1084

the HT is very similar to 1095. Just get it up to critical temp or non magnetic, hold for 2-4 minutes then quench. Then temper at 400' twice for two hours.

every ones answer is a little different but this works well for me. For the quench you can use veggie or atf oil but if you want the best result I recommend some parks #50 from Patrick here on the forums.
 
If you plan on using much 1085/1095 steel for knife making, definitely consider ordering a pail of park's 50. It is designed for a fast cool that is required by these steels, approaching the speed of a water quench without the same extreme shock to the steel.

Temp to shoot for is around 1475 if you're able to monitor it. Otherwise, just above non-magnetic should work.

--nathan
 
right now im tempring in my forge its an older propane model which doesn't like to run much below 2000 degrees how do i hold temp for the 2 -4 min nesisary?
 
That's gonna be hard to hold temp in a forge running that hot. Your best bet, using what you have, is to quench just after reaching non magnetic, as you want to avoid overheating the steel. Move the blade around within the forge to avoid hot spots and try to get the heat as even as possible. Of course, temperature regulation is critical in heat treating but with a fairly simple steel like 1084, you'll get decent results with what you have. If you plan on expanding to other steels, definitely consider a oven, a temp regulated forge, or send out you blades for heat treatment.

BTW, for sake of clarifying further discussion, the sum of the processes you go through with your steel is "heat treatment." First, you heat the blade, soak at temperature if possible after reaching austenitizing (critical) temperature. This is above non-magnetic (which is also know as the the curie point); how high above non magnetic depends on the steel. After that, you quench in water, oil, or air/aluminum plates (depending on the steel) to form martensite in the steel. This process is typically called "hardening". After that, it's into an oven for a "tempering" process to temper the newly formed martensite. This relieves high internal stresses in the steel in a controlled fashion to make the blade tougher (for instance, impact resistance) while still leaving the blade quite hard. It can also form new martensite, thus requiring a second, even a third temper depending on the steel.

I just wanted to clarify your terminology a bit to allow better discussion in the future. I'm in no way trying to be an ass, and forgive me if all of this is old hat for you.

Have fun!

--nathan
 
I agree to quench after non-mag, in a forge with little experience you're almost assured you'll overheat if you try to hold it.

I also start my temper around 350 and then scale it up, unless you know how accurate your oven is you could swing 50F either direction.
 
thanks guys most of what i know is self tought or from books aand lots of trail and error just tring to refine what i now and get better at some thing that i some times have trouble on or is some times in consistent I do have another qustion though im quench oil at the moment in corn oil is that ok and what temp should it be ( i m going to look into the parks next month cash is little short but same question on the temp for the parks quench. thanks chris
 
Chris, 1084 is a very good steel to begin learning the heat treat process. Using your forge take the steel to non-magnetic using a simple magnet to test. Be sure to have the heat on the rise before quenching. When you reach non-magnetic put the blade back in for just a count of 10 and quench. Corn oil will work, but peanut oil has a higher flash point. Try heating the oil to around 130deg. before quenching. Move the blade back and forth in the oil (not side ways). If you do an edge quench, 1084 will give some really nice transition lines.
Rick
 
Kevin Cashen put together this nice guide to Heat Treating 1084. (By the way, the unexpected question marks in the document appear to be places where someone's computer couldn't deal with the degree sign.)
 
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