10 and 11 - Chef's and Gyuto

D

Don Nguyen

Joined
Oct 4, 2011
Messages
1,043
I posted these in a few other places, but I guess I forgot to show them here. So here they are, two new ones, a 210mm laser chef's with black micarta handle and 210mm k-tip gyuto with desert ironwood and buckeye burl inlay.


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that is some fine , unique work. Shows some real character. What do you use to get your signature?
 
Thanks timos! I've been using nail polish and saltwater, but the saltwater has been too "bubbly" and unpredictable, so it gets sloppy at times =/ I've had some OK luck with it usually but it's time to get some proper electrolyte.

The nail polish is a little tricky to sign too, so I might try an industrial paint pen (which is the original technique I saw here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...des-(My-way)?highlight=industrial+paint+etch)
 
Those reaaly look good Don. I may try that signature trick.... :)

I really like the "beveled" handle shapes. Is the K-tip assymentrical or is that a trick of the photo. Either way I like it.


Barry
 
Looking good, Don. My advice is to e-mail Ernie Grospitch and get some stencils. Money well spent.
 
Thanks everyone!

Thicknesses for the K-Tip:
  • Spine at Choil - 0.130"
  • Spine 1" from tip - 0.040"
  • Edge before sharpening - 0.003"

For the Chef's:
  • Spine at Choil - 0.125"
  • Spine 1" from tip - 0.025"
  • Edge before sharpening - 0.003"

Both knives are ground slightly asymmetric for a right hander, but not overly drastic.

And I really do need to get some stencils from Ernie. Those will be included in my next purchases.
 
Great looking blades Don. Really like the grind and the angles on the handles is excellent. Any tips for doing the handles like that you care to share.
 
They are 1084 Erdbeereis.

Thanks quint. I don't really have any real tips, but I can at least go through what my mind is thinking when I'm making them.

Here is an overview for the steps I take. I forgot to draw an arrow indication where it is, but the blade will be pointing to the left (-y). Essentially I square off the handle, grind in bevels until I get a diamond-ish shape, and then grind in the tapers.

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Here I badly drew the bottom of the handle, so you can see how the semi-curved bottom works. Near the choil it is flat, but gradually goes round towards the butt. It's hard to describe, but I'm kind of doing a sweeping movement on the grinder from one of the diamond faces to the bottom flat.

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A picture of my previous knife shows it a little:

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I hope those helped visualizing at least somewhat.
 
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