1084 for kitchen knives?

I ordered a proper cross peen hammer and picked up a 12 pound sledgehammer head for a post anvil - not ideal but MUCH better than what I've used so far (don't ask). When the hammer arrives I'm going to give it my best shot. I have the 1084 as I mentioned but it makes a lot more sense to forge than do stock removal because it is 3/16 thick. Good for woodworking, bad for kitchen. I could just buy more in thinner stock but forging is too fun.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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By the way, I love this knife. I like the simplicity and clean lines. I attempted to forge something somewhat similar but pre-bent the blade down too far, it didn't curve back up enough when I forged the bevels. I put it aside until I have a larger surface to forge on and some actual tongs and can bend it up safely.
 
Below is a basic carbon steel usage guide for carbon steel in the kitchen:

[video=youtube;tza5pymb5yg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tza5pymb5yg[/video]

I personally don't go to the extent that Jon does, but, I still wipe my carbon blades frequently, less so once a strong patina builds.

Although I have never used 1084 in a kitchen knife before, there is no reason it would not make a great blade. I have knives in that range, one in 1070 a few in 1095 and don't have many issues.
 
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