1080 quenching help for sword?

C

CharlieX

Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
10
Hey guys, good to be back. Quick question...

Will a sword made from 1080 quench ok in transmission fluid? and if so, will it have a bend to it? (1/8" thick steel, blade about 2 1/2 feet long)

and... what container do you guys use to put your ATF in to quench?

(sorry if this should have ended up in the sword section.)
 
Last edited:
Dude, save yourself money and save your lungs, if you are not going to use real quenching oil, use canola or other vegetable oil heated to 130f. last I looked ATF was several dollars per quart for the cheap stuff which adds up quickly when you are trying to submerge a sword, the smoke and vapors from quenching are toxic as hell, it flashes up in flames dangerously when the hot blade enters it and it doesn't quench as well as vegetable oil. let alone engineered quenchant. If you buy it right you can get vegetable oil for under $10.00 per gallon, (or free if you use used fry oil)

Your wallet and lungs

-Page
 
ok.. duly noted. I'll try to find some cooking oil. will the blade curve without using clay, though?
 
If you mean sori, then, no, the blade shouldn't curve if it is just straight quenched without clay.

With a 1080 sword, use a tall tank that is at least 6" deeper than the sword. A piece of 4-6" pipe with a cap welded on the end works well. Make a sturdy stand for the tank. It needs to be rock solid when quenching.You may need a platform or sturdy steps stool to stand on while quenching a long sword.Quench the whole sword. Stopping at the tang can lead to the sword breaking later on. Harden it all and then draw the tang back to the desired softness with a torch. Practice the quench transfer several times with a cold blade. You will be moving a very hot, fairly bendable object while holding it by the thinnest and weakest part. Try and keep it as vertical as possible.Don't swing it wildly, just move it smoothly. Run it straight down into the tank, and lift and lower it steadily for about 10 seconds. Then pull it out, wipe it off, quickly straighten any bends, and put it back to finish cooling. temper as soon as possible.
If at all possible use a proper quench oil. If not, use canola or peanut oil. Motor oil and ATF are not suitable.
 
go to some restaurants in your area. I know at ours we change the oil in our fryers every 3 days. Ask for the Ex Chef or owner, and see if they will let you take some used fryer oil.

They need to pay to have the oil taken, you might be able to strike a deal where they will let you have 5 or 10 gallons.

Just a thought.
 
If i use clay, and 1080, in vegetable oil, 8" diameter tank, straight up and down.. oil at 130 degrees or so, can i expect a curve?
 
Filling out your profile is always a nice thing to do if you want specialized info.

There are so many variables in quenching a sword that it is hard to say what will and won't happen. However, a clay quenched blade in medium speed oil will curve less than one quenched in fast oil or brine.
 
Fair enough. Thanks for all your help guys. Just trying to avert a pending disaster.. Don't want to shatter a blade. I'll try veggie oil for the first go-round with the 1080, and hope for a slight curve.

Again, i appreciate the fast support from the members here.
 
Charlie
I am not sure what you want...a curve or not a curve.
In the first post, I though you were trying to avoid a curve.
Now I see you want one.
On most posts, it is best to give the particulars, such as steel type, blade style ( bowie,sword, etc.), Blade dimensions and thickness, quenching media and style, etc.

For obtaining a curve ( sori), just clay coat the spine and sides as for a hamon. This should develop as much sori as the blade will get in the oil you use. If you are doing a katana or wakizashi, the traditional quench trough is going to yield the max sori. However a cylinder tank is suitable. Don't waste any time while plunging the blade.

Read up on yaki-ire. This will help with your quenching techniques whether or not you use brine or the traditional methods. On a future blade, you will have to try the traditional yaki-ire. The results are worth the trouble ( and the heartache) encountered in the learning curve.
 
As bad as I hate to ask.....How would machine oil perform as a quench medium. My neighbor asked me today if I want a couple gallons since he was changing it in his mill and lathe?

Brad
 
CharlieX said:
Fair enough. Thanks for all your help guys. Just trying to avert a pending disaster.. Don't want to shatter a blade. I'll try veggie oil for the first go-round with the 1080, and hope for a slight curve.

Again, i appreciate the fast support from the members here.
Click to expand...

the point will most likely drop and you will have a curve that is opposite of what you want.
 
I'm thinking of getting some 5/32" steel for the project instead.. and I don't see much 1080 steel in that thickness. What other steels could work for this?.. grinding to shape, oil hardening, clay treated, 2 foot long blade.

thanks again everyone.
 
I would use an oil hardening steel, like O-1 or L-6 and put the sori in in the shaping stage. That way you know what it will be. You won't get a hamon, so forget the clay.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top