1075 steel

Mike Krall said:
Yay, Dan!!!

It's certainly true O1 (or any hypereutectoid) needs to be dealt with in a particular way and it's certainly true doing it is a lot easier with salt tanks, a kiln, or a temp. controlled forge. It is also true most folks who understand the necessity of what has to be done with O1 and who don't have those tools, won't use the steel... but none of that has anything to do with whether it can be done.

Mike
Click to expand...
I guess I missed your point :confused:. O1 is very easy to H/T
even though I have an Evenheat oven .
I'd rather use O/A to h/t if I'm using O1 in a blade 5" or less

there's more satisfaction for me H/Ting with O/A,
I don't use Salts. right now anyway :)
 
1075 is a great steel for hawks, hatchets, choppers of all shapes and sizes. If I couldnt get 5160 I'd go for 1075. Dan I certainly understand your point and I did start out with O1 to make my first blades becuase of it's ability to make a servicable knife with a mediocre heat treatment. (ATF) I have since moved on to a steel (W1) that is better suited to my level of heat treatment technology (Water/Brine) and It's also cheaper than O1 but I have to pound it flat.(hammer therapy!) Getting back to O1, That stuff will rust before your very eyes! I could not believe how fast it rusted! I mean 5 minutes after a dunk in the cooling tank while grinding and it was spotting red! Also what's "O/A"?

Jason
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top