1/8 1084 Honesuki design

M

Maelstrom78

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Sep 21, 2013
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I've got 2 AEB-L chef knives ready to send in for heat treat. I've got the urge to get a few more blades ready though before I send them in to be treated.

I have some 1/8 x 1.5" 1084 that I can heat treat myself. I previously made a camp type knife with 1/8 x 1.5 inch 1084.

I don't really like it for an all-around kitchen/camp knife however as with straight down chopping my knuckles will hit the cutting surface. Plus I made the handle too short at only 4 and a half inches max.

So to try out a new style before I cut it out of AEB-L (I have .110 and .070 ) I would like to try a honesuki type kitchen knife out of 1084 before trying it in AEB-L. Below is my sketch along with the previous camp knife. It is difficult to see but the sketch knife edge does have a slight belly to it.

1tahld.jpg


Here is a version with just straight edge with no belly at all.
dyvbc6.jpg



I would like to try it with .110 1084 but .125 is the thinnest I could order from Aldo.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Upside down? Yes I see what you mean. Mildly embarrassing.
jin9xw.jpg


I lose 1.25" of cutting edge but at 1.5" width there might be nothing to do about that.
 
I want to keep enough of an angle with 1.5" stock that I can chop straight down without hitting the cutting board with my knuckles. That way I can save my more expensive 2" stock for chef knives. That was my thought.
 
use hidden tang construction so that you can offset handle from blade and gain some knuckle clearance. Of the videos I have seen of a honyaki in use , knuckle clearance doesnt seem that big a deal though.
 
Hmm it looks like that width is over 1.5". I'll make some wood or 1/16 mild steel mockups and play around with it a bit.

I'll post any revelations!
 
Maelstrom78 said:
I want to keep enough of an angle with 1.5" stock that I can chop straight down without hitting the cutting board with my knuckles. That way I can save my more expensive 2" stock for chef knives. That was my thought.
Click to expand...

Hmm, makes some sense, however you do know that a honesuki is a boning knife and not made to be chopping straight down on a board right? and that most f the cutting should be done out on the curve of the front half of the blade?
 
Yes I guess if I bastardize it too much it's no longer a honesuki. I'll stick with the traditional design. Thanks!
 
Fresh out of the oven.
2kioma.jpg


Thanks KG the angle on the paper would not have looked right.

Thanks Mr. Burke and Mr. Apelt as well for the advice.
 
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