0-1 quenching question

J

joeyp1971

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Apr 14, 2009
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36
First time trying to heat treat 0-1. My expreience thus far has all been with stainless. From what I have read, I need to get the blade into the oil very quickly from the oven (like in a few seconds). Question is - do I need wrap the blade in stainless foil to prevent decarb like I would stainless? If so, how do I get the blade out of the foil fast enough to get it into the oil? I don't believe I would quench the blade still wrapped?
 
The machine shop I worked in always wrapped O1 for heat treat. I never wrap for heat treating blades. I am not worried about the decarb because I come back and grind all that away anyhow.
 
You really don't have to use anything to prevent decarb since it won't be reaching the same temps as stainless. there will be a bit of decarb but not much. You could always use a think coat of Satainite or similar product to help with decarb.

You want it to be bare so that you can straighten it out if needed out of quench. You have a few seconds to straighten with a gloved hand before it gets fully hard.
 
joeyp1971 said:
First time trying to heat treat 0-1. My expreience thus far has all been with stainless. From what I have read, I need to get the blade into the oil very quickly from the oven (like in a few seconds). Question is - do I need wrap the blade in stainless foil to prevent decarb like I would stainless? If so, how do I get the blade out of the foil fast enough to get it into the oil? I don't believe I would quench the blade still wrapped?
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Its not so much the time from heat source to quench thats important; 01 takes a fast quench oil, the temperature of the steel needs to drop a certain amount in a certain amount of time.
01 likes stress relief after grinding or forging, I run 01 @ 1250fh for two hours before hardening.
Loosing carbon from any steel is something that should be monitored anytime the blade is being heated to or above critical temps.
01 steel needs time at temperature when it is being heated in preparation for hardening. For stock of blade thickness 10 or 15 minutes will do.
No foil wrap needed.
Another reason to use an anti scale compound other than decarb is it improves the surface condition of the blade after it is quenched. There is less work to do after the quench.
Good luck with the 01 blade, Fred
 
Fred.Rowe said:
Its not so much the time from heat source to quench thats important; 01 takes a fast quench oil, the temperature of the steel needs to drop a certain amount in a certain amount of time.
01 likes stress relief after grinding or forging, I run 01 @ 1250fh for two hours before hardening.
Loosing carbon from any steel is something that should be monitored anytime the blade is being heated to or above critical temps.
01 steel needs time at temperature when it is being heated in preparation for hardening. For stock of blade thickness 10 or 15 minutes will do.
No foil wrap needed.
Another reason to use an anti scale compound other than decarb is it improves the surface condition of the blade after it is quenched. There is less work to do after the quench.
Good luck with the 01 blade, Fred
Click to expand...

I understood it took a medium quench oil like Parks AAA or MCarr 28 second quench oil.
 
AVigil said:
I understood it took a medium quench oil like Parks AAA or MCarr 28 second quench oil.
Click to expand...

I use parks 50 for 01 but I'm not quenching blades either so you may be correct about this.

Fred
 
I use a fair amount of O-1.

Thin Satinite wash to protect the surface, 15 minutes at 1450-1475, quench in 130 degree Parks AAA. Temper at 450 for 2 hrs twice. Should give you about 59-60r.

Fast oil is stressful on O-1.
 
You are correct on the slower oil for 01.

I use Parks 50 for the 01 grinding clamps I make and it works well in this application. I tried several different oils for this, some slow and some medium but in the end after a lot of testing I found the Parks 50 gave me the results I was looking for. I don't know exactly why this is the case, but the testing proves out.

Fred
 
Fred, you are using thicker stock for your clamps??

Any problems I'v seen with fast oil has been on thin edges on ground blades. Lots of tiny fractures along the thin edge. Thicker stuff may not be as sensative.

I hear canola works okay w/ O-1, but I'v never used it.
 
Deweyknives said:
Fred, you are using thicker stock for your clamps??

Any problems I'v seen with fast oil has been on thin edges on ground blades. Lots of tiny fractures along the thin edge. Thicker stuff may not be as sensative.

I hear canola works okay w/ O-1, but I'v never used it.
Click to expand...

The clamps are 3/4 by 1/2 inch. For some reason when I used slower speed quenching oils, some of the clamps would be brittle along the clamping arms. What I do now is after they are formed into the loop, drilled and tapped, they go in the kiln for 2 hours @ 1250 for stress relief. When they are quenched, only the arms go into the oil, not the loop. I temper at 650, which should give around 55 HRC. What ever is going on with this heat treat formula, I've been getting almost 100percent consistency as opposed to 85 %. that I had been getting.
My interest is in toughness and abrasion resistance. Wish I could get 5160 in this dimention, that would solve a lot of things. Its not available that I can find.

Fred
 
Thanks Fred. I think O-1 has an embrittelment range around 550 degrees temper but have not yet had a reason to temper that high. If I do, I know who to consult.;)
 
There is no need to rush from the oven to the quench tank. The time starts when the piece hits the oil. When you read .5 - 2. seconds, that is the required quench speed from 1500F to 900F(or whatever temps you are using) You are worse off moving the vulnerable blade quickly through all that cold air, than doing it in one smooth controlled motion. Be safe, be confident.
 
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