There was a time when the difference between CRA vs HRA was a big deal. Nowadays most all knife steel suppliers sell it in the right form and fully spheroidized, so just order 1084 from Aldo, USA Knifemakers, Alpha, etc.
The HT is very simple for 1084, and requires taking the steel to an even 1475-1500F range. A normal propane torch will be a bit small for this unless it is a high BTU turbo torch. MAPP gas would be good to use instead of propane. For smaller blade, a good propane torch will work. The one many people used to use was called a JTH-7. There is a newer version now. I am sure someone will post what torch is the current favorite.
Once the blade has had the basic bevels shaped and sanded to 400 grit ( Not a finished blade yet. The edge should be about 30 thousandths thick, or about half as thick as a dime.):
Heat the steel until it gets red and start checking with a magnet. A welding magnet stuck on something next to where you are heating the blade is the simplest way. When the steel gets to just about 1400F, it will suddenly stop being magnetic, and the magnet won't attract it anymore when you touch the blade to it. Heat the blade about one shade of brighte red and when the edge part ( or the whole blade) is at that color, immediately quench in at least a gallon of oil. You want to use canola oil or a commercial HT oil. Do not use motor oil or ATF, as you see on You-Tube all the time.
Hold the blade in the oil for 30 seconds and then let cool in the air. I just stick the tang on the magnet and let it cool. Once cool, wash off and bake in the kitchen oven at 400F for an hour. Take out and cool off in running water in the sink, and put back in the oven for a second hour. Cool off again with water and the blade is ready to finish.
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