1/16" O1 Heat Treat

Big Smitty

Big Smitty

Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
509
I am making some kitchen knives out of 1/16" O1 and wanted to get some input. What I am thinking about doing is heat treating it right after I grind the knife profile and then make the plung lines and blade bevel after heat treat. I am worried about the knife warping during heat treat. I am doing a "poor boy" heat treat in a small mapp gas forge and quenching in ATF. I know this is not the best scenario, but it is what I can afford for now and it has worked out pretty good on the other knives I have made. Thoughts?
 
Especially with the home-brew HT, you should grind all bevels and edges after HT. Be aware that .065 stock will heat up and cool down fast and it may be difficult to get it properly soaked and quenched without some warping/twisting.
Good luck.
Stacy

BTW, you didn't ask, but I would switch to 1084 with your setup. The kitchen knives will be just as good, and the HT will be better and easier.
Stacy
 
Thanks you for the reply Stacy and the recommendation on the 1084. I have not used 1084 yet since O1 is easier to get for me locally from Fastenall. I will see about getting some 1084 though. To this point all I have used is 1/8" O1 and it has done well in my cheapo heat treat except for one blade I ground too thin proir to heat treat. I already have the 1/16" O1 so i will try it and if it doesn't work I'll try the 1084. Thanks!
 
I used some 1/16 O1 for kitchen knives and some neck knives. Keep the blade in the heat while you get it adjusted in your tongs. You still need a short soak time even with it that thin. go straight in to your quench ether point first or edge first, but straight in.
 
I've done some small knives with 0.625" 01. I like to put a piece of black iron pipe in my 2 brick forge and place the blade inside. It evens out the heating . I quench in used PEP boys 5w-20w motor oil (only 3000 miles in a minivan:D) at about 140F.

Ric
 
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