What do you like in a Bush knife?

KFU

Part Time Knifemaker, Moderator
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
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So I have started making knives and have figured out what I like in a knife. I want to make my designs universal so I divgured I would get likes and dislikes from others to help me in my designs. What blade width and handle thickness do you like on a 3.5 to 4" knife? I myself like a wider blade but Im sure I will get alot of different answers.
 
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I like wide blades on field knives. Not crazy wide, but a 1 1/4" width on a 4" blade suits me well. I like fat handles too, up to an inch in thickness just seems to fit right. A plain, no frills design is always what catches my eye too. Put function first, and the form will follow naturally :thumbup: That knife in your avatar is a great example of a good looking knife that looks like a perfect woods companion.
 
I'm enjoying 1.5” on a 4”. It's wide enough to protect my weak hand when doing food prep but not so wide it makes for a butter paddle.
 
I have a 3 inch bladed knife that's 1 inch wide and seems fine to me. For me the thicker the stock the wider the blade needs to be IMO. This one is 1/8" thick. If I were to step up to 3/16", I'd go with 1.5 inch wide. It's more about the angle of the primary grind than a certain width. As far as handle width I'm fine with smaller ones. 1/2" thick would be a minimum though.
 
yup- you'll get a lot of different answers :) w/ a 3.5-4" knife, about 1" is what I've found to work best for me, needs to have a decent point too- see a fair # of knifes that have very little in the way of a point

handle wise I think this going to be very dependent on hand size, my hands are small to mediumi-ish and I prefer a thinner handle

now I know when pitdog posts, nothing under 2.5" wide blade will do :D
 
I have a 3 inch bladed knife that's 1 inch wide and seems fine to me. For me the thicker the stock the wider the blade needs to be IMO. This one is 1/8" thick. If I were to step up to 3/16", I'd go with 1.5 inch wide. It's more about the angle of the primary grind than a certain width. As far as handle width I'm fine with smaller ones. 1/2" thick would be a minimum though.

I very much agree with you on that matter but would like to add that while width will be partly determined by thickness (e.g. how much you have to widen the blade in order to reduce the grind angle so you still have a knife and not an axe) you can still make a wide blade out of thin stock in order to capitalize on concentration of mass behind the cutting edge. I generally like thin, broad blades for this reason, and depending on the design you can still incorporate a fine point. :)
 
5/32" or 3/16" thick steel at the spine, 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" wide, 4" long, high saber or flat grind drop or spear point and a handle around 1" wide by 3/4" thick in cross section at the widest point. no more than a small sharpening choil, no jimping, spine rounded for the first 1 1/2" out from the handle and flat for fire steels/shaving dust in front of that. minimal swedge if any.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. It seems like most are similar which kind of surprised me. I also like a wider blade of over an inch and 3/4 to 1" on handle thickness. The reason I asked the question is because you see alot of narrow blades for sale. I think a 1 1/4 wide blade in 1/8 steel is perfect for me and a thicker grip is more comfortable. This will give me a good idea of what might work better for the masses.
 
I very much agree with you on that matter but would like to add that while width will be partly determined by thickness (e.g. how much you have to widen the blade in order to reduce the grind angle so you still have a knife and not an axe) you can still make a wide blade out of thin stock in order to capitalize on concentration of mass behind the cutting edge. I generally like thin, broad blades for this reason, and depending on the design you can still incorporate a fine point. :)

I agree which is one reason you see quality kitchen knives wide and thin. It makes them a better cutter. On a knife I have to carry though I would opt for skinny and thin to reduce the amount of steel I have to carry.
 
Steve, I actually thought about that. I think I am going to list the 4 Im working on this week for like 85.00 witbh sheathbut you dont have to pay up front. You get to look them over and use them and if you think they are worth the money than you pay, if not you mail the knife back. I think it would be the fair way to do my first few sold. Ive been using three I made and am happy with the quality so I think its time to start earning material money! Does that sound like a fair plan?
 
Tknife, I will try to take some decent pics and post them. Im waiting on my light box so I can shoot some decent pics but Ill try. They are in various stages but it should give a decent example of my style.
 
I have a Helle Harmoni
It has a 3 1/2" blade by about 1"
It has quite a thick oval shaped 4" handle but is thin at the blade and thin and hooked at the end
It is sculpture to my hand

the most comfortable knife I have for both the blade length and handle
 
Here are two that I am using to test the heat treat. I only finished the blades with a quick scotchbrite but the others will have a hand rubbed or more refined scotch brite. The bottom two have been normalized and one has been ground. They are basically the same pattern with one being larger. The last one is finished but not sharpened. I wanted to try grinding flat from tip to butt so the top is 1/8 and the bottom is around 3/32. I don't know why but I thought it would be cool!
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Moving along quite fast as a newby, i knew it wouldnt take long after u got all set up! Keep the sparks flying bro! Good job
bill
 
These look great! And your idea is an interesting one. What will the sheaths look like?
 
Rockywolf, I am not a leather guy! Ive never even tried to make a sheath so I will be getting mine made for me by a custom leatherworker. He makes good stuff and is fast.
 
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