1"x30" grinder users

Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
2,259
OK, just got done playing with my 2x72 for the first time.

All I have to say is for those of you like me hwo were putting off this purchase, don't. If you really expect to make knives, even just like one a month, this will make your life SO much easier. All I have is the basic grizzly, and it was just amazing watching that steel disapeear. And the 9" platen just doesn't even compare to that little thing I used to have on the HF 1x30. I have no problem with having started with the 1x30, I couldn't afford the 2x72 at the time, and this was the best way, but it was definitely worth skrimping and saving to pick up the grizzly.

So just repeating what I heard a million times. Dno't think you can really understand till you try it yourself.
 
Yeah, I ordered one of the HF 1X30's when I thought I wanted to give making a shot. Used it maybe a week before finding a used Bader II, and will not go back.:) The small grinder still see limited usage when the wife is grinding the edges of sheathes, or I'm dovetailing bolsterson the disk.
 
I still do most of the finishing on handles on my 1 x 30. I gone thru 4 sets of bearing on the idler pulleys.
 
I just got my new 2003 Grizzly cataloge today and the first thing I did was look at that grinder. I'm going to have the bucks for it this week and, even though I was bending toward making one, I'm pretty sure it will be the Griz and hope to order it last part of this week. I have ground all ten knives on the HF 1 X 30 and hope number eleven is on the 2 X 72. I've paid enough dues on the 1 X 30 and its time for a 2 X 72. I'll get the 10 inch wheel too! So there:) .

Roger
 
get the 2x72 from norman coote or build one. because most of the people that get the griz have to rebuild it anyway!
 
Rhino,

I mentioned that I would get the 10 inch wheel but do I really need that for hollow grinding hunting size knives (3 1/4 to 4 inch blades)? I don't want to get one that large if I won't use it. As far as a grinder goes I've been looking at both the Coote and the Grizzly. I'll have to find a motor for the Coote. I've thought strongly, too, of building one but don't want to spend the time away from grinding blades.

Roger
 
roger, i don't hollow grind offen, but a 10" wheel will give you a taller grind. as far as the motor for the coote i found a 1750rpm motor for 50 bucks and a couple of step pulleys from the hardware store and had a adjustable speed pro grade grinder for about $500.00 if you buy the griz and rebuilt it you will have about the same into it for a fixed speed grinder.
 
Rhino (and others),

How much do I want to reduce the speed on a two speed system using pulleys? Should my slow speed be 1/2 of the 1750 RPM or should it be faster than 1/2?? Its easy to go 1 to 2 for half speed and also easy to go 1 to 1 1/2 for 2/3rd speed (or would that be 3/4 speed?). Any how, I've been running at 3450 RPM on this 1 X 30 and don't know what I want in a real grinder yet but would like to do it right the first time if I'm to half way make one.

I'm leaning heavy towards the Coote again.

Thanks;

Roger
 
If you can hold out rlinger, I'm testing out a 2hp variable speed DC motor setup for about $200. All the parts are available from 'normal' suppliers.

All the parts aren't here yet, but I'll let you know when it's running.

Also cool is it's a dual shaft motor, so I can have a buffer/disc on the other side.

Steve

PS, nothing wrong with the Grizzly either. J Neilson makes some beautiful stuff on his.
 
Steve,

Sounds real good. I was wondering if a man could find a 1 to 2 hp DC motor at a cost we can afford. Would you mind telling us where to get the motor?? Does it come with the speed control or can you get the motor without that?? I can make a DC motor speed control or AC motor speed control if the motor is not of the induction type.
 
That looks good. I have not looked closely at the controller site yet though. It might be that you could cut RPM at the contact wheel down first with a pulley. That way you could run closer to the motor's full voltage limit and perhaps also provide greater torque by virtue of the reduction. The more voltage the less current you need per hp as hp is rated in watts (power rated in watts). One hp = 746 watts in electrical power. And, as an example 90 volts at 10 amps = 900 watts, less than 1 1/4 hp. Fourty volts would require much more current to achieve the 900 watts. This may benefit your controller, which I think you mentioned it was a little light on current capability (I may have mis-read that though and really should study the site you refered us to). As for heat sinking: as large a piece of heavy aluminum tight against the current handling electronic device (I suspect a power transistor(s) as opposed to a SCR in this case) with a small fan (a CPU fan from an old personal computer should do here - 12 volt fan) blowing upon the heat source would suffice. If you can mill cooling fins into the heat sink that would help too as long as there is boss enough thickness at the base of the heat sink where it contacts the heat source. In this instance you can place the fan on the fins.

Thanks for the info. I do not know for sure yet how I will go but I am leaning heavily toward an enclosed 1725 RPM AC motor with pulleys for speed control.

Roger
 
Hey Joel,
I'm glad you like that Grizzly. I have to ship that steel can to you sometime. :) I'm going to try to do it this week. I had a 1x42 before I had that Grizzly. Huge difference isn't it.

Regards
 
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