01 Tool Steel Heat Treat for Newbie

I LOVE that third question. That's about as good a question as I have yet seen.

The reason for you seeing written that simple and low alloy steels are the only ones heat treated in such ways as you ask is because the high alloys require much more temperature and time at temperature control. That is the short answer. ...and therefore no, S30V is not recommended for the one brick forge.

RL
 
Heat treating complex steels like S30V and all the other stainless requires fine control of temps and timing. That means a digitally controlled heat treat oven. You're probably thinking of Paragon but there are several good HT ovens that makers use. A proper oven will cost around $1100.

Heat treating in a forge is mostly limited to simple carbon steels, where all you have to do is get it to critical and quench in oil or water. Another good (probably the best) option for simple carbon steels is a salt pot.

The simplicity of its heat treating is why I use O1. Eventually I'll have saved up enough to buy a good oven and then will use whatever steel I want. ;) I think it's important to do one's own HT if possible, just to keep the whole process under the maker's direct influence. Sending them off to someone else is also quite expensive and eats up a lot of time.
 
I HT my blades so I can maintain my progress and have an accurate due date for the customer. Plus I felt like when I sent off my early knives I wasnt sure what had been done to them. Now I am learning much more and feel better about my knives staying "In House".
I didnt like waiting on the knives to return from HT either. Added weeks to what I do now in 1 day.
 
My sincere feeling about it is if I leave the single most important part of knife making to someone else have I made a knife or just something that looks like a knife? We know that without the proper heat treating of the steel it is not much of a knife. I suppose there is an argument against my thinking. One might be is a rifle maker a rifle maker even though he has Douglas make his barrels? Sure, I see the point and it might be hard to argue against it. For me any how I just like being the one that makes the knife and without room for passing any blame. Except for that I gladly leave the sheath making to the sheath makers.

RL
 
Thanks fellas! Yes, Paragon, was one of them, and there was another too.
Anyhow, I thank you guys for clearing that up!
 
The one brick forge is seriouslythe easiest way to go. I made mine in less than ten minutes. Get a soft firebrick and a 2" wood drill bit. Drill a hole all the way through lengthwise, carve a slot in the bottom with an old hacksaw blade, and a hole in the side near the top so it interescts at the tangent of the lengthwise hole. You are done!

I will take pics in a few minutes and post them here. Ive only used a one brick forge on all my knives and ive gotten into hamon work and such.

0-1 is very forgiving. It is much easier for a new maker to used because, and someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I think you have up to 5 seconds to get the blade out of the forge and into the quenchant, wheras something like 1095 you really need to be a fast bastard to pull, flip, and quench in about a second.
 
I'm looking foward to seeing these pics. Although my berzomatic only has a small tip. Maybe I could get some propane burners...would that work?
Mike
 
Heat treating well is easy. Heat treating super well is a lifetime skill. But you can beat anything the knife and tool stores sell your first time out. You don't need a brick, another way is to pack the bottom of a coffee can with a combination of pearlite/vermiculite, and refractery cement (home depot). Add as much filler as the cement will hold and still be workable. then place your propane cylinder into the can, and pack around that. When the cement firms a little withdraw the cylinder, and allow a lot of time for it to dry. Drill one or two holes in the isde for your torch.

To differentially heat treat O1, put some refractory cement on the back half of the blade, while it is still wet, heat the steel to non-magnetic, and then put it back in for a little more. quench in Olive oil. Heat to 400 in your oven for 1 hour. Don't carry the cement all the way to the point, or it may not harden.

With small tools, pocket knife size, you can heat to critical with just two propane torches.
 
Making a small forge seems to be fairly easy thanks to all of the above ideas. Have a couple questions though. The inside of the above small forges is about 8-9" long. How many torches need to be placed along that length? Should the torches be directed so the flame enters at the edge of the opening causing (theoretically) the flame/heat to spin around the inside of the forge? Am I making too big a deal of all this?

Thanks...Curt

torch.jpg
 
There are a variety of things that will influence the number of torches needed starting with the size/efficiency of your forge and the output of your torch/torches.

The one brick forges work best with some type of turbo torch; such as either the JTH7 or JT539T

You can see a brick forge and JTH7 torch on Chris Crawford's site. Look in the "Shop Tour" section; it's in the backgroud of the photo marked "A close up view of the forge before going into operation." There is also info/photos on one brick forges here, here, and here (look in the "Forge Gallery").

If you notice in the picture on Chris's site of his homemade forge (in the foreground); he is using a homemade venturi type burner. You can find info on burners (Venturi or blower) here, here, and and here.

In fact you , here are most of the other links I have on gas forges:
http://www.agocschiropractic.com/knives/paintcanforge.pdf
http://www.roninknives.com/the_craft/provburner.pdf
http://www.metalsmithinghowto.com/w...N=33227673&jsessionid=aa302502541127984363828
http://home.flash.net/~dwwilson/forge/fgpl.html
http://www.geocities.com/zoellerforge/
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/index.html
http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/GasForge/PropaneForge.html
http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/forges/10minfrg.htm
http://www.john-wasser.com/NEMES/MakeICR.html
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/621642/
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?threadid=47853
http://www.metalsmithinghowto.com/w...N=33227673&jsessionid=aa302502541127984363828
http://www.dfoggknives.com/forge.htm
http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21406&highlight=homemade+forge
http://www.geocities.cm/cadellyn2002/forge2.html

It's easier to do than some of the links make it out to be :)

Regards,
Greg

http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/
 
Hi all.

Here is a design and guide on a small 2 brick forge I am planning to copy :)
2 brick forge

There are other tutorials on the British Blades forum on firebrick forges by ZDP as he has made a few now and refined them the link above is to the latest version.

The one linked above is a bit more involved than the 1 brick forge but it should last longer and have better heat distribution.

Iain
 
Very helpful information! Crossreferncing the various pictures/diagrams/descriptions, it's much clearer now. Think I'll try setting up my own burner rather than usinig a torch. Just doesn't look that hard to do. One link you supplied....

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/eellis2/EllisCustomKnifeworks/My_Homepage_Files/Page10.html

.....for refractory supplies is most useful.

Your post should be pinned to the top of a FAQ area.

Thanks....Curt

Iain

Just noticed your post...more very good info....Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top