1050 quenching question...

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Oct 25, 2002
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I just bought some 1/4 inch 1050 (C .52) and am looking to make a bowie with a 9" blade. My questions are: can I oil quench 1050, or is it better to water quench this steel?.......and, what temp should I draw at?
 
We have lots of 1050 here in my shop so,years ago, I made a blade and quenched in water and it broke in a number of pieces. Since I have made at least 20 more knives from the same material and used commerical quenching oil and not even a crack.:D
 
Yes, I have had a few 1050 crack in a water quench.
The only point I can see in the water quench of that steel is to be shooting for a hamon line in the sides of the blade.

But I think if I were to try another water quench I would do a interupted quench.
 
That is not a very common steel used by knifemakers so I doubt anyone has used olive oil to quench it. Most likely olive oil will be fine, give it a try on a scrap piece first if you're hesitant. Pre-heat the oil to at or around 130 degrees.
 
Olive oil should work. I use canola oil because it has a high flash point and costs less. I think olive oil will probably turn rancid in fairly short order.

Gene
 
Also, if i am not mistaken, on a long blade oil will make it curve downward into the quench (kinda like a kukri), and water makes them cur upward (like a Katana). Just thought i would pass that along in case you don't get exactly what you are wanting when you quench. ;)
 
I just bought some 1/4 inch 1050 (C .52) and am looking to make a bowie with a 9" blade. My questions are: can I oil quench 1050, or is it better to water quench this steel?.......and, what temp should I draw at?

I would use oil quenching for this steel. I use the 1095,1084, and 1075.

Barkes:)
When I leave this world I would like to be known by the one who make the knives from start to finish.

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Quench it in the fastest oil you can find, preferrably a professional quenching oil.
 
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