Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

screag01,
I am very interested in the MX (I think that is the belt for hard metal, I do not need the wood, plastic, aluminum sanding belts) line of belts, 1/2" x 12" are all .57, but shipping is crazy, LOL!!
What do you have in mind?
Please let me know.
Thanks!
 
Been experimenting with the WS a little today. I had noticed that, even though by my eyes I was holding a knife straight up on both the right and left sides of the belt, I was not always getting a consistent angle on each side. When freehanding or even when using a guide, sometimes the bevel would be cut a bit differently on the two sides. This usually took the form of a shallower, more acute angle on the left side of the blade, which was sharpened on the right side of the belt.

I am guessing that this is caused by one of two factors, or maybe a combination of the two: (1) My eyes have a slightly different perspective on the blade when it is positioned on the right side of the belt vs. the left side; (2) The downward moving belt on the right side might cut the blade in a slightly different way than the upward moving belt on the left side.

An additional issue I was having when using the "traditional" method of doing a stroke on the right side, then a stroke on the left, was the movement at the end of the stroke where the handle is lifted to follow the curve of the belly, and moved out a bit at the very end so as to keep the narrowing tip section in contact (lightly and slightly!) with the belt. I am right handed, and while this movement is pretty easy on the right side of the belt, on the left side, it is more awkward and difficult.

So, my experiment is that I tried sharpening with a normal swipe on the right side, and then instead of going to the left side, I turn the knife around and hold it with the blade facing me (hammer style). I then draw it back across the same right side of the belt, pulling it away from me.

This "pull away" method keeps the blade in about the same position relative to my eyes, so that the spine can be kept at a consistent angle for each stroke. It likewise means that all sharpening is being done with the belt moving downwards and away from the edge. Finally, it also affords a new way of doing the "lift handle up and (slightly) out" movement that any blade with a belly and a narrowing tip requires.

So far so good. The pull away movement is a little awkward at first, but gets easier with practice. It takes a little longer than the "normal" method, because you have to re-position the knife in your hand between every stroke. For that reason, when I'm in a hurry or just being lazy, I use the normal method. But when I'm being slow and deliberate, especially with a knife that's giving me trouble, I find this technique to be helpful. I'm still experimenting, and this could ultimately turn out to be a flop, but I thought others might like to try it.

Comments and criticisms are welcome.

Andrew
 
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Mob, could you tell me about your experience with the Sharpmaker? I've tried some of the guide type sharpeners like Lansky and Gatco and have found they don't work well for larger knives like my Ka Bar. I was hoping the Sharpmaker could do the trick.
Sorry for the late reply samurai,

My experience with the sharpmaker so far has been positive. The WorkSharp and Sharpmaker are my two favorite right now. The only trick with the sharpmaker is making sure your surface is level. It's a lot easier to use on larger blades IMO compared to others you listed. I've sharpened my Kabars just fine, as well as a few ESEE knives, Backers BK2 and 9, Spyderco Delicas, Sog Flash II, etc. all of them will get a razors edge with some practice. Your results may very.
 
Andrew: I find what you are describing about the angle being slightly different on the right and left side. With thicker blades it is more pronounced. However, I find that the knife is still very, very sharp. Your solution may be the answer, albeit, to a minor problem. Most of the time I am not using the guides, and am achieving great results with very little effort or time. However, I may try your approach and see the results. Regards, Bradley
 
Bradley, thanks for your comments. Let me know if you have any luck with the pull away method.

Andrew
 
OK, I went today and looked at one of these at my local retailer. I was ready to buy, and took the thing out of the box for a closer look. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to get my pocket knives ( I tried my sodbuster, stockman and barlow ) in the guides up to the kick (absolute heel of the blade) to make sure I sharpened the whole blade.

Every time I pushed in enough to make contact with the heel of the cutting edge of the blade the kick held the blade at the wrong angle until I got it outside the guide. I don't want to sharpen all but the last 1/8" of the cutting surface. I have many sharpeners now, and wanted something to easily touch up my less expensive work knives which in some cases get dull every day.

But if I have to sharpen free hand on this machine (easy enough to do), I might as well stay where I am with 12" diamond chef's rod.

Any thoughts?

Robert
 
Well I finally had a chance to open the shipping box and get my WSKS out. Andrew, I noticed after a couple strokes what you describe. I was trying to use as light a touch as possible, and on the down side the belt draws the blade in(down) while it will try to push it up out of the guide on the up side. Glad I bought some dollar store cheapies to start with, my (ahem) technique is going to require practice.
 
Well I finally had a chance to open the shipping box and get my WSKS out. Andrew, I noticed after a couple strokes what you describe. I was trying to use as light a touch as possible, and on the down side the belt draws the blade in(down) while it will try to push it up out of the guide on the up side. Glad I bought some dollar store cheapies to start with, my (ahem) technique is going to require practice.
 
Robert: Imho, small knives are easiest to sharpen w/o the guides. It is very quick and easy to achieve an extremely sharp edge along the entire length of the blade. The 220 grit is too coarse a starting point unless the knife is very dull. I purchased some intermediate belts and go from a 600 to 1800 and then 6000. I have been very impressed with the results after a slight learning curve. The drawing that Andrew did that show how to handle the tip has helped a great deal. Regards, Bradley
 
I agree, very helpful. And somewhere back in this thread, I believe, are some great photos showing how to do, and not do, the tips.

Andrew
 
Robert: Imho, small knives are easiest to sharpen w/o the guides. It is very quick and easy to achieve an extremely sharp edge along the entire length of the blade. The 220 grit is too coarse a starting point unless the knife is very dull. I purchased some intermediate belts and go from a 600 to 1800 and then 6000. I have been very impressed with the results after a slight learning curve. The drawing that Andrew did that show how to handle the tip has helped a great deal. Regards, Bradley

Thanks, Bradley. I am not afraid of using the machine without guides as I sharpen complex shapes with complex grinds on my lathe tools all the time. After about a year of practice, I became comfortable using sharpening equipment with no guides.

I am just intrigued with the idea of running a work knife like my RAT1 through the machine a couple of times and have it sharp. And if over a period of years I grind it down to nothing, I still got good service from it, and I can replace it inexpensively.

Robert
 
Somewhere in this thread belt cleaning block was mentioned. I have no idea what it may be, could somebody give a link?
Is it posible to clean hi-grit belts like 6000 with this tool? (it seems that lifetime of 6000 belt is a bit short, belt is getting clogged easily)

Mikhail
 
Thank You, Andrew
Too bad I can't find it locally, here in Russia.
One more question, is it working for fine grits? What material it's made of? (at least what it looks like, maybe I can try something as substitute)
 
+1 for the worksharp excellent customer service. Amazon royally f#@&%d up my oder by sending the unit in the retail packaging with only the two guides and one belt. I called worksharp last night and left a message and I received a phone call from them this morning. Long story short they are sending me all the missing items plus new belts at no charge.
 
Thank You, Andrew
Too bad I can't find it locally, here in Russia.
One more question, is it working for fine grits? What material it's made of? (at least what it looks like, maybe I can try something as substitute)

Mikhail,

I don't recall if I've used my belt cleaner on the finer grit belts yet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on them. Just hold the cleaner block against the belt as it's rotating and it'll remove a lot of gunk.

The link I put up shows what they look like. The material is like you'd find on a gummy eraser.

Andrew
 
Thank You, Andrew
Too bad I can't find it locally, here in Russia.
One more question, is it working for fine grits? What material it's made of? (at least what it looks like, maybe I can try something as substitute)

Countryman, cleaning tapes Grinder, and for this sharpener, I use dried silicone sealant.
 
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