the box:
I acquired an x-out MUDD, as they are less expensive, and I knew that I would use it harder
.
Here are some “out of the box” photos: (sorry for the homemade quality
)
The first thing that anyone would notice is that this knife is GRIPPY. The G-10 is very aggressive, and feels quite tacky in the hand. For some, this is a plus, for others it could be a con, as it will tear up pockets if you don’t bend the pocket clip out a little. For me, I just bent out the pocket clip, and waited to see how the G-10 would turn out after using it a lot.
Some cool modifications I found on other forums: some installed tritium rods in the 3 slots on both sides of the knife for enhanced knife visibility in the dark. Others have applied glow-in-the-dark pain in the pivot “bowl.” These can be found on candlepowerforums.
The frame is made of 7-series aluminum. There is a thread on the difference between the strength of 6-series aluminum (used in most flashlights such as Surefire, Olight, Fenix, Nitecore) and Knives (Kershaw, ZT, Benchmade) and 7-series aluminum (custom flashlights, ZT MUDD.)
Info, courtesy of cutter17:
I know that this frame is anodized, and I believe it is Type III Mil-spec, just from my experience. I scratch up Type II after using it a bit in my Kershaw Blurs, but this handle just doesn’t want to become marked up! I’ve tried blue jean buttons, other knife spines, and the like, and it all just rubs off with a finger. It may be an even tougher coating than my Type III anodized ZT 0610ST auto’s (6-series aluminum by the way) handle.
Notice the blade is perfectly centered (even though my focus is near the spine, sorry)
Well how does this sucker open you ask? Well at first it feels smooth, yet “tight.” After 1000’s of opening though, it becomes smooth enough to flick open. The thumblugs (they aren’t really studs) are excellently made and ZT checkered them for full traction.
As you may have heard, this knife can be easily opened from the pocket in a wave-like fashion. This is true, and it is very easy to do so.
The blade thickness near the pivot and thumblugs is approx 3/16th’s of an inch thick, and nicely tapers down to a usable tip. The blade is made of 154CM steel, and is coated with Tugsten DLC with Rockwell hardness in the 80’s. The two white seals are made of polyurethane, and stop water, sand, grit, sludge, and of course mud from gunking up the pivot assembly. The actual pivot looks to be slightly larger than 3/8th’s of an inch in diameter, but the entire assembly which locks into the G-10 scale is slightly over ¾ of an inch in diameter. You need a spanner wrench to disassemble the knife completely, if one wishes to do so.
The screws locking in the G-10 are T-6 torx heads, while the pocket clip screw and the single body screw are T-8. This knife has an entirely wide open construction, so that all of the sludge that you bury the knife in cleans out quickly.
As some of you know, I recently went to Honduras for 1.5 weeks for a mission trip. I went with my church youth group, and we taught English at a local bilingual school, as well as performed puppet shows, songs, and did arts and crafts for the kids. I chose to take three knives with me, out of my 16 or so total, and these were the ZT MUDD, the Kershaw orange zing, and the Kershaw S110V shallot. This review will focus primarily on the MUDD, as I used this knife the most.
Let’s start off with impressions out of the box:
I acquired an x-out MUDD, as they are less expensive, and I knew that I would use it harder
.Here are some “out of the box” photos: (sorry for the homemade quality
)
The first thing that anyone would notice is that this knife is GRIPPY. The G-10 is very aggressive, and feels quite tacky in the hand. For some, this is a plus, for others it could be a con, as it will tear up pockets if you don’t bend the pocket clip out a little. For me, I just bent out the pocket clip, and waited to see how the G-10 would turn out after using it a lot.
Some cool modifications I found on other forums: some installed tritium rods in the 3 slots on both sides of the knife for enhanced knife visibility in the dark. Others have applied glow-in-the-dark pain in the pivot “bowl.” These can be found on candlepowerforums.
The frame is made of 7-series aluminum. There is a thread on the difference between the strength of 6-series aluminum (used in most flashlights such as Surefire, Olight, Fenix, Nitecore) and Knives (Kershaw, ZT, Benchmade) and 7-series aluminum (custom flashlights, ZT MUDD.)
Info, courtesy of cutter17:
I know that this frame is anodized, and I believe it is Type III Mil-spec, just from my experience. I scratch up Type II after using it a bit in my Kershaw Blurs, but this handle just doesn’t want to become marked up!
I’ve tried blue jean buttons, other knife spines, and the like, and it all just rubs off with a finger. It may be an even tougher coating than my Type III anodized ZT 0610ST auto’s (6-series aluminum by the way) handle. 
Notice the blade is perfectly centered (even though my focus is near the spine, sorry)
Well how does this sucker open you ask? Well at first it feels smooth, yet “tight.” After 1000’s of opening though, it becomes smooth enough to flick open. The thumblugs (they aren’t really studs) are excellently made and ZT checkered them for full traction.
As you may have heard, this knife can be easily opened from the pocket in a wave-like fashion. This is true, and it is very easy to do so.
The blade thickness near the pivot and thumblugs is approx 3/16th’s of an inch thick, and nicely tapers down to a usable tip. The blade is made of 154CM steel, and is coated with Tugsten DLC with Rockwell hardness in the 80’s. The two white seals are made of polyurethane, and stop water, sand, grit, sludge, and of course mud from gunking up the pivot assembly. The actual pivot looks to be slightly larger than 3/8th’s of an inch in diameter, but the entire assembly which locks into the G-10 scale is slightly over ¾ of an inch in diameter. You need a spanner wrench to disassemble the knife completely, if one wishes to do so.
The screws locking in the G-10 are T-6 torx heads, while the pocket clip screw and the single body screw are T-8. This knife has an entirely wide open construction, so that all of the sludge that you bury the knife in cleans out quickly.
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