0-1 tool steel cons

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FirstKnife

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Nov 9, 2007
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Hi i just got done buying all my supplies to make my own knive but i was wondering what the cons are of using 01 steel, since it is the easiest to work with.
 
It does rust easily. It also requires good temperature control for the best heat treat because it wants to soak at around 1500 degrees for 10 minutes or so. It's an oil quench steel that's pretty forgiving of quench speed.

What the last two points mean to you depends on how you plan to heat treat. A lot of the commercial heat treaters don't do oil hardening steels. A torch or forge without temperature control won't get the best out of the steel. That said, I used it for a year or two and still have some thicker stock that I'll do something with someday (I have an Evenheat oven). Most of my knives are made with 1/8 to 3/32 stock and I've decided I prefer air hardening steels and plate quench for that size. You're choices will likely be different.
 
Flat stock O1 is generally much more expensive than other perfectly good carbon steels like 1080/1084. O1 flat stock is usually available as precision ground stock, the cheap stuff is round stock.

O1 will let you heat treat again, the big plus that is touted about, but is it really all that important? If you manage to get 1084 past non-magnetic and stick it in some oil it'll make a reasonable knife, so it's not like there's some big voodoo involved here. If you're just using colors and magnets, you're just making an educated guess either way. I'd go with the cheaper steel.

O1 rusts faster than any other steel I've worked with, and is not, imho any easier to work with than other steels. Nothing wrong with using it, of course, but it's not any better for learning than other cheaper flat stock.

Just my opinion.
 
It is better for more than one reason. It is easier to work because it comes spheroidized annealed. It is as soft as possible. It is easy to drill. It is easy to saw, and easy to file. It will hold a better edge than the 10xx series steels. As stated, to get the best out of it, it requires a little more in the heat-treat, but even a simple heat treat will give you better edge holding than the simple steels, in my experience. The main con is the price, but for a great blade, and time and effort saved, I find it well worth the money. I made quite a few knives of 01 using a simple heat treat, before I got my oven, and all did very well, and I got a lot of praise for their edge holding ability from my customers. None have reported any problems.
 
People all talk about how fast O1 rusts, but it really doesn't rust that fast if you just put a good finish on your blade. a 600 grit finish is enough to ward off most rust for a very long time even without any oiling or the like.
 
We all have differing opinions, as can be seen.

I disagree that you'll get a noticeable difference in edge retention between higher carbon 10 series steels and O1 without a precise heat treatment and once you get into controlled heat treatment there are other options that will hold a better edge than O1.

The rusting might just be my area, the heat and humidity here in NC puts a hurting even on stainless steels.

Wasn't trying to step on toes, hope it helped.
 
Properly heat treated O1 will hold an edge longer than your typical 10xx series steel, simply due to the extra alloy goodies in it.

O1 has a few cons; it's not as easy to work with as many folks say. At least not working it properly, that is. O1 work hardens, while something like 1084 doesn't. You can take a 1084 blade, forge it and stick it in wood ash and let it cool down and you will be able to drill it. Try that with O1 and it'll laugh at you, when you attempt to drill it. Due to the extra alloy goodies in O1, you have to do a slow anneal, in order to work and drill it after forging.
 
If I'm not mistaken, O1 has carbide forming grain refiners such as vanadium that help make it a fine grained alloy that takes and holds a fine edge.

A down side, I believe there is a temper range that starts around 450F that you shouldn't use due to brittleness. So don't go too soft with it.
 
Danbo, he said he was using stock removal. The brittle range was covered by Mete', and Kevin just recently. It is not a significant concern for for the average knife, and involved only one particular type test. Randall knives are tempered well into this so called brittle range, and early in their long history were even more so in it. I think their reputation stands for itself.
 
There are several versions of tempering embrittlement, in the ranges we are discussing it would be TME (tempered martensite embrittlement). L6 has a much more significant embrittlement in the 450-550F range than O1. Most of the O1 I have worked with has more of a "plateu" in impact strength for that range than the typical dip like others have. I wouldn't consider it too much of an issue.

Fudging the heat treat with a torch or using a forge will put your tempering range more in the 380F-425F. Actually austenitizing the steel with a proper controlled soak will necessitate tempering to the higher temperatures and will yield a stronger and longer lived edge.

O1 was designed for many applications that involve slitting and cutting in industry, thus it make sense that if properly heat treated it will make a very good cutter. It is the best all around edge holder for the work that goes into it among the simpler steels, due to its nature and intended uses. But it really must be soaked and heat treated with care to appreciate it.
 
I have never had problems with rust on my O-1 blades, I put a high shine on them (buff shine with platinum polishing compounds ) that might be enough too not hold dust which is hydroscopic (most outside dust up here in upstate New York seems to have road salt in it for a good portion of the year)
I have used O-1 for years and I love it (except for the little carbide platelets that form after forging right where you want to drill it which is why I own diamond drill bits)
I do a relatively unscientific olive oil quench followed by oven tempering at 425-450 followed by torch draw on the spine, and the stuff just works (and it takes a high polish beautifully with a reasonable amount of work) I do not have the tools to scientifically analyze my work like Kevin does (insert emoticon for serious tool envy) but my very unscientific empirical testing of do something different, wear and abuse the blade (including all of the things we tell people not to do with their knives) and keep track of how long it lasts, how the edge wears/chips does the blade break/bend/crack and if so how long till, what caused it) has shown that this works well with O-1 ( better in my opinion than any other steel I have tried so far)
The downsides as I see them are: cost, carbide platelets dulling drills, and the stuff does not seem to move as nicely under the hammer as 1084.
On the other hand, if I need something that absolutely is going to work, O-1 will always be the first thing I reach for

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Right on Sunshadow, and thankyou Kevin. I always appreciate your input and knowledge on these subjects. MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL.
 
from an aftermarket perspective and is somebody currently sitting at the computer with a Daniel Koster 01 steel knife hanging around my neck. I can say I would have been happier buying a knife made in 01 than one of the 10 serious steals. Both have a reputation of being non-stainless. But from my perspective 01 seems to have a reputation for being tough and taking a good edge. It also seems to be featured in slightly higher in knives. Bettina and mild rust spots did occur on my knife, with a shocking rapidity. But I plan on buffing it out more I already tried this a little bit. I could send it back to be refinished but I don't want to bother him. I'm assuming using a fine grit sandpaper would be the best way to do this. there is a company that sells a buffing pad sandpaper and a sponge or neoprene type medium to make the process easier. I'm not disappointed with the knife is a very good deal all around. But honestly at my level of care in general use I think I would stick with stainless for me. I think it up cautionary note about proper maintenance would be appropriate with these steals. Not to say I didn't know better, but an extra nudge and the direction of precaution is always good.
 
Ask Daniel what he reccommends for taking care of his work, I usually reccommend Simichrome for mine if it does rust/patinate

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