1084 for handplane blade? Selectively heat treat blade edge only?

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Feb 5, 2013
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I'm slowly collecting the tools for woodworking, making all I can. To date I've been buying blades and making the planes. Money being hard to find, I've been reading up here on making my own blades. I could get 4 feet of 10** than I'd spend on a single blade, but I'd still require all the setup to make the blade. I have at least as much fun making the tools as I have making stuff with the tools, so I'm not looking for an "easy" shortcut, just a cheaper and more fun way of acquiring some plane, chisel and carving blades than just buying them.

I've been reading through the stickies and other posts and would like a reality check at this point.

I'd love to work my way up to a proper setup, but does it sound silly to start by getting some 1080 or 1084 and treat just the cutting edge, using a torch or a hole-in-ground forge? I'd make a two brick forge or the like along the way, but am curious about the lower bound of simplicity and cost to start with. Many blades, especially those in antique planes, are laminated and just have high carbon steel along the cutting edge - seems to me this would accomplish something similar. Would the same approach work for chisels? (over time I'd grind and sharpen past the treated area, but would have a decent forge by then to redo it)

I'd love to make the shoulder and rebate planes I need, along with a number of chisels I don't have. I could get a lot of blades out of 3" by 48"
Most good aftermarket plane blades have a hardness of around 60-62. I see them made from all sorts of steels but most commonly O1 and A2. I haven't seen any made from 1084 but I suspect that is because anyone who sells them knows enough to get the most out of other steels, while I'm looking for making something myself that will work well ("well" defined here as "much better than the awful stock blade new stanleys come with" - I have one such blade and I swear I can still make out a hint of the label from the tuna can it was made from).

I'm stuck on 1084 simply because I keep reading here that it is the easiest steel to decently heat treat in a very simple manner, not because it would make the "best" steel for the blades. I guess it comes down to: would it be an appropriate steel (edge holding, ease of sharpening) and would the above approach suck too much to bother with?

Thank you!
 
1095 or W2 would be better for a plane blade, but 1084 will make a perfectly fine one.

I would fully harden it, though.

Filling out your profile might help solve several of the problems with steel type and HT.

When you get fairly accomplished at making planes and blades, using Hitachi blue paper water hardening steel can make a really high quality plane blade.
 
1084 makes perfectly acceptable plane blades, I've used for wood working tool before. Doesn't hold an edge quite as long as D2 or A2, but it is quicker to sharpen.

Filling out your profile will help us know if there is someone close by that can hlp you with the HT.


-Xander
 
Thank you both. That's encouraging to read.

I've still got a lot of reading to do - I converted a number of stickies and other threads and loaded them onto my reader to read tonight (hate reading on computer screen) but this tells me I can probably get something I'll be happy with quite easily, then learn enough to both no longer be happy with those results and be able to get better ones :) If I find I can do this I'll certainly build a small or tiny forge.

I saw one post that said Hitachi blue paper steel cost $75/lbs with a min 1000lbs order... of course I also saw another saying it was $7, and others implying it is a mystical beast. I do know my single Japanese plane and Japanese chisel each have fantastic blades, at least compared to the not large sample I can compare with. They both sharpen up so well and keep their edge nicely.

Off to do more reading - thanks again!
 
Don't know if you ever make it over the pass out here to the valley, but if you do I would be more than happy to help. I actually am planning to make my own spoke shave soon.


-Xander
 
Hitachi steel can be ordered from several European woodworking suppliers. Workshop Heaven is one in the UK, and Dictum is in Germany. Dictum carries more knife stuff. Shipping is surprisingly reasonable. The only problem is that 30mm by 5.5mm is usually the widest/thickest available, You might be able to order it in a different width and thickness than they stock by calling them.
 
Thanks for the info on Hitachi Steel, I'll know to look back at this thread when I get to that point.
Xander, that is kind of you! I very rarely get that way, but will look you up if I do as I'd love to take you up on it, even just a quick stop by to see your set up. A wood bodied replacement spokeshave is on my list, though I have a horrid no-brand one of modern (as in bad) production that was the first plane I fettled into working shape. It does work, but the blade is awful, I did a poor job, it's not work buying a replacement blade for, and I've wanted a woodie spoke shave for a long time... if I'm going to make a blade, might as well make the rest instead of sticking it in that awful one I have.

Please show your work! sorry, ex-teacher, but I mean it, I'd really like to see what you come up with.
 
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